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I've done some reading on how to read plugs and I feel like this is slightly lean but I'm not sure. I tried to take the best picture I could and let someone give me their opinion on it. I changed this plug right before the pull and shut it down immediately after I let off. This was 100 shot. I have it jetted at 62N 36F at 70% and have 5* pulled for now until I get my wideband in the car
Hahaha. I have one, just haven't installed it. I got the bottle warmer/heater installed this weekend. I should be able to get the A/F gauge in this next weekend.
If you must run it now you should be fine if you follow these jet sizes:
I have a 4an line. I just have a nozzle kit. The first few times I sprayed it, I used a 62N and 32F and then bumped it up to a 36F and made a hit and pulled that plug to see what it looked like. I thought the porcelain is supposed to have a yellow tint to it and the first few threads are supposed to be black? I thought it was still a little lean so I put a 38F in it today but haven't made a hit or anything. I went through 25lb of nitrous this weekend with the 62N and 36F and had no problems whatsoever. The kit I have actually recommends a 62N and a 32F together but that just seemed too small to me. I was hoping some guys would chime in about how that plug looks.
It appears to be lean and looks like you could add timing back in BUT....you need to cut the threaded portion off to expose the fuel ring to be sure. We also need to see all 8 cylinders. If it is in fact lean, you need to run it again with fresh plugs and that 38 fuel jet. Dont change the timing yet. If the 38 jet gets the fuel right, then we can reassess where you need to be on timing based on the timing mark and mph.
It appears to be lean and looks like you could add timing back in BUT....you need to cut the threaded portion off to expose the fuel ring to be sure. We also need to see all 8 cylinders. If it is in fact lean, you need to run it again with fresh plugs and that 38 fuel jet. Dont change the timing yet. If the 38 jet gets the fuel right, then we can reassess where you need to be on timing based on the timing mark and mph.
I had a 36 in with 5* pulled on that plug. I just don't know how or where to run and stop and pull all 8 plugs. It takes me forever to change plugs
Hahaha I'm sure it does! If that damn EGR flange wasn't on the passenger side header then it would be a ton easier. I've debated pulling the headers out and cutting it off but I'm sure I'll have the motor out again at some point so I'll just do it then. I know that you're technically supposed to pull all 8 plugs, but what if I pulled 6? The back 2 on the passenger side are the 2 that take forever. All the others can be changed in 30 minutes or less
If you pull 8 on the shots you want to run and see what cylinder is your worst one Maybe you could just pull one every time instead of 8. If nothing on the motor or Nitrous kit changes that should be good enough but maybe others have better reasons not to?
I just don't know how or where to run and stop and pull all 8 plugs. It takes me forever to change plugs
If you don't have a drag strip in your area, this can be a tough one. You have to find that random road out in the middle of no where in an area that never got developed.
Don't resort to pulling one plug or only the plugs that are easy to get to. That's a very bad habit that you definitely don't want to form if you're a nitrous junkie. I have a C5 Vette these days, obviously not an F body so it's different, but I can swap plugs in my sleep. It's just something you get good at after time from doing it a lot but a big part of that is having the right tools. Buy multiple spark plug sockets, with and without the rubber inserts, a lot of different extensions, swivel adapters, different ratchets, maybe get an electric rechargeable one. You have to find that right combination of "socket, extension (or no extension at all), ratchet" that works best and it wont necessarily be the same on every cylinder. I've found one particular spark plug socket (no rubber insert) and a long thin handled ratchet that I like to use but I have to switch between no extension at all and then two different extensions for different cylinders. It just becomes habitual and you do it without even thinking about it like anything else you get good at.
Here are pictures of a range of lean/rich fuel reading....you need to look at the base of the porcelain where it curves to meet the outer metal case of the plug. This is where the unburnt fuel collects and leaves deposits on the plug. Darker the ring richer the mixture. You are looking for a light change of color while maintaining control of the heat in the chamber.
Here are pictures of a range of lean/rich fuel reading....you need to look at the base of the porcelain where it curves to meet the outer metal case of the plug. This is where the unburnt fuel collects and leaves deposits on the plug. Darker the ring richer the mixture. You are looking for a light change of color while maintaining control of the heat in the chamber.
I'm aware of having to cut off the threads but just haven't done it. Like I said earlier, I haven't had a chance to make a hit and then pull all of my plugs. It's a job to get #6 and #8 out, even with a plethora of different ratchets, sockets, swivels, extensions, etc. I am more than likely going to install the A/F gauge in it this weekend so I at least know what that reading is just so I know I'm not running it terribly rich or lean
I've never used an air/fuel gauge to tune any nitrous car. It's a waste of time. The plugs will tell you the story you need to hear. A wideband will not.
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Plug reading 
