derek_silvy

Alright, I'm looking at my next mod options. I think the nitrous is worth a look.

How bad is spraying a 75 shot into the well maintained engine with the below mods @ almost 80K.

Say I sprayed this 75 shot 5 times a week. Would it last for a while.... or at that rate would I have a ruined motor and tranny after the first week?

Point me towards some kits please.

blacktransam

iTrader: (13)

a 75 shot wont hurt nothing... and **** only 5 times a week?? i've sprayed 5 times a day on my 150

Frans96SS

iTrader: (15)

i spray mine so many times i cant even count and it still pulls like 70-75 psi oil pressure on cold starts and get about 60 normal driving im on a 175 shot now ive been spraying 150 for like 2 years now until a month ago i went to 175

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

I've been spraying my motor since it had 3,000 miles on it. This year alone I've put about 160lbs of nitrous through it and everything is just fine.

derek_silvy

Seriously?!

I always see stuff like "n20 blew up my motor."

I thought the stuff was just like acid to the engine.... it was slowly gonna melt away. Holes in pistons, lost compression, high likely hood of catastrophic detonation, etc.

Now... I'm on the iron block truck motor..... does that change your responses any?

screamin' 85 z

Some low quality kits have given Nitrous a VERY bad reputation. I'm partial to NX because I am a dealer, so that's all i can speak for, but the main reasons that some other kits are so detrimental to an engine are 1- poor Nitrous-fuel atomization resulting in fuel puddling in the intake, as well as some cylinders receiving only nitrous and missing a firing cycle, or going WAY lean.. And 2- Cheap, low quality solenoids that "chatter" because they are cheap and undersized. NX's nozzle designs (as well as the MAF and other kits) have mastered fuel/nitrous atomization so well, that engine failures resulting directly from the use of their kits are few and far between. It is true, however, that one can never have too many safety features!! (fuel pressure cut-off..bottle heater..window switch etc) As an example, one of my customers has a bone stock Mustang with the Hypereutectic pistons, and has run over 35 bottles through it with the 150 pills in.. This thing is stock down to the manifolds and air box.. it put down 344 / 450 RWHP/TQ...NX is amazing!! And Nitro Dave does a SUPER job taking care of his customers, and offers excellent support and great prices!! It's good to see another dealer help make such a good name for NX. So don't be fooled by "look alikes" or those that tell you that their products are identical..They are NOT..

blacktransam

iTrader: (13)

i agree with about everything he just said. and no the iron block doesn't change my state of mind.. hell i sorayed my 3.4 v6 i had

slik98z

Nitrous is only as dangerous as the moron behind the wheel. Most of these "nitrous blew up my motor" bitches are kids that wante dto run a 150 shot on a 4banger and they dont understand the concept of the jets you are given with the kit. and they dont get the need to upgrade the fuel pump and such...

Colonel has a great write up abought n2o. I was in the same boat you were, i thought nitrous was dangerous..now i've figured out its no different than a turbo or a supercharger or a h/c/i combo...its another means to get more air and fuel to make the car go faster...just this time you have a hcoice when youwant it...

a 75 shot on that block will be just fine. hell id start out with a 100 shot just cause i dont think it would matter. just get your recommended safety features. The key to making nitrous as with any mod safe for the motor is simply taking the pre-set up kit an dmaking it a full on SYSTEM. which means, from a window switch, fuel pressure safety switch, bottle warmer, wot switch, and perhaps even a fuel pump and some new injectors (stock stuff works well for a 100 and lower shot though). Its all about making all things equal and balancing it out.

I forgot to add new plugs and a step colder set of plugs would be a smart investment as well. Read up a little more, it is quite a fascinating process, n2o that is.

Best of luck man.
Travis

derek_silvy

Wow... I may just do some n2o instead of the stall now.

I would like to explore other companies than NX. Can some1 please suggest other companies that make **SAFE** nitrous oxide kits and where are they available at a good price? All I want is a 75 shot, so I don't need some super top of the line racing kit.

And I hear that wet is safer than dry and vice versa, can some1 please explain that?

derek_silvy

slik.... is it really no different than any other power adder. How is it that nitrous makes that extra power? I just thought that it was a super-volative substance that created more violent explosions than regular gasoline.

And please explain this window switch and other safety features.

How long is a tranny with just a vette servo and upped line pressure gonna last spraying a 75?

StupidFast

Put a 100 on it. My buddy's truck ran a 8.4 in the 1/8th with that cam, headers, and a small stall. We also found out that moving the shifts from 6,100 to 5,800 picked up a tenth.
Get a pressure guage and keep an eye on it. If you are not careful in Texas you will open the bottle in the summer and have over 1200psi, which would not be good. Low pressure is also not a good thing.

derek_silvy

Thanks for the info!

With all that said, how is this kit:
http://www.coldfusionnitrous.net/ls1.html

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

Try giving Nitro Dave a call and just speaking with him about nitrous kits. He carries NX, TNT and NOS products so he can set you up with whatever meets your needs

Nitrous Outlet

blkZ28spt

You need to do research! Colonel's tech files were mentioned, get a hold of those. I'll start you off on really basic info. Nitrous, N20, is ~36% oxygen by weight. It has a higher % oxygen than atmospheric air. It is also much much more dense as well as cold, and basically just fits a LOT of extra air into the motor. Same as any other mod for power, MORE AIR IN! The car then adds extra fuel to make use of the added air.


Edit: extra fuel is added by car with a dry kit, technically, a wet kit has a fuel solenoid that supplies the extra fuel.

slik98z

you can easily refer to a nitrous system as "atmosphere in a bottle". in a nut shell you are injecting more oxygen into your intake track, with a dry kit, the MAF reads it and tells teh fuel pump to deliver more fuel via injectors, with a wet kit, the nitrous system provides its on fuel via solenoid attached to teh fuel rail (please someone correct me if im wrong i've only been using for about 8 months now).

with a supercahrger what are you doing? gathering air, supercharging it (making that **** denser) and ramming it into your intake, more air, system provides more fuel, what do you get...more zoom. in a nutshell of course...

turbo chagers...take exhaust from one of the headers turbine spins it and throws it into (usually an intercooler first) the intake track...system adds more fuel...this makes the car go faster.

now with those two you have to tap the oil pan to keep the **** lubed up and turning...n2o you dont. my camaro for me is my daily driver...i dont need 450 rwhp all the time as i have to take the z through rain, wind, snow, etc. and the 340rwhp na i have i can handle in the elements. but when its sunny, when i had the dry shot i ran with a 125 shot. i made 99 rwhp and gobs more torque. im currently waiting on a nx wet kit.

If you want my opinions of coldfusion, nitro daves, tsp or anyo f the other sponsers that sell nitrous kits, pm me. I dont want to start a flame war on any of these companies. But i've had good dealings with some, great dealings with one in particular and i have had not so good dealings with two.

I dont believe it is the kit itself that makes it safe. Testing everything two-four times before you use it goes a long way. having fail safe's such as fuel pressure safety switch (cuts off the n2o if fuel pressure drops), window switch (allows you to set when your n2o comes on at a certain rpm 3k rpms is the norm), and a bottle warmer (as u use the bottle the pressure drops which can affect atomization if im not mistaken, which in turn will lower the performance of the system as a whole, the warmer keeps the pressure up to insure the best possible psi).

Colonels information is very VERY imformative. read up on it. Also check out www.howstuffworks.com. this site is very informative about how nitrous, and other forced induction kits work.

so...with my novel i just wrote, take what you now know, read up on colonels stuff, then check out howstuffworks, and contact a sponser of chocie at the right and have them help decide what kit would be right for you!
T

5POINT7

Man, you guys got me wanting a nitrous kit now! Great info in this thread.

blacktransam

iTrader: (13)

Some one once told me "Nitrous is like a hot girl with STD's, You know you want to hit it but your scared of the consequences"

The first time i sprayed mine i was shaking i didn't know what to expect.. then the next line i'd heard came in to play." This stuff is like crack to your motor... hit that button and smile from ear to ear as the person you were racing looks at your tail lights and goes... What the !!!! was that"

Once you have your complete kit installed and done right You will love it and it won't hurt anything. It might even be worth it to put it on a wide band and double check everything. Remember thanks to that great movie series that came out N2O has a very quiet following.. theres more people with it than you think and most people don't expect it during a race. A fairly well hidden kit can really make people scratch their heads.

Just take your time do it right and really **** some people off when you call them out in your pickemup truck

Lostpatrolman

iTrader: (3)

what is the safest type of nitrous to run? Wet or Dry? How good is direct port?

slik98z

lostpatrolman...any kit *can* be safe. The key to making any power adder safe is having the right peices to teh system.

Dry kits use your maf to read more air, which tells teh computer to draw more fuel which goes through your injectors...if a fuel injector is to fail...well, kaput.

Wet kits use a fuel soleniod attched to the fuel rail, sow hen the nitrous goes in the kit draws more fuel with it and it mixes somewhere behind the maf. you get more power with this set up however, if something is to go wrong with teh atomization, you can get puddling of fuel in the intake...=kaboom.

So each one will have its issues. I think direct port will give you the most adjustability and power, but if im not mistaken they can be quite difficult to prepare the car for it.

its all about your selection of fail-safes. wet kits you will get more power. dry kits can make damn good power but you gotta keep the bottle pressure up higher which if not watched with a close eye can be disasterous. Look up for colonels n2o information that can explain it further.

btw...im tired of writing books bitches use the ******* search button lol
but im glad to help. i may not have used nitrous long but i think i read just about every ounce of information there is on this site before i purchased my kit and after i purchased it i re-read everything and went nuts looking elsewhere. even bought two books about it. Knowledge is everything!

Good luck!
t

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

If I understand this right, one can safely run a 60-100 shot kit safely without other engine mods. Dry is the most simple, and Direct Port is the most efficient.