MOTRUBL

Well... after deciding to do a 250 direct port shot on my Z, and discussing it with a few people, I'm beginning to wonder about traction issues. I'm an M6 (might switch to a TH400) and I'm not sure what a 250 shot will do to the tires when the window switch kicks it on. So, here's my question. Would I be best to stick with the single stage 250 shot, or keep the 100 dry that's on the car now and add a 150 TNT kit?? I figure I could add another window switch and have it come on at about 4000rpm. The TNT kit would deffinatly have it's own fuel system. Any thoughts on this.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

My vote is for the dual stage dual window switch setup. you'll launch much better. You can even set-up a first gear lock out on 2nd stage.

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

I would vote for the 2 stage dry wet too. I'm really thinking of doing that for the spring too. Are you still on the stock bottom end? If so, don't forget that the TNT 150 is actually like a 175+ at the crank. You may want to stick with a 50-75 dry and then the TNT 150.

If you really want to do a direct port set up, a progressive controler would work perfect for you.

860 Performance

iTrader: (1)

my vote- 2 stage it.

I run two stages off two buttons. Having the control of each independantly is nice. Just my 2 cents

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

I want a two stage Little smaller for me tho 100 tnt and 50 tnt ......Not really to be used at the same time unless I need them but more of the easy change from 100 50 and 150.

BMN

2 stage, or if u do jump to the DP pick up a progressive controller, but now thats a lot of extra for almost the same thing.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

i dont see how u intend to spray any more then 150 or 175 for very long on a stock bottom end car

and how does a progressive controller work?

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

Do a two stage Nate. Motor is a 408 (last buildup plans I knew) for all who are interested

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

My vote is the two stage as well. You can easily set it up to run with one stage and then for that special person hit the switch for the second stage to come on at a higher rpm.. 3krpm for the first and 4500 to 5krpm for the second..

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

Well if the 408 is built specificly for nitrous why not go with a 2 stage direct port set up. You could give it 100-150 off the line then hit it with another 200. It would obviously cost alittle more money but it would be a nice set up for sure.

Even a large single stage progressive shot might work well for you.

MOTRUBL

How would you set-up a progressive controller on a M6 and make it work properly??

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Mortrubl, checked out your site and you have one sweet ride. What's your best 1/4 time?

MOTRUBL

Thanks. Best et is an 11.70@122. This was with the 100 dry shot and no suspension mods other than QA1's, panhard rod and strut tower brace. It's capable of better, just with a different driver and better suspension. Come on 408, BIG nitrous, suspension and some ruthless gear slamming. Gotta go faster this year. The cars around here are getting FAST.

Ozz

Nate it won't help I will still win just teasing ya man.

Homeslice (tm)

My suggestion is to ditch the M6 and get the 400. Then while you're down there cut off all the wires to the window switches and install a momentary switch that you can hold in your hand.

The manual switch will allow you to control spin. If you break em loose instead of having to back out of the throttle you can just let off the button till they hook. If you get out of the throttle the run is done... period. Get some good tall tires and a moderate stall 2800-3400 (I prefer the Yank nitrous converters) and bottle it right off the line. Why would you ever want to not engage your bottle right away??? If it don't hold the tires then it's not that you are making too much power lol... you are lacking chassis setup to put it to the ground. Never curtail power to make up for a weakness in other areas. Fix the other areas.