s/c vs nitrous
s/c vs nitrous Im going to ask this here so the fi world doesnt say go s/c just because they have them 
I have been looking at a d1sc w/ all the upgrades.
I currently run 11.5 @ 125.5 on a 100 tnt shot and im not sure what hp im making but I like that time. i have seen several guys in the fi forums that are not running that good.
What im worried about is that I dont want to push 550 to my motor just to lose all kinds of hp to the blower and then put down 450rwhp.
Will the blower doing this above still be easier on the motor than a 100-150 nitrous shot?
Im also thinking turbo but they are a little expensive.
I have been looking at a d1sc w/ all the upgrades.
I currently run 11.5 @ 125.5 on a 100 tnt shot and im not sure what hp im making but I like that time. i have seen several guys in the fi forums that are not running that good.
What im worried about is that I dont want to push 550 to my motor just to lose all kinds of hp to the blower and then put down 450rwhp.
Will the blower doing this above still be easier on the motor than a 100-150 nitrous shot?
Im also thinking turbo but they are a little expensive.
11 & 7 Second Clubs
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Motorhome, Freeways, Truckstops, Pits
Tiger,
Your question has been asked hundreds of times at this site, and those threads can be located via the search function. You have many factors to consider before selecting s/c or NOS, only some of which include:
1. Out of pocket investment - ~$6,000 up front versus ~$1,000 up front and the periodic cost of NOS.
2. Streetability - Supercharger is always on versus NOS is on/off.
3. Maintenace - belts and pullies versus soleniods, bottles
4. etc
5. etc
Your question has been asked hundreds of times at this site, and those threads can be located via the search function. You have many factors to consider before selecting s/c or NOS, only some of which include:
1. Out of pocket investment - ~$6,000 up front versus ~$1,000 up front and the periodic cost of NOS.
2. Streetability - Supercharger is always on versus NOS is on/off.
3. Maintenace - belts and pullies versus soleniods, bottles
4. etc
5. etc
the fact taht the nitrous is only there when activated puts less stress on the motor IMO, as opposed to boost which is always there. personally, however, i would be running a turbo if it wasn't for the initial cost. it sure is nice to have the power always there
This is not even a valid question as the results have been proven over and over from years ago. Just look at the facts and decide how you prefer to get your performance.
Fact #1: you're at WOT for far less than 1% of your driving for a street car.
Fact #2: 500hp with N2O is at least 1 full second quicker than 500hp with a centrifugal blower.
Fact #3: blower adds weight to the front of your car...N2O adds to the rear in most cases.
Fact #4: N2O is MUCH easier to tune... no comparison. With N2O you add X% additional fuel period. With a centrifugal blower the fueling requirements change as both RPM & boost pressure changes.
Fact #5: N2O provides a very cool intake charge which naturally slows down the burn some to compensate for the increase in burn speed caused by the additional oxygen. Boost provides a much heated intake charge and requires additional cooling via extra fuel or otherwise slower burn via increased octane value.
yes boost has a few pluses of it's own, but these are some major factors here and the list can go on mostly in favor of the N2O. The biggest factor to most people is the performance and the fact that boost requires much more horsepower output to produce the same performance.
Fact #1: you're at WOT for far less than 1% of your driving for a street car.
Fact #2: 500hp with N2O is at least 1 full second quicker than 500hp with a centrifugal blower.
Fact #3: blower adds weight to the front of your car...N2O adds to the rear in most cases.
Fact #4: N2O is MUCH easier to tune... no comparison. With N2O you add X% additional fuel period. With a centrifugal blower the fueling requirements change as both RPM & boost pressure changes.
Fact #5: N2O provides a very cool intake charge which naturally slows down the burn some to compensate for the increase in burn speed caused by the additional oxygen. Boost provides a much heated intake charge and requires additional cooling via extra fuel or otherwise slower burn via increased octane value.
yes boost has a few pluses of it's own, but these are some major factors here and the list can go on mostly in favor of the N2O. The biggest factor to most people is the performance and the fact that boost requires much more horsepower output to produce the same performance.
to a few. And thanks if you tried to help This is a valid question because the FI guys seem to think that FI is easier than the nitrous on the motor..
here is the search.....https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1192106
If you think you can do better then good for you and post the link so that i man see
btw turo that was my thoughts as well untill i talked to a few people about it and they seemed to think differently, thanks for the comment tho.
Last edited by Tiger2o69; Jan 29, 2005 at 07:54 PM.
i think hes in the 12's on motor i believe.. and i dont think hes running slicks.
second stick with spray, i dont know if its 1 second faster... but for a b/o car or minor mods to the engine it seems to work better.. now if ur building an all out drag car, well a procharged car is the only one in the 7's.. and that harlan guys car was boosted as well no? i spray and will prolly keep spraying b/c my car is a daily driver and i am too broke.. for the 6k for the blower alone i can build my bottom end to run a 250 shot lol, vs having to pay 6k to run 5psi on a stock motor which may not hold up long.
second stick with spray, i dont know if its 1 second faster... but for a b/o car or minor mods to the engine it seems to work better.. now if ur building an all out drag car, well a procharged car is the only one in the 7's.. and that harlan guys car was boosted as well no? i spray and will prolly keep spraying b/c my car is a daily driver and i am too broke.. for the 6k for the blower alone i can build my bottom end to run a 250 shot lol, vs having to pay 6k to run 5psi on a stock motor which may not hold up long.
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Originally Posted by unit213
I don't think I'd ever supercharge a LS1. Go the tubo route if you want FI. I'd just stick with the nitrous if I were you unless you have about $10K to dump on a nice turbo kit.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/268406-big-price-drop-our-turbo-kits.html
thanks for the help. I know unit told me a while back to go turbo if i go FI and i have been looking at that route. However, I found this deal that looks really really good...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/265860-ati-d1-procharger-extras-sale.html
I have also been looking at that turbo kit you were talking about turo.
I love nitrous but I hate the fact that if I happen to pull up next to a quick car on the highway i have to wait like 15-20 mins for the bottle to heat up... that sucks
The turbo and s/c are always ready....Like I was saying earlier I dont like the fact that im putting a lot more hp to my motor than im actually getting out of the s/c. that must be really hard. but i have been told that nitrous is worse because the way it impacts the motor or something ? dunno im confused about that lol.....
Basically want some opinions on buying this specific s/c....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/265860-ati-d1-procharger-extras-sale.html
I have also been looking at that turbo kit you were talking about turo.
I love nitrous but I hate the fact that if I happen to pull up next to a quick car on the highway i have to wait like 15-20 mins for the bottle to heat up... that sucks
The turbo and s/c are always ready....Like I was saying earlier I dont like the fact that im putting a lot more hp to my motor than im actually getting out of the s/c. that must be really hard. but i have been told that nitrous is worse because the way it impacts the motor or something ? dunno im confused about that lol.....
Basically want some opinions on buying this specific s/c....
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by Tiger2o69
Im going to ask this here so the fi world doesnt say go s/c just because they have them
I have been looking at a d1sc w/ all the upgrades.
I currently run 11.5 @ 125.5 on a 100 tnt shot and im not sure what hp im making but I like that time. i have seen several guys in the fi forums that are not running that good.
What im worried about is that I dont want to push 550 to my motor just to lose all kinds of hp to the blower and then put down 450rwhp.
Will the blower doing this above still be easier on the motor than a 100-150 nitrous shot?
Im also thinking turbo but they are a little expensive.
I have been looking at a d1sc w/ all the upgrades.
I currently run 11.5 @ 125.5 on a 100 tnt shot and im not sure what hp im making but I like that time. i have seen several guys in the fi forums that are not running that good.
What im worried about is that I dont want to push 550 to my motor just to lose all kinds of hp to the blower and then put down 450rwhp.
Will the blower doing this above still be easier on the motor than a 100-150 nitrous shot?
Im also thinking turbo but they are a little expensive.
Ricky
You can always keep the spray and add the FI too. Ask Unit
FI is fun, but really takes a toll on the ol wallet. I'd go strictly N2O if I hadn't sunk this much $$ in it so far...so I'm adding a small shot for ***** and giggles this season.
J
FI is fun, but really takes a toll on the ol wallet. I'd go strictly N2O if I hadn't sunk this much $$ in it so far...so I'm adding a small shot for ***** and giggles this season.
J
Comming from a guy w/ the exact s/c im looking at is good info...however im getting it at around 4000 which is cheap i would think.....
If it were above 4000 i wouldnt even think about it. I definetly want to go FI eventually because of the fact of instant power rather than waiting on a heater and running out of n2o. But i have been wanting a good turbo around $4000.
I dont think my motor would hold it plus the small shot lol....
I hate decisions that cost so much money
If it were above 4000 i wouldnt even think about it. I definetly want to go FI eventually because of the fact of instant power rather than waiting on a heater and running out of n2o. But i have been wanting a good turbo around $4000.
I dont think my motor would hold it plus the small shot lol....
I hate decisions that cost so much money
Last edited by Tiger2o69; Jan 29, 2005 at 11:11 PM.
Its really a great set-up. 
11 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 304
Likes: 1
From: Boulder, Colorado
Originally Posted by Tiger2o69
bickelfirebird,
Dont take this the wrong way i really want to know. How are you still in the 12's w/ that ss?
Dont take this the wrong way i really want to know. How are you still in the 12's w/ that ss?
11 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 304
Likes: 1
From: Boulder, Colorado
[QUOTE=Tiger2o69] ...however im getting it at around 4000 which is cheap i would think...
I dont think my motor would hold it plus the small shot lol....
[QUOTE]
The $4K is just the start... Budget another $1000 at least. Keep in mind that you'll need a good dynotune, bigger injectors, etc. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, btw.
Also, keep in mind that a small shot (50-75) will help cool the charge. The cooler the charge, the less timing you'll need to pull.
The one consideration I haven't seen addressed here, is compression. Nitrous loves compression and F/I hates compression. It's just something to consider, but you can keep you car running strong naturally aspirated and then add power with the gas. IMO, the time to think about F/I is when you are rebuilding the motor. You can build it strong and you can lower the compression to boost more.
Either way you go, the cylinder pressures necessary to get to 550 at the wheels, puts you at the ragged edge of the stock bottom end. I supercharged my LT1 after I forged everything. With my stock Z06, I'm going nitrous to start. Both will get you to the same place, with different trade-offs...
I dont think my motor would hold it plus the small shot lol....
[QUOTE]
The $4K is just the start... Budget another $1000 at least. Keep in mind that you'll need a good dynotune, bigger injectors, etc. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, btw.
Also, keep in mind that a small shot (50-75) will help cool the charge. The cooler the charge, the less timing you'll need to pull.
The one consideration I haven't seen addressed here, is compression. Nitrous loves compression and F/I hates compression. It's just something to consider, but you can keep you car running strong naturally aspirated and then add power with the gas. IMO, the time to think about F/I is when you are rebuilding the motor. You can build it strong and you can lower the compression to boost more.
Either way you go, the cylinder pressures necessary to get to 550 at the wheels, puts you at the ragged edge of the stock bottom end. I supercharged my LT1 after I forged everything. With my stock Z06, I'm going nitrous to start. Both will get you to the same place, with different trade-offs...
11 & 7 Second Clubs
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,299
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From: Motorhome, Freeways, Truckstops, Pits
Originally Posted by TonyJ
He races it at Bandimere with a 10K DA... It'd be in the 11s easily at sea level. Running fast at the top of the world is tough.
