00formLs1

am planning on geting dave's halo system along with all the safety items (fpss, window switch, fuel pump.) and i had a couple of questions, would i benift from a timming tunner? i plan to run a a shot that would net me 100rwhp. the only timming tunner iv'e heard of is ramchargers, i read in another post that it has a build in window switch. my a/f from my dyno were @17 that was with a w/b that u stick in the tail pipe. i saw after my run that it wasn't even in my tail pipe but in the hose they vent the exhaust out of. so there no way those numbers are correct, my car is a full exhaust cars with a lid and bellow. it smells like gas at idle so thats why i think am a little rich instead of lean. any way just wanted to here what others had to say from experiance.

also i wanted to know if a bottle heater is nessicary where i live in the spring its 70-80 summer 100+ fall 70-80 and winter 50-60,
what is the ideal bottel pressure?
thanks
Eric

charlie c5

iTrader: (6)

Eric,

I have been dealing nitrous for more the 13 years, you should be a little rich, just to be on the safe side. If your waning to net 100 rwhp, then you'll bewanting to sprayabout a 125 shot. But know that sprayinng dry will richen you up as the super cooled air flows through the mass air and the air temp. sensor. Now if your already tooo rich, then you will loose a lot of power. You might want to be on the safe side and get your air/fuel rechecked... Good luck and have fun..

00formLs1

ya am probly going t ask my friend with a wideband and hook it up and see what i get.
thanks

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Good choice on your dry kit. a 100/125 hit you will likely not need to pull any timing, if you do it can be done in your tune and not effect your n/a timing. Normally on a dry kit you'll have more of a problem going lean rather than rich. Bottle pressure is important, you want it at the manufactures set press for results with their jets to correspond with their hp rating. The Halo is rated at the rear wheels, so just use the jet suggested by Dave for your hp. You can trick your jet into a larger size by upping your bottle pressure, I do this. If you are having a rich problem, maybe some data logging is in order and you can check timing as well. If your LTFTs are positive this will add extra fuel at wot. A WB is a good idea, also.
Robert

DD966

iTrader: (3)

Ideal is 975 - 1050, so yes, I think you'll need one since you won't be racing much when it's 100+* . I found one in the "For Sale" section for cheap. It's worth the insurance of knowing your pressure's where you want it when you arm the system. Good Luck.

00formLs1

ran the car with a w/b a couple of minuets ago and the results are at idle a solid 14.6-14.8. on calm street driving 15.5-16.0. and at wot 13.6-14.1 so what do you guys think, my mods are in sig and car is untuned

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Your wot throttle is lean for n2o for sure, and maybe a little for n/a, as I like 12.6 n/a, but some tuners are saying around 13.1 is better power n/a for the ls1/ls6. For the juice 11.5 to 12.1 is the prefered. Mine averages 11.7. Any time your not at wot the computer is going to make adjustments to try and maintain 14.7 a/f.

00formLs1

so a tune for n2o could lower my a/f at wot, would that be my only option? with the n2o what can i expect my a/f to be when activated?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yes and no. You can set your wot a/f to what you want, a comprmise a/f is what most use, like 12.1/12.3/12.4. Ther is another way, cutting edge, but I'll get into that in the morning, however, you'll need someone that knows HP Tuner pretty well.
Robert