Nitrous w/ an M6, need advice
Nitrous w/ an M6, need advice How are M6'ers spraying? W/ a WOT switch? I am using a WOT switch right now, but have been told I'll get better track times if I spray through the gears. I don't like power shifting because I want my clutch to last, otherwise, I'd keep the gas pedal on the floor. But how are others w/ M6 doing it?
Thanks
Thanks
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 379
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Just set your RPM window switch to turn your nitrous off at about 100 or 200 (depending on how fast a shifter you are) before your shift point. Most Likely if you shift at 6000, then 5800 is perfect. If your quick, then 5900.
just curous, whats the theory on what should happen?
should the nitrous turn on just after you shift into the next gear or what?
when do you want it to turn on?
should it cut off right when you press in the clutch and shift gears or should you keep accelerating for a brief time after it cuts off (w/o nitrous) and then shift?
whats the "perfect" set of events?
should the nitrous turn on just after you shift into the next gear or what?
when do you want it to turn on?
should it cut off right when you press in the clutch and shift gears or should you keep accelerating for a brief time after it cuts off (w/o nitrous) and then shift?
whats the "perfect" set of events?
I dont powershift on spray. Maybe if you were VERY serious about your ET and where racing and had a Proshifted tranny I would consider powershifting on juice. But its just too hard on stuff on a regular setup. Just use your WOT switch the way you have been using it and just blip the throttle up as quick as possible between shifts.
As BMN said a window switch is a great idea...you will likely bounce off the limiter from time to time while getting all this down.
Powershifting is IMO the #1 cause for T56 damage...powershifting on juice will just make it worse.
As BMN said a window switch is a great idea...you will likely bounce off the limiter from time to time while getting all this down.
Powershifting is IMO the #1 cause for T56 damage...powershifting on juice will just make it worse.
Originally Posted by stockerta00
I'm spraying an M6 with a wide open throttle switch. Dont power shift just let off switch gears and mash back down on the gas.
This is how I've been doing it. No power shifting. I've been wondering if I could get better ET's by just by-passing the WOT switch, because every time I shift gears, the nitrous solenoids are on/off/on/off. I can't help but think there is a better way. Maybe set up a relay so once you hit it on the line, the nitrous stays on until you turn it off.
But I agree with you, no power shifting. Clutches for these LS1's are not cheap...
Originally Posted by BigSteele
just curous, whats the theory on what should happen?
should the nitrous turn on just after you shift into the next gear or what?
when do you want it to turn on?
should it cut off right when you press in the clutch and shift gears or should you keep accelerating for a brief time after it cuts off (w/o nitrous) and then shift?
whats the "perfect" set of events?
should the nitrous turn on just after you shift into the next gear or what?
when do you want it to turn on?
should it cut off right when you press in the clutch and shift gears or should you keep accelerating for a brief time after it cuts off (w/o nitrous) and then shift?
whats the "perfect" set of events?
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Powershifting is IMO the #1 cause for T56 damage...powershifting on juice will just make it worse.
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Ws at 3000rpm on, and launch at 5000+ rpm, this will save you on a bog. Then the upper end is cut at 6400rpm and I shift at 6500rpm, very quick shifts. Bumped my limiter up to 6800rpm to make sure I don't hit it and cut the fuel. This is all controlled with a wot sw. I bang my gears hard and fast, but the additional torque from the spray can, as said, make short work of a manual trans, so I don't spray through shift, but it's back on right away (spray). This has been working great. Second stg in sec gear is et-up the same.
Robert
Robert
