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Safe bottle pressures

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Old 10-19-2005 | 01:31 AM
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Default Safe bottle pressures

Couldn't find an answer in FAQ or by searching, but I just wanted to know "safe" bottle pressure. I know 900-1050psi is optimum, but is 1100 or 1200 psi safe?
Old 10-19-2005 | 02:07 AM
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I run mine at 1150, but this is a dry set-up, so it's like putting larger n2o jets in. Now on a wet kit jets are static so you should stay with what the manufacturer indicates. the reason being, is to keep in the optimum a/f ratio, as wet has no way to compansate for increased n2o flow (adding extra fuel). Dry compansates through the computer for extra fuel.
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Old 10-19-2005 | 06:12 PM
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I knew all that, I just didn't know if I could go over 1050 and stay safe or blow my intake off with 1150. Thanks for your help, though. BTW, its a TNT F2.
Old 10-19-2005 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
I knew all that, I just didn't know if I could go over 1050 and stay safe or blow my intake off with 1150. Thanks for your help, though. BTW, its a TNT F2.

1150 here too, you will be fine.
Old 10-19-2005 | 09:32 PM
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I've went over 1300 before. I forgot and left the heater on!! lol.. It didn't blow off.
Old 10-19-2005 | 10:12 PM
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If I understand your question right the pressure has nothing to do with damaging the engine except if it results in an incorrect AFR. The pressure effectivly is gone once the nitrous leaves the nozzle and enters the intake stream. Higher pressure simply pushes more nitrous into the engine than does a lower pressure with the same jet size.

Assuming you keep the same nitrous & fuel jets the higher the nitrous pressure the leaner you will be and the lower the pressure the richer you will be.

So if you check the AFR at 1,000 psi and you are at 12.0 for example. Then you run the car at 1,100 you will be leaner than 12.0 and if you run at 900 psi. you will be richer than 12.0.

Old 10-19-2005 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by terry s
If I understand your question right the pressure has nothing to do with damaging the engine except if it results in an incorrect AFR. The pressure effectivly is gone once the nitrous leaves the nozzle and enters the intake stream. Higher pressure simply pushes more nitrous into the engine than does a lower pressure with the same jet size.

Assuming you keep the same nitrous & fuel jets the higher the nitrous pressure the leaner you will be and the lower the pressure the richer you will be.

So if you check the AFR at 1,000 psi and you are at 12.0 for example. Then you run the car at 1,100 you will be leaner than 12.0 and if you run at 900 psi. you will be richer than 12.0.

Correct umundo. That's one of the reasons I like dry these days is that you'll stay with the same a/f whether your at 300psi or 1200psi. Whereas, a wet hit as your bottle emptys your a/f will change, but a mech type transducer for your heater can eliminate most of the worry ( except being in the sun and pressure going up). NX Fire and Ice bottle heater/cooler claims it can keep bottle within 5psi of set pressure. I want to try this for more consistant runs.

A buddy of mine had his Z06 in the sun and bottle pressure went o like 1500psi, good thing it was a dry hit. On his run he had his best ET ever, it was like up sizing the jets big time.

KCS, I did not assume that you didn't know the info, but rather included it all for those reading along that may not have known everything.

Robert
Old 10-19-2005 | 10:43 PM
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I run ~1150.




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