Madman has spoken

 

Hey Madd, put good old fashion tires on the car. Which is what most people have. By the way its a waste of nitrous to hit the tire with it all out of the hole. 350 out off the start com'mon step up and put some jets in it.
Fact is most car and pocket books can not afford to have the chassis set up to the bumper on the ground. And the tranny saving alone is worth it. Beside if you are going up , you are not going forward.
Ricky

 

hehe

I am with Ricky honest.. hey Ricky if you had say 3 feet or MORE between the N2O solenoids and the jets how would that act? Kind of like an Old school progressive unit eh

 

thats what people do with our titan plate system. They take the inner nitrous bars hose and start adding some footage. So far 8ft is the longest between the noid and the plate.
But old school will not let you ramp and hold or go back wards on ramping if need be.

Ricky

 

True but it will let some one brag about hitting a 350 shot out of the hole Nice soft hitting 350 shot that is

 

thats for damm sure.lol
Ricky

 

Madman,

What you are saying is, for $100-300 (av progressive controller price) you will fly up here and make my 17" 40 series drag radial stick shift car dead hook on a 300 hit? Damn, that sounds good to me when do you want to do this?

 

No I just stated that if you made your car work correctly you wouldnt need to spend $100.00 to $300.00 for a bandaid.

 

If I had an automatic car with a huge spongy sidewall and a huge convertor, one big smack might work. I don't think stock shortblock would like to be loaded with 250-300 at 2500 rpm. Not to mention the abuse on the clutch every time a gear is shifted.

I understand what you are saying, but me, you, or whoever can tune the suspension all day and the limiting factor will still be the tires and motor in my case.

 

Madman,
what would you recommend on a car with basic suspension that is going to be street driven to flat hook on asphalt?
anti roll,or just a bigger rear sway bar?

 

I agree 100%!! When I was running my direct port 300 shot, I was coming of the transbrake full tilt, all 300 shot at once. The car was setup correct and went consistent low 1.3X 60's.

We don't even use a controller in my Uncle's Pro Mod, and thats 3 stages worth over 1000 HP of steam!

Controller's wreak havoc on solenoids.

 

LOL.

Lets take a poll of people interested in controllers, and see what their uses are. The majority will probably be streetcars on radial tires or people trying to maximize (no pun intended) thier motor's capabilities with the parts they have.

 

I think some are missing the point. If you can launch on 300 and it sticks great, and now you hit your next kit .5-.8 seconds later. lets say another 300. The car will go fast if you ramp that kit in. Start appling power from the second stage at launch and ramp it in those .5-.8 secopnds.

The reason you do not hit 400 off the line the car spins, but the engine can handle 600 total. So you launch with 300 ramp the other 300 in,
The car will go faster.
as long as the car can handle it..

Ricky

 

I see your point Ricky. My point is the majority of the guys on this board are street cars like Y2KLS1 says. The majority of these guys cant even get their cars to hook on the street on motor. So they go and spend all this money on NOS kits for more power. Now the car REALLY wont work so the go get a controller.


Makes sense to me.

 

I think the controllers serve a very good purpose both on street cars and race cars. Taking MADMAN's example of using a 565 BBC making 1050 N/A and hitting it with 350 out of the hole. It may be hooking with that 350hp out of the hole, but start hitting it with 450, 500, etc. and you will reach a point that it won't hook. The controller helps get that under control. My point is basically that once you reach a point of spraying enough that the car will no longer hook no matter what amount of tuning you do, a controller will help in getting it to hook again. It will also allow you to bring in more power sooner than using multiple stages will. This is obviously in an application that most will never experience, but the same principle applies to street cars as well.

 

Well if you make more power you can give up a bid in the early stages . So is this car going to hold up to the turbo engine or what.
Ricky

 

If you can put all ur power to the ground on the street you can hook anywhere. So If someone is willing to give me some tips on hookin the car off the brake on the bottle on the street I'm all ears...PM me


*I don't run a controller and probably never will*

 

. So is this car going to hold up to the turbo engine or what.
Ricky[/QUOTE]

You know the answer to that one Ricky.

 

Ok, I agree with Madman but here is my dilemma.

I have a IRS rear car (93 RX7 with a SR 408 LS1). Without changing the rear how do I help it hook? I have no TA to adjust, there are VERY few shock/spring packages to try.

If the "chassis" guys dont share the knowledge how do the rest of us get better?

 

The IRS cars take a completely different theory. These cars have to squat to plant the tire. I run a specially valved shock from AFCO that is extremely soft on compression and tight on extension.