Now i'm by far no suspension expert..but wouldn't you want the run less of a pinion angle and adjust the shocks soft to hook a car on the street...and stiffer settings and more angle to hook at the track? or can you run a specifc setting that will work for both the street and track?

Sorry this is a little off topic, but we are talking about hooking nitrous cars

 

As per your sig. Madman....

Wheel to Wheel powertrain is the builder of the fastest 4th gen F-bodies last I checked.

Its not the 70's anylonger, embrace the technoligy, learn to love it and use it.

 

PM Sent to you MADMAN

 

I'm with you on this one.
I got a progressive controller a long time ago thinking it was going to help. I didn't like it at all and would never use one again. If you must go bigger staging is the best way by far. Making more power later is not the way to drag race, and is not a good match at all for the nature of how nitrous works. The initial pressure surge and first 2 seconds of nitrous operation is what's going to make you or break you. Screwing around by pulsing a solenoid during this time is not the way to go. A smaller shot without the pulsing will give more performance than a larger shot that is pulsing.
Progressive is a great idea on paper, but junk in operation.

Faisal, I got Mike's vette to hook by reshaping the spark advance down low below the shift recovery RPM. Starting the burn later in the cycle doesn't cost much power, but also doesn't shock the tires nearly as much. It's hard to explain in detail, but the power comes on much smoother even though you're getting the same amount of mix in the cylinders.

 

The turbo guys control boost down the track, I don't see why us nitrous guys shouldn't. Ever seen the gear dependant boost controllers they put on those things?

 

Turbo guys control boost in stages, by using timers and solenoids on the wastegate. Nitrous guys control power by adding stages as well.

I think Madman is just rattling your cages for fun. Progressives are somewhat of a 'bandaid' to help maintain traction. He is just saying you guys could also invest in getting the suspension/tire combos set up too.

 

Could...but alot of us are on a VERY tight budget!

 

that's why you start your roll races from higher and higher speeds, so you don't smoke the tires.... duh

 

I think you guys are shortsighted a bit on how a good progressive like the Maximizer COULD be used. Someone needs to try.

If you can come out of the hole good on a 300 shot...and the motor can take that 300 shot...good..more power too you. I dont think anyone is saying to put that 300 shot on a progressive...becuae its obviously not needed. But if you can come out of the hole on a 300 and make it 60 feet with traction...you WILL be able to add more power just after launch. So Stick some 500 jets in your kit..limit it to 300 on the launch...and either bring in the rest over time...or by rpm...or a mix of both..whatever works.

You can do that with stages as well. However stages will not allow for finer application of that gradually added rise in power over a progressive. All a progressive is is much finer "stages" anyways.
If you can come out of the hole on a 300 shot....but not a 400 shot then you obviously stick to the 300. And at some point down the track you will add more power. Either that addtional 100 for a 400 total...or maybe another 200 for a 500 total. The available traction at a given time and distance down the track will determine how much and when.
So if we know we can come out of the hole with a 300 shot fine...then thats what we will do...apply that 300 shot for say...the first 2.5 seconds. Obviosuly we want to add more power so we hit it again with another 200 shot 2.5 seconds into the run assuming thats all that could be applied at that time. 250 shot at 2.5 seconds will break the tires loose and anything less than a 200 is a waste....so 200 it is. Fantastic.

So between 0-2.5 seconds we have still only applied 300 hp from nitrous. Obviosuly we can add another 250 right about 2.5 second on our imaginary car. Well..what about that time in between. We surely could have added more power in smaller increments in between the 0-2.5 seconds instead of giant "chunks". If it will take a 300 off the line...it may take another 20 HP .3 into the run...and yet another 20 hp .5 into the run and another 20 at .7 into the run....and so on until you reach that same HP level of 200 at 2.5 seconds into the run. The result is ALOT more applied avg HP over the same time period. And if your still getting traction....you will be ahead.

Its the same as dividing stages into smaller and smaller increments like a 3,4 or 5+ stage setup. Only with a VERY good digital progressive...its infinately variable.

 

Thats a good discussion but if you start trying to add NOS after the 60 ft you are asking for trouble.

On my car I had 3 stages. I left on a 325 shot. This launched the car and put the front end into the air. .8 into the run I layed another 175 shot. 1.2 I layed another 100 shot.. never had a problem just used some cheap timers.

 

Check the pic below for what MADMAN is talking about with regards to squat. Yes the IRS can be difficult to get a good launch out of, and that pic is the first c5 to go 9's on stock IRS. I haven't quite got there yet but there is hope, maybe a set of MADMANS shocks? I am tubbing the rear for funny car slicks right now, so...
Robert

 

What exactly is the difference between progressing a 350 hp kit up to its maximum or 150 first stage and 200 second stage for a total of 350hp?

 

I don't run no girly controlers.I come out of the hole full tilt.H/C =1.26 60ft.Now will see what the baby 408 will do.BTW ive wheele to the 330 mark this past year.Came down on the center cone i think its somekind of record for a ls1.

 

There is one other reason why progressive controllers are becoming much more popular as well. Like I was saying above...limitations...structural limitations of the motor or octane limitations.

Using one of these new fangled controllers in RPM mode will allow for more HP safely. And if your using a stock bottom end...the progressive with rpm will alow for more HP safer. It wall also allow for the most HP from pump gas over a single staged kit. Substantially more.

 

A new race series, Old School Multi Stage vs New Fangled Controllers.
Robert

 

LOL...Robert..we need a "real" racer to embrace the new tech first. We would get our *** handed to us at the moment

 

I have no idea what any of you are talking about

 

uh oh...spill the beans???

 

I actually have the exact opposite problem as you, I may need to make some adjustments to my front mount height on Madman's t/a, cuz I have it in the lowest hole and she hits pretty soft, just barely totes both wheels and rides it out a little, cut a best of a 1.40 so far on a 200 shot and I know she's got 1.3's in her, if it doesn't do it with the second stage added in, then i'm gonna start moving the front mount height up to get her to hit harder, but not to much so I don't start puttin her on the bumper and wasting energy.

 

here's the question i ponder....why not have a real power plant built so you don't have to put a bottle on it? and who cares about sitting on the bumper, everytime the guy in the other lane has sat on the bumper when i've been racing I WON...and typically they had to buy new headers and an oil pan atleast.