One point to be made, NOS has had a great progressive controller out for years, and if it made you faster than multi stage, don't we think it would have caught on by know? Even so, there are times and places for progressive controlling, but multi stage for me mostly, cause I can tune it just as fine as a progressive, and save wear and tear on my noids.
Robert

 

I'm not going to bash another companies product, but I guess I should point out that when I refer to progressive controllers I am talking about the few that have been released by a couple of companies just recently. These are leaps and bounds ahead of the older controllers that have been around a long time.

 

a true curve that is infinaitely adjustable may be the ticket to make this more usable.

 

Yes, you'd need to be able to shape the curve via laptop, but you would still run into the problem of the solenoid being unable to physically duplicate that curve. You'd need a special solenoid designed specifically for this type of operation. That's harder than it sounds.

 

why wouldnt the noid duplicate the curve? Its just a pulsewidth away? If you havent seen the FJO stuff with the true curve they have it...and the noid responds. It works like magic . Now the power output does not alwasy look like the curve...but you just have to see where your lacking...and up the curve in that area and it responds

I have already played with the true curve stuff and its a piece of cake. If you want 20 more hp from 1.1 to 1.7 seconds....or from 3500-4000...its a mouse click away. its that accurate

 

Here is a question...has anyone every run through the gears on a dyno? Is it possible?

Hmmm...Im sure its possible...but is it safe? Maybe some extra straps and use a mild HP car and it would be feesable.

What I want to do is make back to back runs with a dual stage 100/100 on at various times from first gear and or second. Then run it in a prgressive mode...and the dyno will spit out a grapgh of the applied power over a few seconds. See which one averages more. Basically do a first gear launch on spray and probably go all the way to second? I wonder if 28x10.5 ET drags will hold on the rollers

 

You just need a dyna-pac dyno. Your rear hubs are bolted to the dyno, no slippage. They can tell you how much your converter/clutch slips, actual distance covered, and acceleration at various stages of the runs. Ask madman he can hook you up with that shizit.

 

dyno pack..thats right. We have one local at the suburo dealership. They want like $300 to use it though.

 

I have seen video of dragsters making 1/4 mile passes off the Tbrake on a Mustang dyno.

The shop I go to just got one so we will be making passes when there is a foot of snow on the ground.

Spraying it out of the hole in the dyno should be fun

 

Or strap it to an engine dyno.

 

yeah....but I need to be able to graph the power output through the converter and also as gears shift. As you shift the TQ multiplier will be different. Im really concerned with all of first...and most of second.

 

Get to work and test it out Al, we're waiting for your report I'll be kicking in the multi-stage soon, got off work too late tonight to do it. Will be hitting the new 347 with a 140+/- at the hole, and 2d stage another 100-150 after 1st, or about then. Progressive seems to be an excellent way to control torque, as you have shown Al, but looking for something different.

 

fluttering a solenoid is harder on its coil and its seals. each time it opens and closes is like someone with no controller making a full pass, so you can expect to have to rebuild them more often.

 

I am fully aware of that...and it is harder on the noids. But I have faith in these latest designs of th elast few years. I find it perfecty acceptable to rebuild or even just replace them at regular intervals to have the control I want.

But the question was why wouldnt I have control? And the answer is...I do have control. Solinoid longevity with a progressive is a seperate issue than wether or not they allow the control I want with something like FJO/NX true curve technology. It works as advertised.

 

pulsing is harder on the noids but easier on the engine...noids are cheap to refresh...engines aren't...hummm?

 

 

Im sorry but MTI had the first 3 IRS C5's in the nine, that picture is of a carteck car that has only been around for less then a year.
Matt

 

Why do about 90% of the people that are talking "about dead hooking on a "insert big *** number here" shot" location end in the two letters "T" and "X".....

God you guys must have some velcro tracks out there or sumthin... Well either way I think i'm with the madman on this one. I can understand the logic behind the progressives but it seems like it is a band aid to bad suspension setups....

Madman, all this suspension science that you can provide does it all have to be in house??? I'm in california and i'd rather buy you an airline ticket and drive you to house to tune the suspension in my car or is it where I can just purchase the parts thru you and we can discuss what I should be setting shocks/pinion angle/tire pressures at over the phone????

My front suspension setups is QA1 "R" shocks with BMR k-member and tubular upper/lower control arms.

Rear suspension is currently Wolfe Racecraft single drag swaybar, HPM control arms, HPM panhard bar, Comp Engineering 3 way adj shocks (These suck and I am OPEN to suggestions), Spohn torque arm with spherical rod end connected to Spohn g-load brace.... Tires I run are 28x10.5W ET Drags and rear is a 35 spline axled, Detroit locker'd 9" with all the good **** inside....

I want to DEAD HOOK on at least a 300 shot all at once and I know you're the man who can make that happen... You can PM me if you want.. thanx

 

Go multi stage, then you don't have to worry about either.
Robert

 

If you make the N2O line run around the engine compartment and then back to the nossles it will hit so soft you can dump a 400 shot at the line