where do u have ur lavender wire running to? i have it set to the arming switch ground? and on another forum they are saying to wire the grounds from the noids to this lavender wire to complete the circuit and for the window RPM switch to work..

so i am thinking that this is y my system is not working.
thanks in advance

 

Believe dem guys over there. They nose their stuffins.

But, your system should still work with the noids grounded elsewhere; your window switch just won't have any effect.

Sorry to trail you here but I saw so I replied....

 

no problem, lol. just wanted to get some more input. was hoping to get it running tonight.

what about the relay? i still cant feel anything there? never heard that click b4 even when i tested the noids without the window switch.
anyway tonight i will make a diagram of how i have everything hooked up and hopefully someone can tell me where i went wrong.
later

 

The relay part has me at a loss. My setup doesn't include one. I wish it was easy for me to draw you a basic schematic. When I have something that has me stumped, I make the thing as simple as possible. I think you have already done this too but there's still something amiss.

You need to hook the power through the arming switch. Use a voltage tester and make sure there is power passing to the solenoid. If not, you either have the relay and/or switch mis-wired or one or the other is defective. Do you know how to test this part of the circuit?

Power to the switch - is it there? Switch on, power to the relay - is it there. Power out of the relay - is it there?

Volt meter set to 20v DC, red lead to the power source, black lead to any bare part of the chassis. You should see 12 to 14 volts. Do this to each connection along the way. At some point you either won't see the voltage or you will find a faulty component.

Let's take it one step at a time and let us know what you get.

BTW, I decided to mount the Mallory ignition in the glove box. Notched the mounting area for the latch and slid the Mallory's flange into it. I then screwed a stop into the back of the glove box to trap the unit in.

 

thanks for all that.
"Power out of the relay - is it there? i did this a while back and the volt meter had nothing there.
and arming switch as in the WOT switch?
adn this link http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/stage1.pdf if u go down to page 5 of 8 there is a diagram, that is what i used to to do this, only thing xtra i have wired in is the mallory.
with it wired without the mallory and the FPSS jumped the system works ( when in park )
but i had the MSD window switch hooked up at first and couldnt get that working either. and i thought it was bad so i bought the mallory and cant get that to work.
well thanks for the help again, tomorrow when i get off of work i will go do them test and see what happens.

 

Okay, I looked at the NX diagram. Nice system by the way. I can see where you are getting tangled up. Not what you are doing but how it can happen. My arming switch does not have a ground. I will explain my wiring but please don't let it add to the confusion for you.

That relay really changes the bare wiring compared to my ZEX. The Zex instructions shows only a very simple diagram. Battery power to switch - to ZEX module. WOT switch to TPS. Ground wire to chassis. That is it. Now, instead of my grounding the wire from the ZEX module to the chassis, I run it to the fpss then to the rpm switch (lavender wire) on the Mallory. Simple series ground. Yours is a little different with the relay.

If you keep one thing in mind and write your own instructions you will get this thing.

Your ground wire has to be in a series and the entire system can only be grounded in one common place if you are to use the Mallory ignition box to control window RPM. The NX schematic shows three grounds and where I am going to be no help today is that two pole arming switch ground.

I work with someone who builds radios from scratch. He does remarkable things with electronics in general. I will try to talk to him tomorrow and see if I can send you some help with this. Once I understand the relay part, I think I can give you a wire by wire instruction.

 

Oh, one question regarding the NX schematic. What is that rectangular box that is powered between the arming switch and the relay?

 

that is the WOT switch
the toggle has a red wire coming from the ACC to the WOT then to the relay.
one ? that would help me understand the relay also is, is everything coming out of it + ?
also, all the components should only have 1 ground? at the moment i have about 6 wire goin straight to chassis ground.

 

Hi. Yeah I understand now. The NX WOT switch is mechanical and the wire in and out is just the positive lead going through it. It's a true mechanical on/off switch. Mine is electronic that reads the 4.x volts as a signal from the TPS output wire. That's why I didn't know what it was.

Your relay is another switch that is triggered by the signal from the lower amperage toggled arming switch. It is a true, separate device which is isolated in a sense from the grounding of the solenoids. I'm confused by the need for one. Your NX parts list shows the relay to be 60 amps; wow!. My system is energized by a 16 gauge wire which isn't a wimpy conductor but relayed 60 amps to power two small solenoids seems like overkill when I look at that gauge of wire. But maybe not and perhaps my system has the relay inside the nitrous management unit. The "violet" (I was calling it lavender) wire is only rated at 10 amps. If the solenoids pull all 60 amps then the Mallory window switch wire is an entirely inadequate path to ground.

Anyway, I don't think you need to tie the relay ground into the Mallory's violet output ground but I'm still under the impression that the fpss and solenoid grounding wire has to go through the Mallory window switch's grounding wire in order for the RPM Switch low/high to work. I think it is important to find the true amperage draw of those solenoids for your NX system. Instructions for my ZEX specify 10 amps service draw. The Mallory's RPM limit switch grounding wire is just adequate for my circumstances. I'm sure there is some tolerance over that amount but I'm hoping the NX system has similar current requirements.

I just finished searching the NX's Stage1 PDF and the only reference I could find for current draw was the WOT switch, which also has a limit of 10 amps. If the solenoids use more than that; the Mallory's window switch grounding will be inadequate.

I see no way to intercept the ground used by the WOT switch. It appears to be bolted directly and finds its ground through the mounting hardware. Therefore you won't be able to use the Mallory window switch without modification to the way the WOT switch is mounted.

I think I may have found something for you. The white wire that runs from the relay to the fpss appears to be a ground wire. Can you verify that with a multimeter? What gauge wire is the white?

 

the white wire is a positive. well i put the black end of the multimeter on ground then the red one to each wire coming out, and all but the green one had 12 volts. the green one goes to the + noids.

then with the system engaged, the + noid wire still wasnt gettin any voltage.
so i put a wire on the + terminal of the the battery then touched it to the + wire from the noids and they both clicked.
so my ? is how i can i get power to them but have it function how it is supposed to?

edit: also the mallory is functioning. to test it i back the timing up like 15 degrees and engaged the system and the car ran like crap. then when i turned the toggle off, it went back to normal.

 

went through it again with the the multimeter and might have found a problem or THE problem. can the WOT switch be wired backwards? if so, that might have been it!
hope someone can verify this for me

edit": nvmd, i went back and checked it again. i must not have a had a good connection when i checked it, it works both ways now

 

As someone else has corrected me in another thread; the NX wot switch operates just like my zex. Therefore, you have to get the right one (out of the three) on the tps. I believe it is the blue wire. What the wot switch does is read a voltage output from the tps; this triggers the relay which in turn sends power to the solenoids.

You cannot wire the wot micro-switch backwards. It is a simple contact that takes current from the arming toggle switch and passes it to the relay. You can't wire it wrong but you must be using the correct wires. You have to be using the correct wire out of the TPS. As said above, I "think" it is the blue wire. You can monitor it with your multimeter. Tap into the blue wire and read the output voltage. It should increase smoothly as you move the throttle. The other terminal on the wot switch will be connected to the relay. The maximum output from the TPS will then activate the relay to make a high power connection to energize the solenoids.

You are doing well to monitor the green wire as this is the path that tells you when the wot switch is closed (making contact). The wot switch may not be calibrated or it could be faulty. Keep working with this switch until it sends power to the relay. Read the blue wire as you move the throttle plates and let us know what you see.

How is the wot switch adjusted or calibrated? Could it be that you haven't situated the WOT switch so it knows when the throttle plates are fully opened and therefore never making contact to send a signal voltage to the relay?

 

i dont think u are understanding exactly how the WOT switch works. here is a link
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=52

it is either on or off, and i dont have anything wired into the TPS.
also, besides the wire from the relay that goes straight to the battery. 2 of them have power coming out but the green one to send power to the noids does not.

so whatever has to tell the relay to send power down that green wire is not doing so. i dont know how the relay works so i am at a loss trying to figure that out.
well thanks for the help again, i have to leave town. be back fri or sat
later

edit: also about the WOT, i have it pushed together ( making contact) whiel trying to figure this out. it is sending power out. so it is working correctly.

 

Hi. Thanks for the link. I know you're out of town for a few days so this post will be at least that old by the time you see it.

It looks like there is a lever that gets pushed to the point a contact is made. Is this correct? If so, the poster that told me the NX wot switch operates exactly the same as my Zex was mistaken. The Zex wot sensor has no moving parts.

With that said, you should be able to test continuity across the two terminals. Be sure all wires are disconnected before testing across the two terminals. If the switch works (closes) and power is applied to either terminal and the other terminal is connected securely to the relay, then power should come out of the relay. If it doesn't, the relay is puffed.

 

i almost sure that i have it working, but it is raining out at the moment. not only did i have the FPSS wires wrong to begin with, i had it running to +. idiot me. well now it is running to the "violet" on the mallory.
i jumped the FPSS, turned the car on, armed the system, then pushed in the WOT and gave it a lil throttle ( i have the mallory set at 1300 for testing) and the noids clicked, and so did the relay. YES
only ? i have now is the WOT. with the KEY on there is no power coming out of it, but once the car is running there is power goin in and out of it????
but when i tested the system it would only work when i pushed the arm of the WOT. so it is working correctly. just wondering.
thanks for all the help 01z28m6, very much appreciated

 

Okay. Now I can interact through some experience about the 685 Hyfire. I got my kit working and only need to fill the bottle.

The real difference in our set-ups being how the WOT switch works and the relay in the circuit. Actually the ZEX may have the relay too, it's just in that command module.

The thing you need to do with the Mallory is to send a 12v signal to the small gauge yellow wire (selectable high-speed timing retard) for spark retard. That is how it is triggered; otherwise the rev limiter you think you have with the Mallory isn't operational. You can do this more than one way. I will try to explain the basic process and then how I did it.

You can simply feed current from the arming switch's OUTPUT wire to the high-speed spark retard signal (small gauge yellow) wire. This is the easiest way but your timing will be retarded the entire time you have the nitrous armed whether you are spraying or not.

The other method is to put another relay into the system and trigger a separate circuit to send voltage to the high-speed timing retard signal wire only when you are within the window RPM you have set in the Mallory. I will try to explain now but may need to go back and forth in order to make it clear.

You will need another relay. I bought a 30 amp SPST automotive relay from Radio Shack for $7. I wired two poles to the output side of the arming switch and took a lead from the violet wire to another pole. I then wired the remaining pole to the signal wire going into the Mallory. You can look on the back of the package that the relay comes with to determine polarity, input and output. You have to also use your voltmeter to determine you have it wired up correctly. I don't think you can actually damage the relay by miswiring but you can keep it from working properly and thereby not trigger your soft touch rpm limiter.