N2O guys with heaters please come inside!!!
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N2O guys with heaters please come inside!!! I just mounted my 860 bottle heater/bracket. I'm at the wiring stage, but I'm wondering how you guys mounted your pressure switches?
I was thinking of mounting it to the small fitting in the side of the bottle, but when I have to remove it to fill it, having to take the wires off will be a pain in the ***.
The instructions say to hook the pressure fitting in the tee in line with the main nitrous line..........but I wanted to see what everyone else did.
Maybe there is a better way to do it.
Can you guys post up pics and explain why you plummed the pressure switch the way you did?
I was thinking of mounting it to the small fitting in the side of the bottle, but when I have to remove it to fill it, having to take the wires off will be a pain in the ***.
The instructions say to hook the pressure fitting in the tee in line with the main nitrous line..........but I wanted to see what everyone else did.
Maybe there is a better way to do it.
Can you guys post up pics and explain why you plummed the pressure switch the way you did?
I have the transducer on the additional port of the bottle valve, works fine. However, as you mentioned its a PITA when you do bottle swaps, so I am moving it. I'm running a 6" -4 from the bottle valve to the transducer, then running the main line off the transducer. For wiring I used butt connectors so I could "unplug" the heater from the bottle if needed, but that was also a PITA. I am now redoing the wires to be in a metric-pak connector (connectors like the factory wiring).
My Host for my webite is giving me troubles, so I can't post pics.
I put my pressure switch on the bottle and it stays there, all you have to do is pull the two spade terminals off when you pull the bottle.
I prefer it on the bottle (pressure side) because if you forget to open the valve and the pressure switch is on the other side of the closed valve, it will run the heater and never see a pressure increase. You run the risk of over heating the bottle and then venting the precious gas without using it through the blow down.
I have a Remote Pressure gauge and that is on the mainline on a Dynotune -4 swivel gauge port.
Email me for Pics if ya want them. I have two bottles (one a NX 45 Valve, the other a DynoTune Straight Valve, each have their own Pressure switch.
Beer
I put my pressure switch on the bottle and it stays there, all you have to do is pull the two spade terminals off when you pull the bottle.
I prefer it on the bottle (pressure side) because if you forget to open the valve and the pressure switch is on the other side of the closed valve, it will run the heater and never see a pressure increase. You run the risk of over heating the bottle and then venting the precious gas without using it through the blow down.
I have a Remote Pressure gauge and that is on the mainline on a Dynotune -4 swivel gauge port.
Email me for Pics if ya want them. I have two bottles (one a NX 45 Valve, the other a DynoTune Straight Valve, each have their own Pressure switch.
Beer
Valid points on the pressure seeing the closed bottle as open and continually heating. I wired mine into the arming switch, so the car has to be on, the arm has to be on, and then the heater has to be on. But still, I could forget I suppose.
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Originally Posted by Beer99C5
My Host for my webite is giving me troubles, so I can't post pics.
I put my pressure switch on the bottle and it stays there, all you have to do is pull the two spade terminals off when you pull the bottle.
I prefer it on the bottle (pressure side) because if you forget to open the valve and the pressure switch is on the other side of the closed valve, it will run the heater and never see a pressure increase. You run the risk of over heating the bottle and then venting the precious gas without using it through the blow down.
I have a Remote Pressure gauge and that is on the mainline on a Dynotune -4 swivel gauge port.
Email me for Pics if ya want them. I have two bottles (one a NX 45 Valve, the other a DynoTune Straight Valve, each have their own Pressure switch.
Beer
I put my pressure switch on the bottle and it stays there, all you have to do is pull the two spade terminals off when you pull the bottle.
I prefer it on the bottle (pressure side) because if you forget to open the valve and the pressure switch is on the other side of the closed valve, it will run the heater and never see a pressure increase. You run the risk of over heating the bottle and then venting the precious gas without using it through the blow down.
I have a Remote Pressure gauge and that is on the mainline on a Dynotune -4 swivel gauge port.
Email me for Pics if ya want them. I have two bottles (one a NX 45 Valve, the other a DynoTune Straight Valve, each have their own Pressure switch.
Beer
From what I think your trying to say, the bottle heater's bottle pressure regulator is screwed into the neck of the bottle and you just remove the two wires from the regulator by pulling them off. Okay that's simple enough.
But I don't understand exactly why you do it and I'm not EXACTLY sure where you have attached the regulator!
I'll send you a PM so you can e-mail me some pictures.
Thanks Beer! And I'm eagerly awaiting that panel.
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Valid points on the pressure seeing the closed bottle as open and continually heating. I wired mine into the arming switch, so the car has to be on, the arm has to be on, and then the heater has to be on. But still, I could forget I suppose.
You would never have to worry about leaving the heater on, because if the bottle is turned off there is no pressure for the regulator to read and turn itself on!
OK here is a Dynotune Bottle, it has only one pressure port, so I got a NOS manifold (the black aluminum piece) to put the Heater Pressure switch and mech gauge on it.
Here is a NX bottle. Vinny set this up so I can swap bottles (this is my track bottle, no opener).
It has two ports, so no manifold was needed.
I have a pressure switch on each bottle, and all it takes to swap is pulling the two spade terminals off the switch (the blue and red connectors in the photo first photo).
With the switch as photo'd it reads the bottle pressure and providing it is set correctly, no worries.
Now look at the first photo, and the Dynotune Pressure gauge on the mainline.
If you put the pressure switch there, and the bottle valve is closed and you mistakenly leave the heater on, it will not see the pressure increase in the bottle and keep cooking the bottle to potentially dangerous levels.
I'll have updated pics with the NX bottle in...I emptied the DynoTune Bottle
Here is a NX bottle. Vinny set this up so I can swap bottles (this is my track bottle, no opener).
It has two ports, so no manifold was needed.
I have a pressure switch on each bottle, and all it takes to swap is pulling the two spade terminals off the switch (the blue and red connectors in the photo first photo).
With the switch as photo'd it reads the bottle pressure and providing it is set correctly, no worries.
Now look at the first photo, and the Dynotune Pressure gauge on the mainline.
If you put the pressure switch there, and the bottle valve is closed and you mistakenly leave the heater on, it will not see the pressure increase in the bottle and keep cooking the bottle to potentially dangerous levels.
I'll have updated pics with the NX bottle in...I emptied the DynoTune Bottle
Last edited by Beer99C5; Jul 27, 2006 at 02:56 PM.
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Originally Posted by 00Vette
But if you attached the heater regulator in-line with the main nitrous feed line, wouldn't the bottle heater NOT come on till you turned the valve of the bottle on?
You would never have to worry about leaving the heater on, because if the bottle is turned off there is no pressure for the regulator to read and turn itself on!
You would never have to worry about leaving the heater on, because if the bottle is turned off there is no pressure for the regulator to read and turn itself on!
The valve cuts the heater off when the pressure reaches your desired psi. Therefore if you cut the heater switch on and the bottle is off then the valve reads 0 psi and the heater will stay on.
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Here are my thoughts on this topic.
Option A
If you have several bottles and are not worried about forgeting to open them for the switch to read the pressure, then install the switch in-line. This way you only need 1 pressure switch.
Option B
If you only have one bottle then definetly install it into the bottle directly. It makes the heater completly fail-safe. It will never overheat the bottle, and if you forget to plug the switch in then nothing happens. Its a great approach, I personally forget everything as soon as I get to the track, so anything I can do to reduce the chance of error is in my best interest.
Plus you can heat the bottle with the valve closed which is nice.
Granted you will need to un-plug the 2 wires when you get your bottle filled, but its really no big deal.
Vinny
Option A
If you have several bottles and are not worried about forgeting to open them for the switch to read the pressure, then install the switch in-line. This way you only need 1 pressure switch.
Option B
If you only have one bottle then definetly install it into the bottle directly. It makes the heater completly fail-safe. It will never overheat the bottle, and if you forget to plug the switch in then nothing happens. Its a great approach, I personally forget everything as soon as I get to the track, so anything I can do to reduce the chance of error is in my best interest.
Plus you can heat the bottle with the valve closed which is nice.
Granted you will need to un-plug the 2 wires when you get your bottle filled, but its really no big deal.
Vinny
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Originally Posted by 860 Performance
Here are my thoughts on this topic.
Option A
If you have several bottles and are not worried about forgeting to open them for the switch to read the pressure, then install the switch in-line. This way you only need 1 pressure switch.
Option B
If you only have one bottle then definetly install it into the bottle directly. It makes the heater completly fail-safe. It will never overheat the bottle, and if you forget to plug the switch in then nothing happens. Its a great approach, I personally forget everything as soon as I get to the track, so anything I can do to reduce the chance of error is in my best interest.
Plus you can heat the bottle with the valve closed which is nice.
Granted you will need to un-plug the 2 wires when you get your bottle filled, but its really no big deal.
Vinny
Option A
If you have several bottles and are not worried about forgeting to open them for the switch to read the pressure, then install the switch in-line. This way you only need 1 pressure switch.
Option B
If you only have one bottle then definetly install it into the bottle directly. It makes the heater completly fail-safe. It will never overheat the bottle, and if you forget to plug the switch in then nothing happens. Its a great approach, I personally forget everything as soon as I get to the track, so anything I can do to reduce the chance of error is in my best interest.
Plus you can heat the bottle with the valve closed which is nice.
Granted you will need to un-plug the 2 wires when you get your bottle filled, but its really no big deal.
Vinny
However, my 860 bottle heater/bracket kit came with 2 blue wire ends for the regulator unlike the 1 blue and 1 pink like in the picture above!!!
Do I need to differentiate the two regulator sides, or is the switch the same as the noids?
I agree, before the bottle valve, and it dosen't matter which wire to which post. I have mine set-up with a couple quick disconnects. I have a new free Textralia disc coming Jon, those guys are great (disc was damaged on install by myself, no problem with the Aussie clutch). We will do a heads up this coming weekend, hehehe.
Robert
Robert
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Originally Posted by Robert56
I agree, before the bottle valve, and it dosen't matter which wire to which post. I have mine set-up with a couple quick disconnects. I have a new free Textralia disc coming Jon, those guys are great (disc was damaged on install by myself, no problem with the Aussie clutch). We will do a heads up this coming weekend, hehehe.
Robert
Robert
But I have been meaning to ask you if you were going to make it to PR this weekend or on Friday. Are you heading out for the CCC, or do you have to wait for a while to get your clutch and install it? Let me know cause I want to be there when you run.
I also need to come visit for some more advice! I'm not sure exactly how to wire the switch panel that beer made for me.
You should see it.......it looks really sweet.
I figured how to wire the bottle heater and I think the arm switch should be no problem, but I'm not too sure about the purge wiring or the purge exit line for the purged nitrous. I'll come talk to you this weekend.
Originally Posted by 00Vette
I won't be tuned yet, so I won't be able to spray. I think my current tune has way too much advance timing to even try it.
But I have been meaning to ask you if you were going to make it to PR this weekend or on Friday. Are you heading out for the CCC, or do you have to wait for a while to get your clutch and install it? Let me know cause I want to be there when you run.
I also need to come visit for some more advice! I'm not sure exactly how to wire the switch panel that beer made for me.
You should see it.......it looks really sweet. I figured how to wire the bottle heater and I think the arm switch should be no problem, but I'm not too sure about the purge wiring or the purge exit line for the purged nitrous. I'll come talk to you this weekend.
But I have been meaning to ask you if you were going to make it to PR this weekend or on Friday. Are you heading out for the CCC, or do you have to wait for a while to get your clutch and install it? Let me know cause I want to be there when you run.
I also need to come visit for some more advice! I'm not sure exactly how to wire the switch panel that beer made for me.
You should see it.......it looks really sweet.
I figured how to wire the bottle heater and I think the arm switch should be no problem, but I'm not too sure about the purge wiring or the purge exit line for the purged nitrous. I'll come talk to you this weekend. Robert
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Yea, I am going to miss the race tommorrow, but will be back next weekend. I will probably be basically free this weekend (so/so), so i can help with the wiring. Maybe bring it by, or I can come by friday night if the brewskies are flying.
Robert
Robert
And if my fridge is empty there is a store literally within a 2 minute walk from my front door Yeah, I basically just need help with the purge wiring and purge exit pumbing. There wasn't much in the way of exit pumbing for the purge noid.
I'm thinking I need to buy some tubing to route the exit for the purge.I'll have you take a look and show me what I need to do!
I'll call you on saturday. I should be getting the powersteering pump and pulley tomorrow. I plan on taking it to the dealership to have them properly install the pulley. Then I can install it myself! I don't have the equipment and last time I tried to mess with the pulley the back of the pump busted out from the bolt.
Here is the NX bottle in...
DynoTune Swivel gauge adapter (Blue on end of mainline).
860 Performance -4 Wingman (had to trim the wingnut to clear the swivel and pressure gauge).
NX Bottle
DynoTune Swivel gauge adapter (Blue on end of mainline).
860 Performance -4 Wingman (had to trim the wingnut to clear the swivel and pressure gauge).
NX Bottle
