Just wondering what is the average. I am running 11.0-1 on a 175shot.

What do you all suggest and your reason.

 

Good fuel, good timing and you can run a little leaner for more power. I run the 11.5 area at torque peak, then lean out some from there to redline 11.7 area, best of both worlds safety and power. If the tune is questionable then 11.1 would be better?
Oh, yea, this is on a dry hit using the custom fuel curve, another great benifit of running dry: variable a/f ratio rpm based, try that with a static mech jet.
Robert

 

On 150 shot 11.2 right now.

 

I tune for 11.5- 11.8 air fuel on spray.
Dave

 

i have a 150 halo dry shot, its at 11.3

 

my tune averages 12.0 on a 150hp shot! It looks like it goes down to as low as 11.3 at one point! I don't know how much timing was taken out either.

I'll try to find out.

 

Sorry for the stupid question, but is it possible to tune the PE table for a dry shot? In other words, can I optimize my NA AFR, and then tune the AFR for my dry shot? I know how I can reduce timing based on cylinder airmass, but I'm not clear on how to set AFR when the dry shot hits. Any tips?

Thanks in advance!

-Jason

 

Yes and no. You can tune the PE for a dry and it will effect your n/a a/f minumally, however, this is with ideal nozzle location and distance from MAF. Actually this is the best way to tune a/f for a dry hit, nozzle(s). Another way that is being worked on is the fuel adder vs IAT table which comes zeroed out. Basically, you log your IATs on the spray and you will see what temp your running at. Then in the table you can choose the temps you want to add an additional multiplier to. Now this additional multiplier will be added on top of the wot PE multiplier only when spraying. This along with the timing can give a real world two tunes in one, n/a and spraying. I plan on doing a full step by step on this sometime in the future when I get a chance. Hope this gives some insight. Another way is to rig a BAP up to a relay so the ypou can add extra fuel pressure at wot only, you can dial in your desired a/f and will only effect things when spraying. You can also use a resistor or a variable reistat to trick IATs into adding fuel. there are other ways to go about this also, but this is the ones that can work.
Robert

 

Thanks for the insight Robert! I may work with the IAT multiplier some if I can't dial it in just right with nozzle location. I love the tuning options available with a dry shot!

 

I am 11.7-12.0 on the 200.

EDIT: Didn't realize this thread was for dry kits, I am wet. Not that it really makes a difference, but...

 

What location of the nozzles tend to make the car run richer rather than leaner. I was thinking of relocating them so that I would not have to increase the PE as much and still reach a safe AFR when using the nitrous. What are your thoughts and experience with this Robert?

 

The general rule is, closer to MAF equals richer, farther from MAF equals leaner. You can go right upyo about 3 inches, and if this is to close and you get to rich, then just start turning nozzle up or down a tad until desired a/f is reached. Some have gone as far as turning away from maf when that close to get optimum a/f. So close is better as you can still tune leaner if needed, but farther away your stuck lean, period. Check my web site for some pics on nozzle loctaions that have equled good a/f, remember pics are of vettes and our maf is right at the filter. good luck
Robert

 

I had my nozzle pointing directly at the MAF from about 5" away, and it was bucking and surging. I turned the nozzle so that it was not pointing directly at the MAF, and all is well. Each situation is different....best to just get on a wideband and try different nozzle placements...

-Jason

 

yeah, my wideband commander comes in handy............

Went to the track last night and noticed that my A/F is more like 12.0-12.5 until I cross 6000rpm and then by 6400 or so it is around 11.0-11.5

I guess most of the time on the street by the time I really "watch" the A/F I am coming up on 6400.............. gotta keep an eye out for other cars and such

 

using nitrous on the street are we?

 

and you are one to talk......that is the "pot calling the kettle black"

 

I'd like to play with the resistor on the IAT. Is there a calculation or chart for resistance value = retard?

 

Best way is to just wire in a variable rheostat, or Potentiometer (POT). Then you can dial in the pull you want, just watch a logger for amount of pull and then mark your dial. yes there is a table and calulation for a static resistor, i look later and see if I can find it. However, ther are limits using this method and the write up in my web is still the best method and you can dial in any amount.
Robert

 

I had a little something different in mind. I'm working on several "automatic" n20 circuits. More later.

 

I am getting good at dials LED's and switches