Nitro Dave help with plate?
Thanks for you help
http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Board...35xdry26x2.jpg
52/31 I saw about 80HP 125TQ
http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Board...ngWET52x31.jpg
62/36 I saw about 114HP 150 TQ
http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Board...ngWET62x36.jpg
I am sure with a little more tuning it would be perfext 
What did you do for tuning?

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You think it is so easy? You climb in the blue car and try to launch it with out hitting the tree


Ouch!!!! When you planning on hitting the track again, the 15th? I'm out till I get my cage.
Robert
Edit: Oh, I just got off the phone with Pinks, and it's on for Jon and Ellis.
Robert
Edit: Oh, I just got off the phone with Pinks, and it's on for Jon and Ellis.
There is more to HP levels than just jets.
Tell us a little more details about your pulls.
1. Did you monitor KR retard?
2. What was the A/F? Can you post the geaph?
There is more to HP levels than just jets.
Tell us a little more details about your pulls.
1. Did you monitor KR retard?
2. What was the A/F? Can you post the geaph?
Robert
We ended up 2 fuel jets smaller than Dave recommended as it they were jetted safe as Vinny had said.
Here is the jetting sheet
Here is what we got. We did monitor KR and did pull timing on the bigger shots.
100 shot @ 3300
150 shot @ 4000 RPM

I am curious to see Jons on his built motor.
Vin, your gonna love the EFI Tune/Scan package (vice the Predator) when we play with the 42# injectors and the Dry side next time I am down your way
*Note my pos BMN window switch wont turn on before 4500rpm no matter where its set! Its the second one that broke on me!
I got to pick up a msd.
For example Robert posted that they were lean on Jonathans tune up using the suggested jetting.
Then Beer posted that his set up was to rich..
This is a prime example why you should never just spray a car with out checking the tune up. All cars and combos will vary.
All manafactures give the customer a safe starting point on the jetting. It is up to the customer to check the final air fuel ratio. Air fuel will play a huge roll in the hp gains achevied and the safety of the tune up.
These plates were bench flow tested and installed on different vehicles for drivability and dyno testing. You will never catch us pushing a product to the market that has not been throughly tested first.
We chose to give the customer a safe starting point on there tune up. This is to protect the guys that do not follow suggested instructions from blowing up there car.
The plate system will produce the advertised hp levels when the tune up is correct.
We suggest air fuel at 11.8
Bottle pressure at 950-1050 psi
Timming needs to be accurate.
Thanks
Dave
*Note my pos BMN window switch wont turn on before 4500rpm no matter where its set! Its the second one that broke on me!
I got to pick up a msd. 
Looking at your airfuel. You can see where the nitrous comes in. The air fuel intsantly goes richer. After abvout a 1,000 rpms into it on the nitrous the airfuel is steadily droping going richer. It ends up about 11.0 or so. This is one reason why you are not making the hp gain you are looking for. Get your airfuel at 11.8.
Also you have a small window that the nitrous is working. Get it to where the nitrous comes in sooner.
If you want to be done with all your window switch woes ditch the one you have and forget the MSD and use this one.http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=964
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
Dave
Edit: Oh, I just got off the phone with Pinks, and it's on for Jon and Ellis.
Let me guess by third race it is me N/A and Jon with a 200shot and 6 cars?



