I got your plate installed and got it on the dyno. I was told to use a 57 n20 and 35 fuel jet for a 125 shot. The car only made 75 rwhp? Did i get the wrong numbers from you? If i am not mistaken a 125 shot should be about 125 hp to the wheels? Thanks for you help

 

I am using that jetting with my Nitrous Outlet Plate on my stock motor and seeing about 100 at the wheels (# based on combined in a two stage dyno and subtracting the dry hit which is about 44-50 HP).

http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Board...35xdry26x2.jpg

52/31 I saw about 80HP 125TQ
http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Board...ngWET52x31.jpg

62/36 I saw about 114HP 150 TQ
http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Board...ngWET62x36.jpg

 

They will be in monday. I know the jetting he gave me on my kit showed up dead on(with in 1 RWHP). the 200 jets showed 199RWHP I am sure with a little more tuning it would be perfext

What did you do for tuning?

 

Your not using the plate though Ellis! My 150shot didn't show 150hp gain either, but I have yet to get a decent dyno as you know. I have seen 11.0's from the 150 shot. That's a full second from my typical 12.0 N/A runs....

 

I do think the jetting needs to refined for the plate though! We'll see what happens when I get on the dyno again. I'm planning on tuning for rwhp.

 

Yup plates are for sissy's

 

So are automatics

 

hey no one said I could not shift You think it is so easy? You climb in the blue car and try to launch it with out hitting the tree

 

quit crying sissy!!

 

LMFAO! No one crying here slow boy! DO NOT make me get in your car and run tens!

 

Ouch!!!!

When you planning on hitting the track again, the 15th? I'm out till I get my cage.

 

I think the entire jetting for these kits needs some re-testing and re-assigning. You got 155rwhp from the 200 jets at 13.x a/f throughout run till shut down, so both jets assigned seem way off. The 150 hit was closer in a/f, but still a little rich for optimum power, though n2o jet may need to be upsized to get a true 150rwhp hit (I don't even think we got a 100rwhp?). I have my theory and do not wish to post at this time in order not to seem to bash another's product, but I also have a stake in the future of the plate kits.
Robert

Edit: Oh, I just got off the phone with Pinks, and it's on for Jon and Ellis.

 

The nitrous pulls I made with the 200jets where only from 4200-5000rpms........not nearly enough to get a good guage of hp! But I do agree that some fine tuning is in order for these jets.

 

I've dynod 3 different cars with Daves plate (Beers one of them). They all performed well. The standard jetting in all cases was a bit fat, or safe, but damn close.

There is more to HP levels than just jets.
Tell us a little more details about your pulls.
1. Did you monitor KR retard?
2. What was the A/F? Can you post the geaph?

 

Can you post your results? I know Jon has his dyno graph.
Robert

 

Robert here are my 100 and 150 plate dyno's. I know John has a built motor and mine is all stock with only Borla Catbacks and a Blackwing CAI.

We ended up 2 fuel jets smaller than Dave recommended as it they were jetted safe as Vinny had said.

Here is the jetting sheet



Here is what we got. We did monitor KR and did pull timing on the bigger shots.

100 shot @ 3300




150 shot @ 4000 RPM



I am curious to see Jons on his built motor.

Vin, your gonna love the EFI Tune/Scan package (vice the Predator) when we play with the 42# injectors and the Dry side next time I am down your way

 

Heres my dyno graph i beleive it is stock timing the tuner added some with the heads and cam but backed it off when we did the n20 tune.
*Note my pos BMN window switch wont turn on before 4500rpm no matter where its set! Its the second one that broke on me! I got to pick up a msd.

 

Airfuel may very from car to car.

For example Robert posted that they were lean on Jonathans tune up using the suggested jetting.

Then Beer posted that his set up was to rich..

This is a prime example why you should never just spray a car with out checking the tune up. All cars and combos will vary.

All manafactures give the customer a safe starting point on the jetting. It is up to the customer to check the final air fuel ratio. Air fuel will play a huge roll in the hp gains achevied and the safety of the tune up.

These plates were bench flow tested and installed on different vehicles for drivability and dyno testing. You will never catch us pushing a product to the market that has not been throughly tested first.

We chose to give the customer a safe starting point on there tune up. This is to protect the guys that do not follow suggested instructions from blowing up there car.

The plate system will produce the advertised hp levels when the tune up is correct.

We suggest air fuel at 11.8
Bottle pressure at 950-1050 psi
Timming needs to be accurate.

Thanks
Dave

 

Ok,
Looking at your airfuel. You can see where the nitrous comes in. The air fuel intsantly goes richer. After abvout a 1,000 rpms into it on the nitrous the airfuel is steadily droping going richer. It ends up about 11.0 or so. This is one reason why you are not making the hp gain you are looking for. Get your airfuel at 11.8.

Also you have a small window that the nitrous is working. Get it to where the nitrous comes in sooner.

If you want to be done with all your window switch woes ditch the one you have and forget the MSD and use this one.http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=964

Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
Dave

 

Let me guess by third race it is me N/A and Jon with a 200shot and 6 cars?