I've been told that I'm going to get bored with my all-engine set-up pretty soon. A lot of the guys in my F-body car club are saying that it's just a matter of time before I want more. Running 11.2:1 compression ratio pretty much rules out forced induction, so it looks like my only choice for a power adder will be to install a nitrous set-up.

I've been leaning towards a 150-200 direct port wet-shot, with a 15Lb bottle. I have an all-forged rotating assembly, and a F.A.S.T. 90mm intake, so I think my existing set-up would lend itself to the nitrous set-up I mentioned above. I've been told that a direct port system is totally unnecessary, as is a wet-shot, and for less money, I could make sick power using a dry-shot/fogger system.

I think I'm one of 2 or 3 guys in my car club running an all engine set-up. My car makes great power, but after taking a ride in a member's turbocharged '02 SS Camaro, I now know I'm no match for any of the power-adder guys.

Which type of nitrous set-up, and which brand, will give me the additional power I need to keep up with these guys? I don't want a system that's going to melt my engine from the inside, out. And what about timing advance/retard? I don't want to lose anything running naturally aspirated, but I realize I'll have to make some changes to safely run nitrous.

If it makes any difference, my cam specs are:
234*/240*, .598/.609, 112* LSA

Any advice?

 

2 stage NX single nozzle fogger....150hp on each stage.....

OR

2 stage kit...First NX single nozzle fogger with a 200hp then a Nitro Dave dry kit with a 100hp....

I would deff. spray 300hp+....

 

Dual stage dry, and two tunes in one, meaning you won't loose anything n/a and it'll all be in the same tune ie: fueling and timing. Easy to do a 200/300 shot in dual stage running dry and you'll get the inherent safety of the dry, and no drilling up of your manifold. Look for my Ultimate Pro dry thread for some possible insight. Good luck on your choice though, many ways to do this. We have many kits to choose from, dp, wet and dry from NX, CF and in house Nitrous Direct kits. Let me know if I can help.
Robert

 

Direct port will always have the bling factor...and for the larger shots will have better distribution to each cylinder. Single nozzle/Plate kits for the ease of install/cost factor. Another option would be totelly hidden since you are "all motor".

 

Thanks for the info. I knew it wouldn't be a simple "this is better than that because..." answer. Oh well, I agonized over my cam choices for a few weeks, so I suppose giving this more thought won't kill me.......

 

harris speed works makes a nice dp setup with the amount of money you have into your motor i would definatly invest in a stand alone fuel system. you can run a standard wet kit and will definitly be able to make the power you want with alot less expense. pulling the timing is easy all youll need is a timing tuner so you can run full timing all motor and when your system is activated it will automaticly pull timing and it also has a built in window switch

 

Yeah, I don't know why, but it seems dp gets mentioned whenever I ask what will give me most whoop-***. Looking at pics of the differents systems, it definitely looks like dp would be more work to install, but if it's worth it, I got all winter.

I like the idea of being able to change timing to suit either N/A, or nitrous.

I've seen monster systems that will deliver a 500+ HP shot, but I don't think I'll need (or want) to go that insane to keep up with the power-adder guys. Do you think a 150-200 dp wet-shot would allow me to hold my own against the forced induction crew?

Before I did the stroker, I had the car dynoed to get some baseline numbers I could compare my build against. With Kooks long-tubes, a Kooks catted y-pipe, Jet Stage II PCM module, stainless Magnaflow cat-back, SLP lid, and a 10% underdrive pulley, the car put down 355 RWHP/388RWTQ. I'd be VERY disappointed if it wasn't putting down ~450 RWHP now..maybe more. If this sounds realistic, do you think a 150-200 dp wet-shot would be enough?

What, EXACTLY, do you mean by a "stand alone fuel system"? The only thing I changed on the fuel system, was to deep-six the OEM fuel rails in favor of a set from F.A.S.T., and a set of F.A.S.T. 36# injectors.

 

whats with you and these dry shots? Why do you think there so much safer?

 

It's the future of FI cars, and technology is proving this out, with facts. Start keeping a tab on what motors/kits are blowing apart, then you'll see the dry kits have none of these issues. Furthermore, the tuning of the dry hit is being figured out and it's a breeze. Wait till the E85 fuel hits big time, you'll see a bum rush to the dry hits. There are many, many scenerios which based upon facts proves that dry hit is safer. I have been saying for years, try to find a motor that has been hurt on a properly set-up dry hit, no takers. Now this can not be said for wet hits, eventhough wet is safer than ever. No scare tactics just facts. Dry has got a bad rap for a long time, and a few of us are proving otherwise, and the power/torque is there also. Now do I hate wet hits, no, I have a 3rd stage on my car that is a wet nozzle style, so there is a place for wet even on my rides. My Harley has a DP wet kit, so...
Robert