I am planning to run a 100-150 shot of nitrous in my full bolton LS1. I did some searches looking for differences between the two but I couldn't find anything worh while to help me out.

I am just looking for an efficient and safe setup to make my car run 120-124 traps in the 1/4. Either way is perfectly ok with me as long as it gets the job done safe and effectively.

So... what you guys think? Wet or Dry? Direct Port is out of the question due to financial reasons. haha

 

This is a loaded question. You will get all kinds of opinions and still end up at square one. I suggest researching the pros/cons and in/outs of each. Then decide which one works best for you.
Dave

 

i trap 120-121 with a wet shot jetted at 62/33

 

62/33? haha

 

150hp

 

Thanks

I am pretty sure I know what the differences are... but I just don't know one is more effective/efficient on LS1 setups.

 

When I was running a 125 wet shot (gained 110whp) I trapped 120-122 depending on weather, traction, blah blah blah. All of that was done on a full-bolt-on car. But like it was said above.....so many different setups and opinions, something that might work for someone else might not be what you are looking for.

 

Well... what situations would suit each setup?

When would a dry setup be preferred over a wet setup? Upgrading the fuel system doesn't concern me to much as I was planning to do it anyway just incase.

I plan to spray it a lot so I am going to do take every safety measure I can to insure the motor.

 

Both wet or dry have there advantages and disadvantages.

Different set ups fit different peoples needs. I have used both wet and dry. I just prefer a wet system.

For example,
With dry you are relying on the fuel injectors to support the extra needed fuel.
Because of this you may need to upgrade injectors to support the fuel demand.
You will have to do computer tunning in order to change air fuel and timming properly.

With Wet.
You will not have to worry about injectors. You can adjust airfuel by simply changing the fuel jet out. Since you can adjust timming with a timming tunner you can make changes with out needing any computer tunning.

With Dry.
The bottle pressure is not as critical as with a wet system. If you have low bottle pressure with a dry system you will simply just not make any hp gains. With a wet system if you have low bottle pressure you will go rich and loose HP.

Both systems will work when used correctly. You just need to pic whats suites your needs the best. Just because one set up is good for one guy does not mean it is for the next guy.

Dave

 

wet shot is more safe than dry. bc with the dry if your MAF screws up or something and your car doesn't add the fuel for the nitrous going in then go ahead and ask some people to help you pick those extra parts that will be all over the track. but with a wet shot your fuel will be sprayed at the same time the nitrous is so its a perfect match so no boom.

 

Mmm... aight then. Then it seems pretty good for me to go Wet on a daily driver car. Just try to keep things more safe then anything.

 

You have a possiblity of getting nitrous and no extra fuel w/ wet or dry. bjamick seems to be a little biased here. How many people have had a swolen plunger in a fuel noid causing it not to open?
I like wet myself b/c a wet shot will usually hit quite a bit harder.

Most people will say that a dry kit is generally safer.

The key to a safe kit (wet or dry) is getting all the add on equipment that will save your motor if something out of the ordinary happens.

 

ahh... I see. Thanks!

Now... I am guessing that a Dry shot distributes the Nitrous better? Doesn't a Dry shot have more nozzles distributed next to each injector?

I know that's true with LT1s because the Intake runners are real short so cyliners 1 and 8 get a little saturated with nitrous. The reasoning might be wrong but I know that's what happens. haha

Why would a Wet Shot "hit harder" then a Dry shot? Isn't it generally doing the samething?

I will be taking every safely measure possible. Nitrous cutoff switch, WOT Switch, Window Switch, etc... and whatever else there is. haha

 

Where have you been. That's totally untrue. My god when was the last time you heard of a maf failing, come on this is 2006. The facts of the matter support dry as being more safe, with out a shadow of doubt. You really should get your facts in order before you start giving advice. If you need me to spell the facts out for you, just give me the nod? Not trying to bust your *****, but just trying to make sure the correct info is presented.
Here is a nice write up concerning wet vs dry. Like Dave said, some are more suited to go with wet, whereas, some are more suited to go with dry. Myself I am a dry guy and love the inherent safety of the dry, try to find someone who has hurt there motor with a properly set-up dry hit, this can not be said for wet hits. Now don't get me wrong, wet hits are fine and safer than ever before, so the choice is yours based upon the needs/facts.
Colonels Tech Files
Robert

 

I guess I am a little biased because I have a wet kit. Either kit you can't go wrong with. I guess I went with the wet kit is because while MAF's don't fail much I like to take as many numbers out of the equation as possible. I would rather have the nitrous and fuel injected in there rather than having the computer compensate for the nitrous. That is just me though, both systems are good as long as you run the supporting equipment, wot switch, window switch, perhaps a FPSS, and I even have a electronic fuel gauge to keep an eye on things.

 

I like the wet better just for the fact that you can tweak AFR by changing fuel jets and that you dont have to do any tuning or buy larger injectors.

Either setup works great though.

 

Well if your fuel noid fails, and they do much, much, much more than MAFs 9never heard of a MAF failing), you will be in a world of hurt. They fail all the time, sticking completly closed, sticking partialy open, or sticking open. This problem has become much more common these days with E10 gas causing swelling of the plungers. No manufacture is safe, however, NX does now have an E85 compatable n2o kit, and you can get upgraded pluger for certain noids.
Here's another senerio, on your wet hit, what if your nitrous noid sticks open (I have had two do this), well your in big trouble again cause your fuel noid just closed by the WS, whereas your dry kit will continue to add fuel when nitrous noid stick open. You'll also know when your n2o sticks open on dry cause the rpms shoot up, ask me how I know.
There are many other scenerios concerning failures where the wet kit will cause destruction and the dry will not.
The misunderstandings concerning dry hits never cease to amaze me. They are the future of FI cars, mark my word.
Robert

 

If set-up properly we are finding that a dry a/f ratio can be tuned by just rotating the nozzle(s). Buying injectors puts the base dry kit at the basic level of a wet concerning $$. But what you said is true, just adding to it to make the whole picture more clear.
Robert

 

We can sit here and say what ifs all day, what if your injectors can keep up with the nitrous you are injecting,what if the MAF doesn't compensate like is shoud. I have ran a wet kit for three years now spraying 150 shot no problems, I will probably go have my noids rebuilt this winter. I find it easier to tune with my wet kit also. It is a personal choice, and wet I found to be a better deal for me.

I don't misunderstand anything about the dry kit I have helped two friends install them and did much research on them before I bought my wet kit. Oh and my old roomate has a 2000 Z28 that the MAF failed on at the end of July, it does happen.

 

If I were you I would do a fuel pump (walbro/racetronix) and do a single nozzle NX kit jetted for 100-125. That should get you over 120mph traps and if you wanna push 125 jet it for 150. And when i say "jet it" i don't mean do the recomended jets, I mean jet the ****** till it actually makes that power. Good luck bro. I would also recomend a heater and window switch.