Re-wired some connections and now I am having problems.
11-04-2006, 11:27 PM
#1
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Re-wired some connections and now I am having problems. Yeah I decided I wanted to clean up my nitrous install. So me and a buddy bought some nice connecters and heat shrink. We did all the connections and everything went good. Then I notice that my nitrous pressure gauge and my fuel pressure gauge no longer lit up when I started my car. The gauges lit up when I opened the door but not when I turned the key. Also, my window switch is constantly on. My switch panel lights up with a very very faint red light instead of a bright red light. Also, my car alaram went off randomly twice. My radio would stay on even after I got out the car with the keys out. The beep beep beep noise that the car makes when the headlights are left on started happening. Then, my car wouldnt turn over. It would even try to catch and I know my battery isnt dead or messed up. All of these symtoms see to be iginition related. Please if you have any suggestions or tips please feel free to help. I am really stumped on this one. My car is a 04 z06. I have nitro daves wet plate kit. Thanks.
11-05-2006, 12:21 AM
#3
You've got a 12v line and ground line reversed or two 12v lines connected from different things. Probably at a light or lighted switch. The reason it doesn't blow a fuse is because there is enough resistance through the bulb to ground. It should be easy to find since you can rule out any ground connections that go directly to the chassis.
11-05-2006, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Todd157k
You've got a 12v line and ground line reversed or two 12v lines connected from different things. Probably at a light or lighted switch. The reason it doesn't blow a fuse is because there is enough resistance through the bulb to ground. It should be easy to find since you can rule out any ground connections that go directly to the chassis.
11-05-2006, 12:48 AM
#5
After thinking about it for a few mins.. I'll bet this is what you'll find.
One of your lines that SHOULD be a ground you have hooked up to 12v. That would make the two 12v lines together I mentioned. The "no ground" on there would explain the light going bright when you open the door. It's getting the ground from the other side of the line.
The reason the bulb is glowing low is because the two 12v lines you have hooked up are on opposite sides of a light bulb somewhere (probably a lighted switch). That would make one higher in voltage than the other, therefore creating a low voltage difference.
One of your lines that SHOULD be a ground you have hooked up to 12v. That would make the two 12v lines together I mentioned. The "no ground" on there would explain the light going bright when you open the door. It's getting the ground from the other side of the line.
The reason the bulb is glowing low is because the two 12v lines you have hooked up are on opposite sides of a light bulb somewhere (probably a lighted switch). That would make one higher in voltage than the other, therefore creating a low voltage difference.
11-05-2006, 01:01 AM
#6
Originally Posted by blackls6
Yeah I decided I wanted to clean up my nitrous install. So me and a buddy bought some nice connecters and heat shrink. We did all the connections and everything went good. Then I notice that my nitrous pressure gauge and my fuel pressure gauge no longer lit up when I started my car. The gauges lit up when I opened the door but not when I turned the key. Also, my window switch is constantly on. My switch panel lights up with a very very faint red light instead of a bright red light. Also, my car alaram went off randomly twice. My radio would stay on even after I got out the car with the keys out. The beep beep beep noise that the car makes when the headlights are left on started happening. Then, my car wouldnt turn over. It would even try to catch and I know my battery isnt dead or messed up. All of these symtoms see to be iginition related. Please if you have any suggestions or tips please feel free to help. I am really stumped on this one. My car is a 04 z06. I have nitro daves wet plate kit. Thanks.
Robert
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11-05-2006, 03:53 PM
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hate to say it but at a certain point you are going to have no choice but to cut the new connections and re-wire it correctly... if you can't find the problem that is. sometimes that is easier than troubleshooting it, although it seems like more work sometimes it isn't.
11-05-2006, 03:58 PM
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Yeah thats true. I found one thing that looks funny. I have my fpss running to my relay then the other wire on the fpss runs to my window switch 
What should the other wire not the ground coming from the fpss run to?
What should the other wire not the ground coming from the fpss run to? 
11-05-2006, 06:17 PM
#14
It depends on your wiring and components. Did you check out "Nitrous Related Wiring" sticky at the top of these threads? Find the schematic that represents YOUR components and YOUR wiring you have. Then either trace it out one at a time or, as suggested above, disconnect ALL of the wires and hook them back up per the schematic.
My FPSS switch is in series with my WOT switch but that isn't how yours is. Neither of them is "wrong" unless you know the rest of the wiring.
Wish I could help you out more, but you're a little too far away.
My FPSS switch is in series with my WOT switch but that isn't how yours is. Neither of them is "wrong" unless you know the rest of the wiring.
Wish I could help you out more, but you're a little too far away.
11-05-2006, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd157k
It depends on your wiring and components. Did you check out "Nitrous Related Wiring" sticky at the top of these threads? Find the schematic that represents YOUR components and YOUR wiring you have. Then either trace it out one at a time or, as suggested above, disconnect ALL of the wires and hook them back up per the schematic.
My FPSS switch is in series with my WOT switch but that isn't how yours is. Neither of them is "wrong" unless you know the rest of the wiring.
Wish I could help you out more, but you're a little too far away.
My FPSS switch is in series with my WOT switch but that isn't how yours is. Neither of them is "wrong" unless you know the rest of the wiring.
Wish I could help you out more, but you're a little too far away.
11-05-2006, 07:34 PM
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Wow this is so weird. I looked at all of my connections and couldnt find anything wrong. This morning I started my car and it started fine. I then cut the car off and tried to start it once more and it wouldnt start up. Here are the symptoms simplified: Car wont start, gauges do not light up, nitro daves window switch stays on while the car is off, heater element turns on automatically. I think there must be 1 wire that I have crossed or something. Its extremely aggravating. If anyone could lend some insight please do so. 
Here are the symptoms simplified: Car wont start, gauges do not light up, nitro daves window switch stays on while the car is off, heater element turns on automatically. I think there must be 1 wire that I have crossed or something. Its extremely aggravating. If anyone could lend some insight please do so.
11-06-2006, 01:14 PM
#18
Sorry dude. There's an old saying "you do what you've always done... you'll get what you've always got".
Time to pull it apart. You're missing something while tracing the wires.
1) it's obvious it is an electrical short/mis wired
2) it was working fine BEFORE you cleaned it all up and re-wired it
3) must not be obvious or you would have seen it.
When I wired mine, I used different colors for almost everything except chassis ground. Not just "red" of all "12v" but a dif. color for each 12v line. It's easier to track down later. I'm not suggesting you put in new wires, just think about it before the next job. As for this one... pull the connections off the components and use a 12v probe light while hooking them back up. That will verify you have the correct wire in your hand. Every wire in the system, with the exception of the tach wire, goes to either 12v, or ground. Through switches, yes... but eventually it's one of the two. If you have to temporarily short out a switch to get the probe to light up, then do so and take the short off when complete.
Does this help? not sure but there are times when I get so frustrated, I can't see the forest for the trees.
Time to pull it apart. You're missing something while tracing the wires.
1) it's obvious it is an electrical short/mis wired
2) it was working fine BEFORE you cleaned it all up and re-wired it
3) must not be obvious or you would have seen it.
When I wired mine, I used different colors for almost everything except chassis ground. Not just "red" of all "12v" but a dif. color for each 12v line. It's easier to track down later. I'm not suggesting you put in new wires, just think about it before the next job. As for this one... pull the connections off the components and use a 12v probe light while hooking them back up. That will verify you have the correct wire in your hand. Every wire in the system, with the exception of the tach wire, goes to either 12v, or ground. Through switches, yes... but eventually it's one of the two. If you have to temporarily short out a switch to get the probe to light up, then do so and take the short off when complete.
Does this help? not sure but there are times when I get so frustrated, I can't see the forest for the trees.
11-06-2006, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd157k
Sorry dude. There's an old saying "you do what you've always done... you'll get what you've always got".
Time to pull it apart. You're missing something while tracing the wires.
1) it's obvious it is an electrical short/mis wired
2) it was working fine BEFORE you cleaned it all up and re-wired it
3) must not be obvious or you would have seen it.
When I wired mine, I used different colors for almost everything except chassis ground. Not just "red" of all "12v" but a dif. color for each 12v line. It's easier to track down later. I'm not suggesting you put in new wires, just think about it before the next job. As for this one... pull the connections off the components and use a 12v probe light while hooking them back up. That will verify you have the correct wire in your hand. Every wire in the system, with the exception of the tach wire, goes to either 12v, or ground. Through switches, yes... but eventually it's one of the two. If you have to temporarily short out a switch to get the probe to light up, then do so and take the short off when complete.
Does this help? not sure but there are times when I get so frustrated, I can't see the forest for the trees.
Time to pull it apart. You're missing something while tracing the wires.
1) it's obvious it is an electrical short/mis wired
2) it was working fine BEFORE you cleaned it all up and re-wired it
3) must not be obvious or you would have seen it.
When I wired mine, I used different colors for almost everything except chassis ground. Not just "red" of all "12v" but a dif. color for each 12v line. It's easier to track down later. I'm not suggesting you put in new wires, just think about it before the next job. As for this one... pull the connections off the components and use a 12v probe light while hooking them back up. That will verify you have the correct wire in your hand. Every wire in the system, with the exception of the tach wire, goes to either 12v, or ground. Through switches, yes... but eventually it's one of the two. If you have to temporarily short out a switch to get the probe to light up, then do so and take the short off when complete.
Does this help? not sure but there are times when I get so frustrated, I can't see the forest for the trees.
11-06-2006, 08:47 PM
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OK GOOD NEWS! My friend was able to figure out which wire were connected wrong. There were 3 total wire going to the wrong spots. 2 grounds and 1 other wire. Its all better now! Wow, that will teach me to mess with something too much Thanks for all the help guys.
Thanks for all the help guys.