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Terminator X and external o2 controller as input?

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Old 06-03-2024, 08:52 AM
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Default Terminator X and external o2 controller as input?

I see four extra inputs but they don't seem to be configurable to anything other than fans, ac compressor, fuel pump etc., but nothing that appears capable of reading an external o2 controller like an NTK ballenger unit. Since someone will ask, it was brought to my attention the factory Bosch sensors won't handle much, especially leaded race gas - so I'm circumventing by just using another controller that uses an NTK sensor.

Are these ecu's only capable of using the onboard o2 controller?

Thanks.
Old 06-03-2024, 09:18 AM
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it can only use its built in one for fuel correction. you could log wideband as a generic 5v and scale it correctly but it wont do anything except log it.
the terminator x is holleys lowest cost ecu for LS motors and is featured as such. if you go with one, you might be disappointed since it isnt really targeted to people that need more advanced features.
letting cost drive your ecu selection will ultimately cost you more in the long run by either limiting your capability or needing to upgrade it. buy once cry once.
Old 06-03-2024, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
it can only use its built in one for fuel correction. you could log wideband as a generic 5v and scale it correctly but it wont do anything except log it.
the terminator x is holleys lowest cost ecu for LS motors and is featured as such. if you go with one, you might be disappointed since it isnt really targeted to people that need more advanced features.
letting cost drive your ecu selection will ultimately cost you more in the long run by either limiting your capability or needing to upgrade it. buy once cry once.
Much appreciated, this makes sense and it makes the Holley HP and the FT550 look like the clear choices for long-term race-only use. But I'm hearing the 4.9 is not a good option for leaded fuel, but my question is how bad could it really be (and I ask this with no expectation for 100% certainty) if only running naturally aspirated with a big cam? Maybe buy a spare 4.9 o2, and keep the car in open loop at WoT once it's close, which is what I'd do anyways for bracket racing ? Or are we talking, it won't make it 5 runs down the track before the 4.9 is toast?

Thanks.
Old 06-03-2024, 10:34 AM
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as far as leaded fuel sensor life i have no idea.
but after thinking about it a little you might be able to do some tricky advanced table stuff to make it work. there is a af target offset option for advanced tables. its still probably not the right ecu for what it sounds like youre doing, but i guess it might be possible to use. if you end up having to upgrade ecus eventually, it would have ended up costing more in the long run than going straight to the right ecu.
Old 06-03-2024, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
as far as leaded fuel sensor life i have no idea.
but after thinking about it a little you might be able to do some tricky advanced table stuff to make it work. there is a af target offset option for advanced tables. its still probably not the right ecu for what it sounds like youre doing, but i guess it might be possible to use. if you end up having to upgrade ecus eventually, it would have ended up costing more in the long run than going straight to the right ecu.
Yeah I think you hit the nail on the head... i'll spend more in the long run. And no telling what the frustration is worth to me at that point.

Much appreciated.
Old 06-03-2024, 11:47 AM
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I’d definitely just skip to a dominator. I did the terminator x thing right when it came out and then added the CAN I/O expander. Back in ‘19 when I purchased the terminator X the dominator was about $2k which is how much I have into the current setup with less ability.

I recommend terminator X all the time when I’m doing basic N/A swaps with cams and whatever. As soon as you’re running real fuel and serious combos the terminator X is a hard pass.
Old 06-03-2024, 05:10 PM
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It depends on how serious about bracket racing you are. A HP at a min with NTK sensor or a Dominator if your really serious. I have customers racing with both. The dominator just gives you 40 inputs to log. The inputs are whats going to to help you know more Info about your car and every pass. Just depends on the level your racing at. Here are just a few things I typically log on NA race car, all 4 shocks, front height wheelie sensor, track temp, drive shaft speed, trans temp, oil temp, trans pressure, gear selector sensor, weather information, g meter, etc So you can easily go sensor poor.
Old 06-03-2024, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by minytrker
It depends on how serious about bracket racing you are. A HP at a min with NTK sensor or a Dominator if your really serious. I have customers racing with both. The dominator just gives you 40 inputs to log. The inputs are whats going to to help you know more Info about your car and every pass. Just depends on the level your racing at. Here are just a few things I typically log on NA race car, all 4 shocks, front height wheelie sensor, track temp, drive shaft speed, trans temp, oil temp, trans pressure, gear selector sensor, weather information, g meter, etc So you can easily go sensor poor.
what do you typically use for a track temp sensor?
Old 06-04-2024, 01:43 AM
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Lowdollar Infrared Temperature sensor
Old 06-05-2024, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by minytrker
It depends on how serious about bracket racing you are. A HP at a min with NTK sensor or a Dominator if your really serious. I have customers racing with both. The dominator just gives you 40 inputs to log. The inputs are whats going to to help you know more Info about your car and every pass. Just depends on the level your racing at. Here are just a few things I typically log on NA race car, all 4 shocks, front height wheelie sensor, track temp, drive shaft speed, trans temp, oil temp, trans pressure, gear selector sensor, weather information, g meter, etc So you can easily go sensor poor.
Well, true. But what I am serious about is getting support when I need it. At this point, Holley taking a week to answer a support ticket or staying on hold for over 1.5 hours, will not work.

I think my choice of supplier is changing. Is what it is.
Old 06-06-2024, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jbtautoman
Well, true. But what I am serious about is getting support when I need it. At this point, Holley taking a week to answer a support ticket or staying on hold for over 1.5 hours, will not work.

I think my choice of supplier is changing. Is what it is.
Thats why you buy from a shop that is an authorized dealer, installer and tuner. Then they will go your tech support and handle any warranty issues vs you calling Holley.
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Old 06-06-2024, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by minytrker
Thats why you buy from a shop that is an authorized dealer, installer and tuner. Then they will go your tech support and handle any warranty issues vs you calling Holley.
Sounds like a solid route.
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