cyipher

iTrader: (1)

Wrong

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

wouldn't it be cheaper to run 2 bottles and 2 bottle heaters with a regulator

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

Care to elaborate?

I guess I should have been more clear in what I said as well. Basically the nitrogen tank will have enough pressure to bump the nitrous tank to where it needs to be even in cold weather.

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if someone could put a bleed off valve on top of the Nitrous bottle to bleed off the extra Nitrogen if the Nitrous bottle pressure gets to high? Since the Nitrous is at the bottom of the bottle and the nitrogen is at the top ( I think)it seems someone might be able to bleed off the extra pressure without letting out the Nitrous Oxide? Just a thought.

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

possibly a fitting with a purge solenoid and line connecting it to outside the car?

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

My thought’s exactly. But I don’t like the idea of the Solenoid and lines being pressurized all the time.

P.S. maybe the pressure regulator from the Nitrogen bottle already takes care of that function?

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

The blow off discs are usally 3000 psi. A correctly chosen nitrogen bottle will have the size and pressure so that even if the regulator fails with both bottles fully serviced it should not reach 3000 psi. Dont forget the pressures would equalize in that scenario. A small bottle with 4000 psi and a large bottle with 950 would probably equalize around 2000 psi (dependng on nitrogen bottle size of course)

I used to use a 15 lb nitrogen bottle with 2500 psi and a 15 lb nitrous with whatever the ambient pressure was after servicing..usually 900 psi or so. If there was a fialure and the pressure equalized...it would get to around 1600. No biggie at all.

And yes...once there is nitrogen in the nitrous tank to maintain pressure...you can bleed off excess pressure without releasing much N20 at all. I used to just turn my bottle upside down and crack the valve. Only nitrogen would come out...but as soon as you turned it over...lookout! Here comes the juice.

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

its not a matter of cold weather but a matter of hot. cold no problem even if you run out of nitrogen. in hot weather your tank pressure can get too high if you pressurized the nitrous when it was cold.

nitrous expands and contracts nitrogen doesnt.

GET2IT

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to see it work first

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Ah ha, so I was right comparing the scenerio of setting up on a cold day compared to a hot day concerning your a/f ratio you would see.

Al, why not just put a ball valve (like was suggested) in the side of the n20 tank valve, then you just crack it to bleed off excess nitrogen pressure?
Robert

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

Sorry, I thought that it was a given.

When I said "Outside temp will not effect the bottle pressure of the nitrogen like it does the nitrous. Whatever you set the regulator at is what your nitrous bottle pressure will stay at." I was talking about the fact that nitrogen doesn't expand and contract like nitrous and it doesn't matter if it is cold or hot outside when you turn on the system, you will have the correct bottle pressure in the nitrous bottle at that time. Now if you turned on the system to pressurize the bottle on a cold day then it gets hot, of course the nitrous bottle pressure will go up.

I'm really glad Al made his way into this thread, I was hoping he would

Robert - Sorry, I didn't realize you were talking about pressurizing the bottle on a cold day, keeping it at that pressure, and using it on a hot day, in which case, yes, the bottle pressure would rise. You could always do like Al said and bleed off some of the nitrogen at that point.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Robert...you could put a valve in the neck no problem....as long as you have a spot for it. Hell...you could put a solinoid in there and have a purge for your nitrogen pressure. Hell if you really wanted to you could put a pressure switch so that it purges automatically anytime the pressure is over what you set it.

When I had the NX Maximizer II I had it controlling my nitrogen system. A pressure sensor (not switch) went into the neck of my nitrous bottle...and it would open the Dedenbear 3000 PSI noid anytime pressure was below 1050. It would close just over 1050. The MaxII also has provisions for auto purge. You could hook up another noid and have it purge nitrogen right off you bottle neck at say 1100. Talk about fully automatic. Then of course you still need a regular purge to get the nitrous to the noid.

Of course you can do the same thing with two dynotune pressure switches. One to open the Dedenbear 3000 psi nitrogen noid at your set pressure of say 1000 psi. And one to bleed of nitrogen head pressure at say...1100 psi. You could have them both off a Tee right out of the neck. Then you need one more port for the noid.

When you go nitrogen...and have all these high pressure noids and switches there are a million ways to do stuff.

BTW I am more a fan of noid/pressure switch combo that regulator myself....as you can see. A regulator will have a flow rating...that flow rating may keep up with nitrogen demand to maintain perfect pressure of a 150 shot. But will it keep up with the demand of a 300 shot? 400 shot? Who knows. A 3000 psi noid/pressure switch setup...you can just add another noid in parallel if you need more flow. But the Dedenbear C02 noid PN 302ABSOV was easliy keeping pace with my 300 shot

Having said that though...I think this product kicks *** and its head and shoulders above a bottle heater. I have no idea what the flow rate of the regulator is but im sure it will work for 90% of the avg nitrous user perfectly.

Of course you could do the same thing with

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

do you also run a check valve? some solenoids will back feed if the pressure on the oppisite side of the inlet if its at a higher pressure then the inlet.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I did run a check valve

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

It may have been covered but why don't you set the pressure to 1100 or whatever and just turn the system on right before you use it. We leave our bottle closed until we get ready to do our burnout, turn all the systems on and open the bottle is the last thing we do.
Phil

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

This is the point I was trying to make. I think depending on the ambient temp of the bottle, the a/f will vary from time to time. So I think we would be well advised to use a bottle heater to make sure we end up with the same pressure and a/f each time. Using the push system with 10lb bottle and a big hit would/could keep a/f from changing from begining of run to end of run ie: normally going richer on a wet hit.
Robert

chuntington101

hummmmm looks like there is room for another 15lbs worth of anti-preusre drop there!!

a quickquesion, i have been paint balling and the guys over here use Co2 i think. the probelm with these pushers is what happens when the nitrogen bottle gets cold????

thanks Chris.

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

It gets cold

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

Co2 is similar to nitrous in the fact that they are both stored as a liquid in a bottle, nitrogen is stored as a gas. so weather has very little affect on a bottle of nitrogen

chuntington101

cyipher, sorry but C2o cant be a liqued, its one of thoes gasses (can't remeber the f*cking term now) that can onlt be in gas or solid state!

Bad Habit Bird, does it really??????? what i was trying to say was does the Nitgrogen bottle sufffer from preusre drop like the N2O??

is there anything to stop you from using Co2???

thanks Chris.