Progressive controller for big noids
02-21-2007, 07:54 PM
#62
Is it the same WS you used before? seems that it is suppling power to ground all the time rather than in the rpm window only? That's really the only way you can activate the noids, by having the window sw ground out, but it shouldn't be doing it all the time only in the window.
We really need to know what ws and how you have it wired? not sure what you mean on the ws being the wot sw? Can you draw out your ws wiring and post it?
Robert
We really need to know what ws and how you have it wired? not sure what you mean on the ws being the wot sw? Can you draw out your ws wiring and post it?
Robert
02-21-2007, 08:04 PM
#64
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Thw window/TPS switch is built into the ECU. I can set activation via throttle position, rpm on and off, speed, etc.. It outputs a ground across an usused factory emmisions sensor wire when the parameters are met. I set speed and rpm to 0 for testing so it is only throttle controlled. Ive been triggering the system by hitting the throttle and it activates the solenoid as it should. Im positive that it is working correctly.
The problem now is that the controller is outputing a +12v signal through the SG terminals any time the 12v terminal has power. This happens with nothing else plugged into it. ie.. The only wires going to the controller are the main power and body ground, nothing else. But it still has a 12v output.
The problem now is that the controller is outputing a +12v signal through the SG terminals any time the 12v terminal has power. This happens with nothing else plugged into it. ie.. The only wires going to the controller are the main power and body ground, nothing else. But it still has a 12v output.
02-21-2007, 08:21 PM
#65
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Another question, Robert. What is the (AN) terminal for. The instructions say nothing about it and I dont get return calls from your shop.
And Im assuming I should be splitting the grounds on the noids to the 2 SG terminals? Again, there was nothing about it in the instructions, it just showed 1 wire going to both grounds and I figured It would split the load better.
And Im assuming I should be splitting the grounds on the noids to the 2 SG terminals? Again, there was nothing about it in the instructions, it just showed 1 wire going to both grounds and I figured It would split the load better.
02-23-2007, 06:02 PM
#67
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Thanks Robert, and Albert at Cold Fusion. Great customer service from both of you, I appreciate it.
I switched over to the single relay and everything works great in testing so far. Im going to try to get some street time with it tomorrow and if that works out Im off to the dyno.
Very nice unit, easy to use, seems much more precise then the dial unit I was using. I've actually grown to like the look of it but I hid it in the center console anyway
. The kit sent was complete with a nice 40/60amp relay and crimp connectors.
Redid my blowdown tube with -6an while I was at it too.
I switched over to the single relay and everything works great in testing so far. Im going to try to get some street time with it tomorrow and if that works out Im off to the dyno.
Very nice unit, easy to use, seems much more precise then the dial unit I was using. I've actually grown to like the look of it but I hid it in the center console anyway
. The kit sent was complete with a nice 40/60amp relay and crimp connectors. Redid my blowdown tube with -6an while I was at it too.
