View Poll Results: Nitrous or Turbo
Nitrous
81
54.73%
Turbo
67
45.27%
Voters: 148. You may not vote on this poll
Nitrous or Turbo
04-05-2007, 10:15 AM
#5
Originally Posted by calie0
well turbos are $5000+ and nitrous systems are $500+. for a tenth of the price you can get about the same hp with N2O.
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04-06-2007, 01:30 AM
#10
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nitrous now...turbo later....thats what im doing....i may even keep the nitrous later on...gotta try them both before you can say one is better than the other
04-07-2007, 01:29 AM
#15
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Show your ***** run both...lol...don't be scurred
No really what do you want...a midnight monster, weekend warrior, a wash n' show car or a "look what I spent and will never go over 80mph" car?
No really what do you want...a midnight monster, weekend warrior, a wash n' show car or a "look what I spent and will never go over 80mph" car?
04-07-2007, 12:09 PM
#16
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Turbo can ultimately make more cylinder pressure safely. So if your going fo an all out combo and money is no object....go turbo.
But IMO if your goals are 500-750 rwhp on a typical forged LS1...nitrous all the way.
I just dont see the logic in spending 10K+ dollars on a turbo thats gonna make 500 rwhp. Or even 600 really.
But IMO if your goals are 500-750 rwhp on a typical forged LS1...nitrous all the way.
I just dont see the logic in spending 10K+ dollars on a turbo thats gonna make 500 rwhp. Or even 600 really.
04-07-2007, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Turbo can ultimately make more cylinder pressure safely. So if your going fo an all out combo and money is no object....go turbo.
But IMO if your goals are 500-750 rwhp on a typical forged LS1...nitrous all the way.
I just dont see the logic in spending 10K+ dollars on a turbo thats gonna make 500 rwhp. Or even 600 really.
But IMO if your goals are 500-750 rwhp on a typical forged LS1...nitrous all the way.
I just dont see the logic in spending 10K+ dollars on a turbo thats gonna make 500 rwhp. Or even 600 really.
04-07-2007, 03:44 PM
#18
Originally Posted by my01ws6
Just wondering which one you guys think is safer and easier on the block?
). It would certainly be the nitrous set-up. Why, because the nitrous torque will come on much quicker. It's really a double edge sword. So, straight up, probably the turbo would be easier on the lower end. However, there is a fix for this where the nitrous (dry of course) can be set-up to come much more progressively and actually mimick the turbo power/torque curves, as seen below in the over lay (thanks Chris Stewart). This can be done 3-different ways, the overlay is nozzle postion, then we have dual stage that breaks up the torque spike and finally the progressive controller. Progressive, imo, is the least desirable way to accomlish because of the wear/tear scenerio concerning beating the hell out of the noid(s).A couple things on the graphs, my torque peak was actually a little over 500rwtq, and rwhp was about 480, so it was closer than the graph shows. Anyway, my set-up at that time was a 5177/dual staged and follows the curves of the turbo pretty well. Then look at Joe's all in one shot with a healthy intial torque spike, but falls off after that. So if we know what kind and at at what boost level a turbo is running we can tailor our set-up to be a little more agressive and take the win every time and still allow our stock block to live (it's that big low rpm torque spike that kills stock bottom ends) (ask me how my current stock block survived 665rwtq at 3800rpm
).
Robert
04-08-2007, 07:31 PM
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Wow, sounds pretty bias in here 
Okay Ok J/K
I have owned both, so I will give you my opinion and the other side of the coin.
My first set-up was heads cam and a TNT 75 shot. This was years ago and with an AFR about 10 to 1 the car made 510 @ the tire. I love nitrous. My previous car was a 66 El camino. 475 big block, two stages, 300 on the first and 150 on the second. Never ran the second stage but it went 10 oh @ 138. Let me say agian, I love nitrous. On a good tune and the right bottle pressure, hang on for an instant kick in the pants.
Now,
I have stock truck heads, and a stock cam with a 76GTS and it made 515@ the tires with 8.5 pounds of boost. This thing in the cold of night pulls like a freight train. The car is soft spoken until you nail it. I love my turbo set up.
The reason I changed is because over the years I have spent enough money on nitrous bottle fills to pay for a majority of the turbo kit I now have.
With my turbo set-up, the power is ALWAYS there! I never worry about low bottle pressure when it is cold, and on the contrary, when it is cold my turbo setup makes the most power it can However, when it is hot, the heat soak from the turbo set-up hurts compared to the freezing cold temp drop from the unit.
Think both situtions out long and hard before you make a move. Don't let people sum up the expense of nitrous in 500 dollars and than try and tell you to make 500 you need 10K into a turbo set-up(not starting anything, just making a point). At 500 bucks you get the kit only, with out the other instruments to know what you FP is or what bottle pressure is and other things related to bottle use like a bottle heater. For example, if you are on the street one night and your opponent pulls up, unless you have spent the money on a bottle opener and spent the money on your bottle heater that has hepefully been on, you will have to get out of the car and crank the bottle open and hope you have good bottle pressure so you can use all the power you tuned for at that given bottle pressure. Where as, once the turbo set up is tuned, your ready.
I am sure we could spend hours comparing which is better in a given situation. I am giving you the other end of the spectrum because so far in this post you haven't heard it
Either way, you will be happy with either because you are adding power to you car I always figured I would have to build the motor no matter what, whether it was a turbo or spray. So I put the kit on the car and now I am building a low comp. motor for the turbo set-up and it will hopefully make more power than a built motor for nitrous on pump gas. My previous statement is specualtion at the moment, but I am going to see what happens.
Either way, mod your car and have fun!!!
Good luck,
Glenn
Okay Ok J/KI have owned both, so I will give you my opinion and the other side of the coin.
My first set-up was heads cam and a TNT 75 shot. This was years ago and with an AFR about 10 to 1 the car made 510 @ the tire. I love nitrous. My previous car was a 66 El camino. 475 big block, two stages, 300 on the first and 150 on the second. Never ran the second stage but it went 10 oh @ 138. Let me say agian, I love nitrous. On a good tune and the right bottle pressure, hang on for an instant kick in the pants.
Now,
I have stock truck heads, and a stock cam with a 76GTS and it made 515@ the tires with 8.5 pounds of boost. This thing in the cold of night pulls like a freight train. The car is soft spoken until you nail it. I love my turbo set up.
The reason I changed is because over the years I have spent enough money on nitrous bottle fills to pay for a majority of the turbo kit I now have.
With my turbo set-up, the power is ALWAYS there! I never worry about low bottle pressure when it is cold, and on the contrary, when it is cold my turbo setup makes the most power it can
However, when it is hot, the heat soak from the turbo set-up hurts compared to the freezing cold temp drop from the unit.Think both situtions out long and hard before you make a move. Don't let people sum up the expense of nitrous in 500 dollars and than try and tell you to make 500 you need 10K into a turbo set-up(not starting anything, just making a point). At 500 bucks you get the kit only, with out the other instruments to know what you FP is or what bottle pressure is and other things related to bottle use like a bottle heater. For example, if you are on the street one night and your opponent pulls up, unless you have spent the money on a bottle opener and spent the money on your bottle heater that has hepefully been on, you will have to get out of the car and crank the bottle open and hope you have good bottle pressure so you can use all the power you tuned for at that given bottle pressure. Where as, once the turbo set up is tuned, your ready.
I am sure we could spend hours comparing which is better in a given situation. I am giving you the other end of the spectrum because so far in this post you haven't heard it
Either way, you will be happy with either because you are adding power to you car
I always figured I would have to build the motor no matter what, whether it was a turbo or spray. So I put the kit on the car and now I am building a low comp. motor for the turbo set-up and it will hopefully make more power than a built motor for nitrous on pump gas. My previous statement is specualtion at the moment, but I am going to see what happens.Either way, mod your car and have fun!!!
Good luck,
Glenn
04-10-2007, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Well first lets consider which is the faster/quicker set-up, a 500rwhp turbo, or a 500rwhp nitrous (dry would be my choice ). It would certainly be the nitrous set-up. Why, because the nitrous torque will come on much quicker. It's really a double edge sword. So, straight up, probably the turbo would be easier on the lower end. However, there is a fix for this where the nitrous (dry of course) can be set-up to come much more progressively and actually mimick the turbo power/torque curves, as seen below in the over lay (thanks Chris Stewart). This can be done 3-different ways, the overlay is nozzle postion, then we have dual stage that breaks up the torque spike and finally the progressive controller. Progressive, imo, is the least desirable way to accomlish because of the wear/tear scenerio concerning beating the hell out of the noid(s).
A couple things on the graphs, my torque peak was actually a little over 500rwtq, and rwhp was about 480, so it was closer than the graph shows. Anyway, my set-up at that time was a 5177/dual staged and follows the curves of the turbo pretty well. Then look at Joe's all in one shot with a healthy intial torque spike, but falls off after that. So if we know what kind and at at what boost level a turbo is running we can tailor our set-up to be a little more agressive and take the win every time and still allow our stock block to live (it's that big low rpm torque spike that kills stock bottom ends) (ask me how my current stock block survived 665rwtq at 3800rpm ).
Robert
). It would certainly be the nitrous set-up. Why, because the nitrous torque will come on much quicker. It's really a double edge sword. So, straight up, probably the turbo would be easier on the lower end. However, there is a fix for this where the nitrous (dry of course) can be set-up to come much more progressively and actually mimick the turbo power/torque curves, as seen below in the over lay (thanks Chris Stewart). This can be done 3-different ways, the overlay is nozzle postion, then we have dual stage that breaks up the torque spike and finally the progressive controller. Progressive, imo, is the least desirable way to accomlish because of the wear/tear scenerio concerning beating the hell out of the noid(s).A couple things on the graphs, my torque peak was actually a little over 500rwtq, and rwhp was about 480, so it was closer than the graph shows. Anyway, my set-up at that time was a 5177/dual staged and follows the curves of the turbo pretty well. Then look at Joe's all in one shot with a healthy intial torque spike, but falls off after that. So if we know what kind and at at what boost level a turbo is running we can tailor our set-up to be a little more agressive and take the win every time and still allow our stock block to live (it's that big low rpm torque spike that kills stock bottom ends) (ask me how my current stock block survived 665rwtq at 3800rpm
).Robert
peace