Nitrous spraying before WOT
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Nitrous spraying before WOT This weekend I decided to double check my nitrous settings by pulling the nitrous line from the airlid and sticking the open end up by my windshield with some tape. I have a Dynotune window/TPS switch. I currently have the switch set for no 1st gear lockout and to come on between 3,000 - 6,000 RPM. It is also configured to use the TPS for the WOT setting.
So I started up my car with the bottle open and then armed the nitrous system. I ran the RPMs up slowly to 3,000 RPM and low and behold it began spraying!!! I then ran through the programming process again for the switch and made sure that I had it at WOT during the step to set the TPS signal. (step 8 I believe). I then started the car again and ran the RPMs up to 3,000 and it sprayed again.
I have already sprayed a few times and no damage appears to have occurred. I believe this is because I made sure the pedal was to the floor when I had the system armed. The last couple of times that I sprayed it seemed to not hit very hard, but I believe that is because the bottle is only about 1/8 full and was at 800 PSI. Would that make it much weaker than a full bottle at the same PSI?
Below is the wiring diagram. As you can see I opted to connect the WOT wire to the TPS wire on the PCM versus using an actual mechanical WOT switch. I just ordered an LS1 WOT switch from HSW so hopefully that fixes the issue. What do you guys think?
So I started up my car with the bottle open and then armed the nitrous system. I ran the RPMs up slowly to 3,000 RPM and low and behold it began spraying!!! I then ran through the programming process again for the switch and made sure that I had it at WOT during the step to set the TPS signal. (step 8 I believe). I then started the car again and ran the RPMs up to 3,000 and it sprayed again.
I have already sprayed a few times and no damage appears to have occurred. I believe this is because I made sure the pedal was to the floor when I had the system armed. The last couple of times that I sprayed it seemed to not hit very hard, but I believe that is because the bottle is only about 1/8 full and was at 800 PSI. Would that make it much weaker than a full bottle at the same PSI?
Below is the wiring diagram. As you can see I opted to connect the WOT wire to the TPS wire on the PCM versus using an actual mechanical WOT switch. I just ordered an LS1 WOT switch from HSW so hopefully that fixes the issue. What do you guys think?
From the picture you have two power sources coming in on #86 relay so the nitrous would activate all the time when you switch your main toggle energizing your relay. When hooking mine up i made my window switch, switch on and off the relays ground with an msd switch; and my switched power went to a WOT switch then from their to your power in on the relay. I don't know if in your case you can make your toggle switch energize your window switch then that could run current to your #86 only. Hopefully others will chime in.
The yellow wire is the ground for that set up. The tps/window switch box will send a ground signal to the relay thus sending power to the noid from the batt. He also doesnt have two power sources coming on the relay, the white wire is the power wire for the tps/window switch box. Its wire that way so that the realy and the box will both have power when its armed.
articwhite...when you set the box did you see a rise in voltage when you set it for your TPS. You should see like 4.6v, that tells the box to only work when it sees 4.6v plus what ever you set it at for the window switch.
I have one of these too and Im having some issues with mine aswell.
articwhite...when you set the box did you see a rise in voltage when you set it for your TPS. You should see like 4.6v, that tells the box to only work when it sees 4.6v plus what ever you set it at for the window switch.
I have one of these too and Im having some issues with mine aswell.
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Originally Posted by 99WS7
The yellow wire is the ground for that set up. The tps/window switch box will send a ground signal to the relay thus sending power to the noid from the batt. He also doesnt have two power sources coming on the relay, the white wire is the power wire for the tps/window switch box. Its wire that way so that the realy and the box will both have power when its armed.
articwhite...when you set the box did you see a rise in voltage when you set it for your TPS. You should see like 4.6v, that tells the box to only work when it sees 4.6v plus what ever you set it at for the window switch.
I have one of these too and Im having some issues with mine aswell.
articwhite...when you set the box did you see a rise in voltage when you set it for your TPS. You should see like 4.6v, that tells the box to only work when it sees 4.6v plus what ever you set it at for the window switch.
I have one of these too and Im having some issues with mine aswell.
I am not sure what my voltage is reading for the TPS signal. I am at work right now, but I will check it tomorrow morning and let you know.
Any ideas on what is wrong with my setup? Thanks.
Dennis
I would check where you've got your tach signal coming from, and also make sure the setting on the controller is correct for that pickup. If I recall, a different setting is used taking the signal from the input at the PCM, vs picking up one of the coil packs.
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Step 7 needs to be set to 002 if you are using the TPS activation...if you have step 7 set to 003 it will activate anytime the kit is armed and inside the RPM window.
Step 8 needs to read the same voltage as the TPS is seeing for the wire you have tapped into.
Step 8 needs to read the same voltage as the TPS is seeing for the wire you have tapped into.
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Originally Posted by Ray@Nitrous Outlet
Step 7 needs to be set to 002 if you are using the TPS activation...if you have step 7 set to 003 it will activate anytime the kit is armed and inside the RPM window.
Step 8 needs to read the same voltage as the TPS is seeing for the wire you have tapped into.
Step 8 needs to read the same voltage as the TPS is seeing for the wire you have tapped into.
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From: Richmond, VA Where fast cars, well......are hard to come by.
Are you sure you have the correct blue wire to the window switch tps wire? It looks like there're 3 wires on the blue connector that are the same color as the tps wire. Looks like it should be pin12 on http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=55
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Originally Posted by AzzHauler
Are you sure you have the correct blue wire to the window switch tps wire? It looks like there're 3 wires on the blue connector that are the same color as the tps wire. Looks like it should be pin12 on http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=55
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after you arm the system, what does your readout show. It should show 0 0 0. If your first digit is a 1 it is thinking the tps part is on. When you go into set up mode for tps the read out will show what it is seeing.
So to recap if all is set right, slowly increasing your throttle to the start of your window and NOT being at tps trip point. your read out would show 0 1 0.
the first digit is TPS
the second digit is 1st stage, and
the 3rd digit is your 2nd stage.
you see a 0 that feature is off
you see a 1 that feature is ON
you see a L that feature is in Lock out. this one only applies to the 2nd and 3rd digit.
hope this helps.
Ricky
So to recap if all is set right, slowly increasing your throttle to the start of your window and NOT being at tps trip point. your read out would show 0 1 0.
the first digit is TPS
the second digit is 1st stage, and
the 3rd digit is your 2nd stage.
you see a 0 that feature is off
you see a 1 that feature is ON
you see a L that feature is in Lock out. this one only applies to the 2nd and 3rd digit.
hope this helps.
Ricky
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
after you arm the system, what does your readout show. It should show 0 0 0. If your first digit is a 1 it is thinking the tps part is on. When you go into set up mode for tps the read out will show what it is seeing.
So to recap if all is set right, slowly increasing your throttle to the start of your window and NOT being at tps trip point. your read out would show 0 1 0.
the first digit is TPS
the second digit is 1st stage, and
the 3rd digit is your 2nd stage.
you see a 0 that feature is off
you see a 1 that feature is ON
you see a L that feature is in Lock out. this one only applies to the 2nd and 3rd digit.
hope this helps.
Ricky
So to recap if all is set right, slowly increasing your throttle to the start of your window and NOT being at tps trip point. your read out would show 0 1 0.
the first digit is TPS
the second digit is 1st stage, and
the 3rd digit is your 2nd stage.
you see a 0 that feature is off
you see a 1 that feature is ON
you see a L that feature is in Lock out. this one only applies to the 2nd and 3rd digit.
hope this helps.
Ricky
