Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Well i took off everything on my car and sold it to a friend. We hooked everything up. Everything seems to be right but the solenoids are not
firing.

The solenoids get power when the car is on and have fuel pressure and arming switch is on. So no problems there.

The Box comes on with the switch on.... and the red and yellow lights come on when he revs it past the 3000rpms.

Our test light says we are getting power from the fjo box to the solenoids instead of ground?? And the box is getting hot. Not sure if thats normal.

so of course with two powers going to the solenoids of course they wont fire. Why is the box giving power and not ground and what could be the problem.

THANKS!

Todd157k

iTrader: (5)

check out the write up I did today under "nitrous basics". It outlines possible problems and how to find them.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

but did you read my post? I already figured that the FPSS is working... the rpm swtich is working. I imagine the tps is working if the box send power after 3000 rpms... and the solenoids are getting power... the FJO box is supposed to ground the solenoids and instead of a ground, i get power.

what you said in your write up is no help to this problem.



dunno what the hell could be wrong!

Todd157k

iTrader: (5)

K. I'm looking at the schematics for the fjo mini controller. Yes, it should be supplying ground. Disconnect your solenoids from it and then measure if it is sending a ground or power out of the terminals. The box should not be getting hot. If you're getting 12v out of the Stage 1 & 2 solenoid terminals, check to make sure that high current ground is connected. If so, your box may be toast. Double check your wiring. They are very specific about separate grounds (as described in my write up).

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

The FJO box does controll the ground to the noids. FOR them to fire you have to see red or yellow and GREEN. Green is your TPS or WOT function. If you are measure a voltage on the ground wire it is coming through the coils at the noids, or triggle through the box. Which is no biggy becuase you need ground to fire the noid.
What is your TPS function set to.?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Maybe as simple as a bad ground, just use a jumper from batt to current ground location. You'll allways get a voltage reading at the ground out, as this is just a continuence of the voltage/current after it leaves the item using said power, this is why I think you may have a bad gound, or internal short. Electrical gremlins are allways fun.
Robert

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

just set to rising voltage (correct right?) and tapped in at the pcm

well i used the ground that pretty much everything is ground too on the car (could be the problem?). The box can't be toast.... i would hope not... it had been turned on in my car once. I never sprayed (just decided to go turbo).

If i change a couple grounds and it dont work... think FJO will warrenty this thing? I have had it for a year but this is basicly the first time it was gunna see duty...


the green light always stays lit. i only get a reading on the ground to the noids when its reved (so i imagine all that is in working order...)

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

electronics of today can be real picky when it comes to grounds. Try a nice ground to batt. Still this no guarantee of the issue, but maybe it is. electrical problems sometimes can be the hardest thing to diagnose on the web, for many reasons.
Robert

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

If your box has the black button on it? you have to program the unit.
The box will not fire unless you have a green and red or yellow.
Green tps
red and yellow are your stages 1 and 2.

Oh and do not put any low amp controll ground with hi amp grounds.

Sounds like the tps is not programed yet.

Ricky

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

well i was thinking it was possible that where i grounded it is the same ground for the pcm and such and the box is getting interference. It said in the manual to avoid using similar grounds.

plus i didn't adjust the lil potentiometer (no button on mine.. bought it a year ago) like i jsut read i need to. This be a problem? the green light is on all the time and its only supposed to come on at WOT correct? i think that would explain the problem....

but still dont explain why the box gets so damn warm... unless the green light being on constantly (box thinking its WOT) is getting it hot so fast.

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Ok take a screen shot of your programming and post it up, I need to see how you have it set up. If your box was set to rise and the green light is one sound like simple glitch.

You might need to give FJO a call on Monday. But I am betting it is something simple just over looked.

Ricky

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

well like i said i didn't know what that lil screw on the front of my box was for and all the manuals i read had a button. My unit is a ll in one uni but a year old. So not exactly like the new ones. so i need to turn that thing 25 turns and do the setup deal on the box.

but here is what he was gunna test with... once we verified it worked he was gunna do a run test with the 75 jets. tonight needs to be the night kids! its saterday and great weather. So lets spray tonight! lol


but here is what we're working with.. simple enough...

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Do you have 2 boxes or One box.
The software you are showing is for a 2 box set up.

have you confirmed your Yellow Led turns on at your on rpm on 3K?

Ricky

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

anyone see anything wrong with the programing???

im going to adjust the WOT thing here soon and change one ground to see what happens. But as far as everything now,
even with the tps not adjusted... with the green light on all the time wouldn't it still spray when it hits the correct rpms? because it thinks it is WOT all the time?

i jsut downloaded that software on my computer to show what we had... it is one box... but it one of the first ones they released with one box....

and both stages are coming on at 3000 rpms.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

welll i turned on the lil potentiometer for awhile and never got the green light to turn off. So i dont know what the problem is....

and i cannot get the new software drivers to work either... so the new software never see's the controller when it is plugged in.

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

My FJo Mini RPM multiplier is set" /2" or "divided by 2" for an LS1 based computer.

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

If it is a one box unit that looks to be the wrong software.
Man get ahold of FJO on Monday something is wrong big time here.
Ricky

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

well the two box software is what came with the fjo... and i can't get the new software drivers to work for my one box setup. I get the program, but the drivers wont work and the program does not reconize the FJO being plugged in.

With the old software that actully worked (so i thought), the green light is always lit and both stages do come on at the appropiate rpm... but im not getting any ground out of the fjo... i checked... no ground.. no click...

so could it be as simpe as having the two box software and needing the one box software to work?

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

talked to Tech at FJO and im going to try a few things today.... i need to see if i tapped into the correct wiring going into the pcm because the green light is always on no matter what i do.

Also got some tips to make the drivers work correctly so hopefully today we get it undre control and are spraying...

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

oh..

and here is the wiring diagram i made... worked on my car so nothing can/should be wrong with it?