Quickin

Say a big shot like a 300 progressive with a timing tuner during a roll race.

I guess what I need to know is: Can you lose an engine with any kind of failure of the nitrous system during a run?


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DopeFedZ

iTrader: (34)

Are you asking if the nitrous or fuel solenoid fails can you hurt your motor? If the fuel solenoid fails you are probably going to hurt something. Not sure what would happen if just the nitrous one failed. I guess your motor would probably bog really bad because of all the fuel. You can run a FPSS to avoid these probs.

GueSS Who

FPSS isn't going to avoid anything though.

If either solinoid fails it is not a good thing and can cause failure of multiple parts.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

rule of thumb: solenoids get stuck open or closed, you're gonna break something. I've seen a fuel solenoid get stuck open and flood the intake to the point the motor hydrolocked with fuel. Nitrous solenoid gets stuck open and you're blowing it up.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

The Wet Hits:
The fuel noid failure (staying closed, or partially closed) on wet hits is the biggest problem, and one of the reasons I don't like progressive controllers, cause they beat the hell out of the noids. With one prog run equal to full season of normal runs. Any way, you'll go way lean and an ensuing melt down, or parts breakage from super high temps and clyinder pressures.

Now if the fuel noid sticks open, on a wet hit, normally nothing happens if caught right away. There are scenerios where the fuel/vapor could ignite and cause an intake back fire.

Now if the n2o noid sticks open on a wet hit, you could have catastrophic failure again. You'll go way lean and an ensuing melt down can occure.

Now if the n2o noid sticks closed on a wet hit, again you fill the intake up with fuel/vapors and back fires are possible; many reason that can set these back fires off.


The Dry Hits:
Ok, now the noid n2o noid sticks open on a dry hit, well nothing happens normally, if ya know the sign. When the additional n2o is added the MAF still registers this and adds fuel accordingly. Then you'll see your rpms come up and stay up. When you open your bottle prior to a run, if the idle comes up a tad, or gets rough you have a leaking noid. If it sticks open on a run your rpms will not come down when letting off the gas.

Now if the noid sticks closed on a dry hit, what happens, nothing.

Robert

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

The reason i went dry

fastlt1

iTrader: (4)

You LS1 guys rule.

Zero4488

iTrader: (10)

Well either way, it's not good if something gets stuck open...but thats all the fun of running with spray...you take the risk...but like everyone said, Nitrous Selenoid is stuck open, you break. Unfortuately, if you run and your fuel selenoid doesn't open, again that a problem....

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

same here...

Quickin

I guess I should have mentioned I will not have a MAF, going SD tune, 105mm TB and a sheet metal intake. On top of a 454ci.

I must use a prog controller, I'll never get traction if it just hits all at once.

Can a dry shot be done that big, 300 shot progressively controlled with no MAF?

The question is than:
Is there any system out there, regardless of the cost, that will detect any type of negative failure and just save your engine by shutting everything or part of the system down?

If there is I'll get it, if there isn't.............**** nitrous. I'm not gonna lose a brand new $18,000 engine. I'll just go single turbo.

Thanks.


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Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Not really, on the dry just hit the button to close the bottle, or reach over and close it, no problems. You can do this cause you know the sign. I have had one stick open on a run and the rpms stayed up all the way back to the pits. Damage, zero, why, because additional fuel was being added. Went on to run the 1/4 all day. Actually the first sign, and I didn't get it, was during the burn out, when letting off the rpms didn't come right down, but progressively, and it did shut at that time.

The wet hit, unless you have a rich/lean controller to shut ya down, likely you will not know until something happens, read: breakage, meltdown.
Robert

CockerKid009

The only way a dry nitrous system works is with a MAF- The MAF detects all the oxygen coming in and adds fuel accordingly, that's how it works. Without a maf you'de just be shooting nitrous into the engine with no accomadating fuel, making it run extraordinarily lean and prob. breaking something.

Quickin

I didn't know if there was another way to use a dry shot without a MAF.

I can do a DP shot without a MAF though.

I just need to know if there's something out there that can 100% protect the engine in the event a component fails in the nitrous system.


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Robert56

iTrader: (2)

There are ways to run dry without a MAF, but why is the real question, unless going mega hit?
Check with the vendors as there are afew products that will cut the n2o if going lean or rich, a couple are NX/FJO, and Dyno Tune.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Not entirely true. There's the HSW interface that's coming out and there's this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/548010-speed-density-nitrous.html

Quickin

I don't want to use a dry shot. I want to use a direct port 300.

If there's a system that will save the day if anything fails, than I have found what I'm looking for. I'd like a system that will shut off the N20 and the FUEL at the same time if there's any problem.

Thanks.


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Robert56

iTrader: (2)

The first part of statement was directed to another post. The second part is relevant to your wants/needs and add HSW to the list. Check each site out and you'll find what ya want, except the HSW product, not on site yet, but a current thread all about it. Allthough a product that will save the day in all cases, not going to happen, so you may want to rethink drag racing as a hobby, cause is isn't a matter of breaking, but a matter of when.
Robert

Quickin

Well, thats the thing, I never ever drag race and I probably never will. Its a 100% street car that will have a nice new showcar quality paint job. I will only use the spray from a rolling start on the highway. If I was going to be a serious drag racer I wouldn't care about blowing up a ~$20,000 engine, I would expect it to happen at any time. I want this thing to last a couple years. I'm going on 6 years and 90,000 miles with my 436 stroker and she's purring like a kitten still. Now I want to take the next step and spray the new engine a little bit, but I also want it to last.

I'll look into the systems and see what I come up with, thanks.


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