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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 12:56 PM
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Default H/C with Nitrous in mind

The more i look at my back account the less I think I will be able to do the mods I currently want. So like some many other Ls1tech members I am looking into the Nitrous

I am putting new heads and cam on my LS1 and I am wanting to run a 100-150 shot of nitrous at the track. i know a N20 cam with hurt NA performance slightly but wake the motor up a little more when spraying. I have a few questions

1. Dual pattern standard split cams are good for nitrous but how much is too much. if 6 degree of difference is good is 8 degrees better. would a 220/236 just be a stupid cam period or would it actually help nitrous

2 This question is similar but it has to due with LSA. once again i know a wider angle (114) is suppose to be better then a 112 or 110 but again what about a 115 or 117?

I am going to probably get a custom nitrous cam unless some reccommends a good off the self one i like. I am just trying to get some more info together before i make the purchase
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 01:51 PM
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first of all READ THE STICKIES!!!! they will help you out immensly

second 150 shot is not going to make a difference on any cam. you can spary that on any cam without problems. only go with a nitrous cam if your spraying a 200+ shot.

thrid of all who told you that a higher lsa like a 114 or higher is "better?" you will get more performance out of a lobe separation that is lower (in most cases). look at tsp w/ their ms4... im pretty sure they got most performance out of it with a 110 or 111lsa (i think 111) jus my .02
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 02:47 PM
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I i meant a high LSA for nitrous use....not NA. I know NA will get more power with a lower number but i thought with N2O that the lower LSA wiill give more overlap which will allow nitrous to flow right out of the intrake and into the exhaust without ever being used fully
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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first ask your self how fast do i want to go and then you can start to put together your set up.I have a 347 in my T/A and with my combo it runs 11.30's on motor and 9.96 with a 200 shot and this is wiht full weight and it is very streetable.let me know if I could help you with anything.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 03:00 PM
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You arent building a nitrous race only motor so just build your motor around your NA goals and then juts spray on top of it. Any cam will respond good to nitrous, especially on a a small hit.

LSA itself means nothing, its the overall valve events that determine how the car will run. Its duration, LSA, ICL, and lift combined that will dictate how the engine will run. Dont get stuck on LSA numbers.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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Yea i have been doing some more research and it seems i should really build the best na car

I am also looking to boost my CR up to 11.5ish would this have any ill effects on nitrous?
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 05:30 PM
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that's what I was running befor 11.5:1 when I ran the 9.96 on nitrous and 11.30's on motor.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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So is 11.5to 1 a good place did u wish u would have gone higher/lower? What was your complete setup anyways it sounds like u had it really working for ya
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 07:06 AM
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How fast do you want to go, and do you daily drive the car? The thing is that the more power you make on motor the less you have to spray to get to your goal, maybe a 100 shot instead of a 150. If you drive the car on the street alot and want good manners, you may want to try to aim for a more streetable setup and spray the 150 to it.

11.5 to 1 will remain pump gas friendly, probably even with the nitrous, if you start pushing it higher you will probably have to, ro at least should add soem race gas into the picture to help prevent detonation with the nitrous on. If you are going to run a standalone, you can run teh compression a little higher and keep race gas in the little tank, another option.

If you know the specific power level/ET you are looking to run, it will help alot with reccommendations.

One thing to keep in mind, the tune is critical to keeping a stock bottom end alive, that being said do you have a good local tuner/shop? If ya do, you may want to start with him, if that's who is going to be tunign your car, his part reccommendations should be taken into account, chances are he's seen stuff that works and stuff that did not.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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I run like 12:1 on pump 93 and it works good. Tighten up the quench area and it will help in preventing pinging.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:43 AM
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i my goal is 600 or more on spray. I do have a guy here to do all my tuning and i will talk to him as well and get his thoughts. This car is not daily driven. I have thought about a stand alone system where is a good place to see some and how much do they run?

Thanks
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 01:57 AM
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I like my HSW standalone alot. Theyre a sponsor here if you wanna check it out
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 04:49 AM
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You are planning on a forged bottom end I hope, pushing a stock shortblock to 600 rw is not gonna last long if it takes it at all.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 07:55 AM
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well the 600 would not be all the time only at the track every now and then. i don;t even know if i can get 600 with it yet i think i can at least get 575 though and hopfully 600. but i am not hoping for 425-455 without N20 and that number would be able to last a long time on the motor...unless i get stupid at the track and blow it up

I am also looking at a 408 iron motor right now but i might have missed out on it...would love to get it though....a forged internal iron block would laugh at 600
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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With nitrous it only takes one run to find a weak link..... I'd seriously think about doing a forged shortblock at the same time if you want to make 600 rw with nitrous, the stock motor isn't gonna take it long. Ask the guys on here that have done it/tried it, they don't usually do it for all too long.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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what ends up letting go? I know the rods should not have a problem and the crank is also suppose to be capable of handeling it so it is the piston or maybe the rob bolts
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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it's the rod bolts, pistons and the rods eventually. The stock crank is fine up to about 900rw as far as I know. The main problems are the pistons, the ring lands aren't strong enough and the rings also break, next would have to be the rod bolts, then the rods themselves.

If you have the funds, I'd suggest doing it all at once and be done with it, in the long run you probably won't regret it. If a piston goes, it can take teh head with it and whatnot, so mine as well do them before you take a chance wrecking teh good heads you put on the motor.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
You are planning on a forged bottom end I hope, pushing a stock shortblock to 600 rw is not gonna last long if it takes it at all.
Theres a few people on here who actually have pushed them at those power levels with nitrous for a long time, hopefully a few of them will chime in with some good info.
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