The New HSW Interface Air to Fuel & Timing Controller
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Robert
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this was not the case. it made more power and more torque through the whole run. i chose to leave a little less timing on spray since i am still running a stock botom end (even though it would clearly be quicker with more timing). there was no detanation on either run.
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Robert
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I wasn't trying to say you wouldn't also make more tq. Rather, that peak numbers do not always tell the whole story. I can gurantee you that a race car will generally not make more power or run quicker with more timing and bigger hits. Some run their best numbers and ETs with like 8° to 10° total timing, and/or pull additional timing through out the run. Our quickest dry car on this site runs 10°, IIRC. There has been a long standing belief that we want to run the most timing we can until detonation, not true. The real way, is run timing up until peak power n/a, and no more, then remove timing for the spray. Detonation should not be the goal when setting timing, and I am not saying this is what you did, but just for information purposes.
Robert
Robert
thats cool but your first post is kinda miss leading.
#206
thanks for the bump robert i appreciate it.
HSW im still confused on timing with this unit can you possibly give me a run down on the phone of how my settings should be ?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....21&postcount=4
HSW im still confused on timing with this unit can you possibly give me a run down on the phone of how my settings should be ?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....21&postcount=4
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thanks for the bump robert i appreciate it.
HSW im still confused on timing with this unit can you possibly give me a run down on the phone of how my settings should be ?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....21&postcount=4
HSW im still confused on timing with this unit can you possibly give me a run down on the phone of how my settings should be ?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....21&postcount=4
Now, in post #154, I take the stock table and choose 158° as my target temp with dip switch settings as per directions. OK, now we know anytime we spray we will be going to the 158° column. So, the stock 4° was not enough pull for my big hit, and I then change 4° to 12° all the way down the column. When ever I spray the PCM will see the target 158° column and pull what ever timing is in the boxes, which in my case is 12°.
one thing to point out. The temp is across the top and corresponds to the boxes below it all the way to the bottom. The g/cyl on the side starts at .08 (low air flow or load) and as you go down the page it increases all the way to 1.20 (highest flow or demand). You can view the g/cyl as the RPMs as they climb, and the temps from cold to hot as the motor warms up and or over heats. I choose 158° just because it will never be running there when i am spraying or racing.
Does this help clarify anything? Or do you have a different concern/question? The only reason I am helping is cause it's Sunday and HSW is at church, not because I am in bed with them, lol.
Robert
Last edited by Robert56; 04-27-2008 at 06:24 PM.
#209
The car this is acutally being done on is a frc vette with an ls6 motor in it. So thats where im kinda confused as to what my settings are going to be. I want to spray a 250 shot at the forged motor and want to be able to pull 10 degrees for it, with no timing pulled on the n/a tune of course.
So am i understand this correctlty. Could i set my iat for 158 per the tuner as well as be able to set that iat for 10 degrees of timing retard? Then with all the timing retard switchs on it would equal to 15 on the interface itself and pull 10 degrees? And if i wanted more i could just set it for a diffrent iat (ex:167) and set it at 12 degrees to be pulled? Am i on the right track at least lol?
So am i understand this correctlty. Could i set my iat for 158 per the tuner as well as be able to set that iat for 10 degrees of timing retard? Then with all the timing retard switchs on it would equal to 15 on the interface itself and pull 10 degrees? And if i wanted more i could just set it for a diffrent iat (ex:167) and set it at 12 degrees to be pulled? Am i on the right track at least lol?
#210
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The car this is acutally being done on is a frc vette with an ls6 motor in it. So thats where im kinda confused as to what my settings are going to be. I want to spray a 250 shot at the forged motor and want to be able to pull 10 degrees for it, with no timing pulled on the n/a tune of course.
So am i understand this correctlty. Could i set my iat for 158 per the tuner as well as be able to set that iat for 10 degrees of timing retard? Then with all the timing retard switchs on it would equal to 15 on the interface itself and pull 10 degrees? And if i wanted more i could just set it for a diffrent iat (ex:167) and set it at 12 degrees to be pulled? Am i on the right track at least lol?
So am i understand this correctlty. Could i set my iat for 158 per the tuner as well as be able to set that iat for 10 degrees of timing retard? Then with all the timing retard switchs on it would equal to 15 on the interface itself and pull 10 degrees? And if i wanted more i could just set it for a diffrent iat (ex:167) and set it at 12 degrees to be pulled? Am i on the right track at least lol?
Now, when you get more comfortable with your tuner program, you will be able to see where your motor's torque peak is compared to your Cylinder Air Mass. You can log g/cyl and also rpm, then by looking at a dyno sheet you can see exactly where torque peak is vs RPM. Why is this important? Well to get the highest volumetric efficiency we can do a custom timing curve for the spray. What we want to do basically is to have the most timing we need pulled at the torque peak, then we can add a little bit back into the run as we gain rpm past the known TQ peak all the way to red line. This will in fact give us our best power over all and can result in a quicker run using the same size shot, we will just be using it more efficiently. Hope i didn't get you confused by adding this, but it's something to consider in the future. I currently have 3-timing pull curves set up for my motor using the Interface. I can clarify this a little better if you would like.
By the way, we all learned this stuff somewhere, no one was born knowing it all, though there are some that claim to have invented the wheel on this site (he knows whom he is), lol. So, don't worry, I still seek what ever it is I need to know at the time, it's a long learning curve for all of us hobby tuners. Any questions you have, and ask, actually help hundreds out there, so anything you want to know, just ask.
Robert
Last edited by Robert56; 04-27-2008 at 10:48 PM.
#211
Robert, that helped a TON. I understand now exactly what is going on for the basics or most part i should say.
You are exactly right it is one big learning experience lol
Sorry about that i didnt mean 15* on the interface i ment the dip switchs adding up to 15 on the interface.
Thanks again i actually understand how this thing works now LOL. The way you explained it above made it a lot simpler and im sure a lot of people will be able to understand the timing portion a lot better.
You are exactly right it is one big learning experience lol
Sorry about that i didnt mean 15* on the interface i ment the dip switchs adding up to 15 on the interface.
Thanks again i actually understand how this thing works now LOL. The way you explained it above made it a lot simpler and im sure a lot of people will be able to understand the timing portion a lot better.
#214
Robert Do You Use The Iat Modifer Tables To Adjust Timeing Pulled By The Interface When Setting Up Your Timeing Curves...?
Also Calis I Think You Could Piggyback 2 Interfaces Or Just Tune For Your Small Shot And Use The Interface For The Bigger Hit..
Also Calis I Think You Could Piggyback 2 Interfaces Or Just Tune For Your Small Shot And Use The Interface For The Bigger Hit..
#215
Alos Not To Keep Revisiting This Argument But My Interface Has Trouble Holding The Specified Iat Matter Of Fact When Setting The Unit For 158 The Most I Ever Got Was 156 And It Was Semi Irratic (with A Soidered Iat Wire)...
This Is What Lead Me To Pull The Unit(will This And The Fact That The Stock Iat Becomes Heatsoaked So Easily That I Found My Self Running A Nearly Full Time N20 Tune Just By Setting N20 Settings For A Iat Of 158
Im Gonna Go Back And "re Try" The Interface On My 5 Wire Maf In Hopes That The Iat Buld Location Change Will Provide Better Protection Against Iat Heatsoak .. This Being Said I Still Cant Figure Out Why I Couldent Get The Unit To Hold A Constant Iat
This Is What Lead Me To Pull The Unit(will This And The Fact That The Stock Iat Becomes Heatsoaked So Easily That I Found My Self Running A Nearly Full Time N20 Tune Just By Setting N20 Settings For A Iat Of 158
Im Gonna Go Back And "re Try" The Interface On My 5 Wire Maf In Hopes That The Iat Buld Location Change Will Provide Better Protection Against Iat Heatsoak .. This Being Said I Still Cant Figure Out Why I Couldent Get The Unit To Hold A Constant Iat
#216
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Alos Not To Keep Revisiting This Argument But My Interface Has Trouble Holding The Specified Iat Matter Of Fact When Setting The Unit For 158 The Most I Ever Got Was 156 And It Was Semi Irratic (with A Soidered Iat Wire)...
This Is What Lead Me To Pull The Unit(will This And The Fact That The Stock Iat Becomes Heatsoaked So Easily That I Found My Self Running A Nearly Full Time N20 Tune Just By Setting N20 Settings For A Iat Of 158
Im Gonna Go Back And "re Try" The Interface On My 5 Wire Maf In Hopes That The Iat Buld Location Change Will Provide Better Protection Against Iat Heatsoak .. This Being Said I Still Cant Figure Out Why I Couldent Get The Unit To Hold A Constant Iat
This Is What Lead Me To Pull The Unit(will This And The Fact That The Stock Iat Becomes Heatsoaked So Easily That I Found My Self Running A Nearly Full Time N20 Tune Just By Setting N20 Settings For A Iat Of 158
Im Gonna Go Back And "re Try" The Interface On My 5 Wire Maf In Hopes That The Iat Buld Location Change Will Provide Better Protection Against Iat Heatsoak .. This Being Said I Still Cant Figure Out Why I Couldent Get The Unit To Hold A Constant Iat
By the way, did you ever clean your IAT sensor, maybe it was a bit dirty?
Robert
#217
The Iat Works Fine Under Cursing Conditions.. Just In The Hot *** Fl Weather..the Stock F-body Iat Location Allows For The Iat To Get Real Hot And I Think Its Kind Of Out Side The Main Airflow Path So It Takes A Good 2-3 Min Of Driving To Cool It Back Off... The End Result Is On A Hot Day If You Sit At A Stoplight For Too Long Your Start To Reach The 140-160 Range And Even After Leaving The Light It Still Takes A Min To Cool Back Down, During This Time You Begin To Pull Timeing (this Is Not So Noticeable With The Stock Iat Table And Its Modifer But When You Set Up The Iat Advance Table For -6 Spark Thought The Rpm Band It Really Sucks)
Anayway I Believe The Iat Will Be Less Prone To Heatsoak When Located Inside The Maf And Accordingly Have Ditched The Stock Iat Sensor For A 5 Wire Maf Setup.. Im Gonna Do Some Logging Here And I'll Let You Know What I Find....
Also On The Interface It Wiuld Be Helpful If I Could Get It To Hotter Iat ( Say 190+, Or Even -40) ... This Would Ensure Im Not Pulling Timeing Due To Heatsoak
Anayway I Believe The Iat Will Be Less Prone To Heatsoak When Located Inside The Maf And Accordingly Have Ditched The Stock Iat Sensor For A 5 Wire Maf Setup.. Im Gonna Do Some Logging Here And I'll Let You Know What I Find....
Also On The Interface It Wiuld Be Helpful If I Could Get It To Hotter Iat ( Say 190+, Or Even -40) ... This Would Ensure Im Not Pulling Timeing Due To Heatsoak
#218
The Iat Works Fine Under Cursing Conditions.. Just In The Hot *** Fl Weather..the Stock F-body Iat Location Allows For The Iat To Get Real Hot And I Think Its Kind Of Out Side The Main Airflow Path So It Takes A Good 2-3 Min Of Driving To Cool It Back Off... The End Result Is On A Hot Day If You Sit At A Stoplight For Too Long Your Start To Reach The 140-160 Range And Even After Leaving The Light It Still Takes A Min To Cool Back Down, During This Time You Begin To Pull Timeing (this Is Not So Noticeable With The Stock Iat Table And Its Modifer But When You Set Up The Iat Advance Table For -6 Spark Thought The Rpm Band It Really Sucks)
Anayway I Believe The Iat Will Be Less Prone To Heatsoak When Located Inside The Maf And Accordingly Have Ditched The Stock Iat Sensor For A 5 Wire Maf Setup.. Im Gonna Do Some Logging Here And I'll Let You Know What I Find....
Also On The Interface It Wiuld Be Helpful If I Could Get It To Hotter Iat ( Say 190+, Or Even -40) ... This Would Ensure Im Not Pulling Timeing Due To Heatsoak
Anayway I Believe The Iat Will Be Less Prone To Heatsoak When Located Inside The Maf And Accordingly Have Ditched The Stock Iat Sensor For A 5 Wire Maf Setup.. Im Gonna Do Some Logging Here And I'll Let You Know What I Find....
Also On The Interface It Wiuld Be Helpful If I Could Get It To Hotter Iat ( Say 190+, Or Even -40) ... This Would Ensure Im Not Pulling Timeing Due To Heatsoak
Just curious but why would it pull timing regardless. If you are just driving around and it begins to get heat soaked the interface wouldnt kick in anyway would it? Not unless you had your nitrous activation switch on right?
#219
Because The Interface Tricks The Stock Computer To Believe The Car Is Sucking In 158 Deg Air So When You Modify Your Pcm To Pull -6 Deg Of Timeing For A Iat Of 158 And Your Iat Actually Reaches This Temp You Will Pull The Timeing
The Main Difference Between The Interface Other Timeing Devices Is That The Interface Works To Trick The Pcm To Pull Timeing While Other Devices Do It Mechanically
The Main Difference Between The Interface Other Timeing Devices Is That The Interface Works To Trick The Pcm To Pull Timeing While Other Devices Do It Mechanically
#220
Even So The "main Reason" I Pulled This Device Is That I Would Not Consistently Pull The Desired Timeing Because It Couldent Hold A Specfied Iat (even With The Wire Soidered To The Iat Wire)
Looking Back This Problem Could Be As Simple As A Bad Ground In The Harness But After Thinking It I Decided It Was Just Safer To Run A N20 Tune All The Time..
Looking Back This Problem Could Be As Simple As A Bad Ground In The Harness But After Thinking It I Decided It Was Just Safer To Run A N20 Tune All The Time..