Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Maybe HSW could come in here. Seems to me you've hit the nail on the head. It's not targeting the IAT of 158° unless you have activated the Interface and it takes over, and the only way to do this is to have the system armed and go WOT.
Robert

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

That is correct. You really don't want to modify the entire temp row in the IAT table if you want to pull more timing. You will want to target the correct MAP or cylinder airmass cells for when the N2O system is active and the vehicle is @ WOT.

Matt

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

I Wish It Was That Simple..

But Again If Your Iat Is Heatsoaked Even If You Tell It To Only Pull timing At A Certain Airmass Or Rpm You Still Are Stuck With A Heat Soaked Iat............ Accordingly Your Still Commanding For The Unit To Pull Timing (even If Its Only At Higher Airmasses Or Rpms)

The Problem Again Guys Is Lets Say Im Sitting At A Long Light (or Stageing Lane) And The Iat Becomes Heatsoaked (which Dosent Take Long) When I Go To Leave The Light It Will Take Over 1 Min To Cool Back Down......... Therefore If I Go To Leave A Light At Wot (off The Bottle) Im Still Gonna Hit The Higher Airmass\rpm Cells And Accordingly I Will Be Only Running N20 Timeing.. Although This Is Not A Huge Deal It Kinda Defeats The Purpose Of Using The Interface (over Just Running A N20 Tune)

also if your gonna go as far as to build a airmass based tune you really dont have a use for the interface anymore.. as i could just go into the main spark table and pull timeing by airmass

if the interface could command a higher iat or even a iat of -40 it would be far less likely that it would be hit unless the unit was activated

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

also check your instructions they have a photo of the entire temp row being modified...

i personally chose to just use that iat vs rpm modifer to controll the interface but both of these are just band-aides that still bring you the the eventual conclusion that

for the interface to work properly on f-cars you need to resolve the heat soak issue and use custom tuneing

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

common now i know you know better than that ...the iat gets heatsoaked from the underhood radiating heat and your iat reads 158 even with out a interface..

the only reason this is not so noticeable normally is that
1: the iat can only pull a max of 3 deg
2: the iat vs rpm modifer is set to fade this out as you increase rpms

when you go to modify your iat table to pull timeing for a decent sized shot these problems come to light....

the only reason this is related to the interface is that using a resistor mod you can command higher iat's that you dont hit while the interfaces inablity to command higher iats leaves it unable to be properly used in a f-car without suffering other complications

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

No, cylinder airmass will change between NA and when the Interface activates the N2O kit, or N2O hits the MAF. The red line is just to show the column of data, you can modify the whole column if you want to, it is not ideal. The instructions for the Interface don't go into how the tune should be performed; they go over how the Interface relates to the table. It's up to the person performing the "tune" to do so correctly.

Matt

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

So the bottom line for those that are concerned with the couple minutes of heat sink, JP (remember it will cool down once you get moving, and your not drag racing in city driving anyway, so who cares if you get the timing pulled for a minute n/a), is to log your MAF while spraying. Then you can see when the MAF is actually needing the timing pull IE: when spraying only. The math is in my web site for converting any MAF flow to g/Cyl as is used in the IAT vs Cylinder Airmass look up table. Then you won't be pulling timing crusing as your new commanded pull will be only in the upper reaches of the g/cyl column, pretty simple really. When I finish my write up I will show exactly how to do this for the advanced tuners whom would like to make this fine tune adjustment.

I can't think of a time when my IAT has come anywhere near 158°, maybe a true CAI that pulls ambient air, and there are some on the market for the F-body isn't there? there are numerous CAI that pull ambient for the Vettes. Anyway, some more good info that points out some of the fine tuning that can be done, and a good tuner would know this right off the bat, yes, I missed it, but am only a hobby tuner and still learning also, but feel that I do have a pretty good grasp on things. JP, wish you were close by, I would love to help get things sorted out, kind of a challenege as your IAT moving may be the answer as I know others have moved it for various reasons.
Robert
Robert

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

Im Gonna Do Some 5 Wire Maf Testing I Think This Would Elimnate The Fbody Iat Heatsoak Issue..

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

Just As Suspected The Iat's In The Maf Are 1000x Better At Dealing With Heatsoak.. Hell They Dont Even Get Heatsoaked

Im Telling Ya' The Air Lid Iat Sensor Just Cooks And It Only Takes A Couple Of Secconds.. Also Once Its Hot It Stays Hot For Like 2-3 Min Of Driving Its A Huge Difference From The 5 Wire Maf Setup

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

This picture off of HSW's website is confusing...



Obviously the bottom two plugs are to plug into the MAF and IAT...and I'm guessing the other one goes to the interface?

What do the old MAF and IAT plugs plug into?

PAGregSS

iTrader: (10)

The two bottom plugs are for the MAF. The right most plug goes into the MAF and the plug from the MAF plugs into the plug on the left. You splice into the IAT wiring. The top most plug goes into the interface. The additional lead is a triggered ground for activating the nitrous system.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Just for information purposes and to see the difference between the 3-wire and 5-wire MAF; here's a picture of the wiring harness with the Interface plugged in for the 85mm 5-Pin MAF. The bottom 2-plugs are the in/out at the MAF plug in (unplug existing MAF plug, new harness plugs into each side, male/female). The top plug is already plugged into the Interface. The remaining un terminated wires are the trigger wires: to window switch, PCM and arming switch. So very, very simple to hook this bad boy up.

Robert

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

So is the HP rating flywheel or rear wheel?