How and why does someone run 3 stages? I'm curious, so please explain. Thanks!!!!

 

Traction I would think.

 

1st stage (75)-60ft

2nd stage(100)-as soon as 2nd gear hits

3rd stage(125)-after 3rd gear.


Thats how I would run a 3 stage 300 shot. But it would be waaaayy simpler with a progressive. .02

 

traction and much easier on the motor

I think MadMan had 5 stages on his car before

 

yea but aren't progressive controllers horrible for the solenoids?

 

I have used multiple stages and progressve. I liked the multi stage better. I used first stage out of the hole and sparayed it through the shifts. Second off the window switch, bring it on ASAP in first as traction allows and on right after shifts. I wanted to use a third that would come on at 6200rpm to keep the % of nitrous in the cylinders the same as it is at the lower RPM. The progressive seems to be harder to bring in in a manner that will hookup at the start them come on in a manner that will hook up. I have the NX maximizer

 

usually 3rd stage is a FINAL round stage when your racing for the big money

 

3-stages here, traction, independent rear, and wanting to run big HP and keep overall torque in check. Having some of your total shot coming in in the higher RPMs will keep the tq down and that can help your 60'er and breakage of suspension parts. look at some of the dyno curves, some have massive tq spikes down low, and some have tq that doesn't get much higher than HP. It's all in how you want to run, and of course your individual set-up. Hit the biggest shot you can out of the hole for quickest ETs. I have some dyno overlays of a older setup I was running, it follows a turbos curves allmost exactly, a dual stage with a couple other tricks.
Robert

 

ive heard the controllers are bad but im going to try it anyway i have 2 stages now but its seems easyer and more functions with the controller

 

Like said above it's a lot easier on the solenoids. Progressive controllers work by turning them on and off quickly.

 

i have always liked just one big stage right out of the hole. it keeps thing simple.

 

I prefer stages. I like to to turn them on as quick as possible. A car we just finished has a 408 sbc in a 1996 Camaro with stock style suspension and a 28" hoosier slick. 2 stages. First stage is a plate with a 200shot, second is a fogger with a 300 shot. We leave on the plate and I turn on the fogger anywhere from 4-8 hundreths out.

 

Theres a maf kit that has 2 stages correct? If there is, how about Daves plate kit (100shot) coming on about 3200 to help flash the 3600 Yank a little higher. Then, once in second gear have the second stage (75 maf shot) come on and as soon as possible, maybe 1/2 second or so, another (75 maf shot)? Am I making this more complicated than it has to be? Like just use a 125shot right away and another 125shot, once I hit second? Thanks for any help. I appreciate the input.

 

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Traction is probably the most common, as said. You can also run more HP & get away with a weak link. Rolling is much easier on parts when you get the shock on your system. On really big hits, 1000+ HP it's too hard trying to make everything live, even on a car with the best of everything.

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The optimum is to get the car to leave on as much as possible then keep adding power as you get out. I dont like turning on any kits past the 330ft mark. Everything should be on by that point.

 

Thanks Madman. Doing it as you say, 2 stages or 3? 250rwhp through a plate and maf kit OK? Lower, higher? I already have one nano kit, yet to be installed and would get another if need be.

 

You can do as many as you like. I have run up to 4 stages.

 

I know the 10.5 tire guys love lots of stages. There's a KOTH car running around here, 832ci, 3 stages of nitrous, and a Lenco I think. Runs 4.20s on a good track. More adjustability for different tracks too. Some shitty tracks that dont have alot of traction, you can pill down your first stage and pill up your later stages

 

Yea, the progressives can be a little buggy. The pulse rate between a nitrous noid and a fuel noid will be different, and this in of itself can be a nightmare for tuning and consistency. Think about it, one pass with a progressive will equal a full season or more of staged runs, concerning wear and tear on noids (open/close, open/close). Not the best scenario for safety and engine longevity. If your serious, meaning more of a track car, i would stick with what has been suggested-multi stage. A progressive is prob fine for a street car that sees occasional track duty.

Some good info handed out by some in the know.

Robert

 

Thanks guys!!!! So would it be ok to spray 250rwhp with a plate and maf kit. I really don't want to start over again with a direct port system.