SY732

I get a quick lean condition when the spray first comes on, the main problem I think is the leangth of my lines form the noids to the Plate

N20 is 4'
Fuel is 3.5'

I do not want to shorten the Fuel side anymore, any other Ideas?

I just installed a progressive controller which makes it worse???

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, nitrous at 950psi tends to travel a little quicker than fuel at whatever your system is at.

Why 4' of line between the solenoids and plate?

built408

iTrader: (10)

4' I bet that hits pretty hard... How lean is it getting and how long does it take to level out?

SY732

I wanted them out of the way in a cooler spot I had problems with them mounted near the fuel rails, we think the N20 noid got too hot and would not open.

One quick (.3-.5) spike to 17-20 but no KR

Details 57/32 jets 1000psi 103's and 100 octane

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

Just FYI too...If the car goes overly rich the wideband will read dead lean...Which could explain why it goes dead lean but doesn't have any KR or anything.

Ever check the plugs for detonation? Does the car smoke bad on the initial hit?

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

But I think it's the line length.

You have 950-1000 psi of liquid/gas racing 58 psi of fuel. Not only that, but the nitrous orfice(jet) has a bigger area and flows more...So not only do you have 16 times the pressure, the jet is allowing it to flow through that line quicker than the fuel side.

I think you need to go back to some ~9" lines. I've never seen a solenoid get too hot from being in that area. I've run mine on my carb'd car right above the intake. I've seen LS1 cars with solenoids all around the TB area, with brackets mounted to the front of the head, etc.

But with ~9" lines not only will it hit quicker and harder, but in the event you get a lean spike it'll be much quicker and more minute.

BOTTLEFEDLS1Z

iTrader: (32)

The problem is the regulator is at the back in the tank and needs to be up front. Your draining the rails on the initial hit because of this. Buy a standalone and use that to feed the fuel noid or do a return style fuel system.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I agree.
Robert

SY732

Plugs look good to me and no bad smoke.


But I have fuel rail covers that keep the heat in, I never had a problem with them removed.

I have a 6' feed line from the rail to the fuel noid thought that would be enough extra volume?

How can I test if it is lack of pressure vs length of the lines?

I would love a stand alone but I dont want to cut the car up, and its $$$ for the C6.

If I ran a stand alone what octane would I need with 91 in the main tank?

1 QUIK LS1

iTrader: (4)

I have a stand alone spraying 175 shot on a bolt on Z,and run 110 in it.93 in the car itself.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

That 6 foot line is likely one your enemies here. The reason the reg needs to be at the rail is not volume related but rather time. meaning, once the system requires more fuel/volume, like the noid opening, the drop has to travel to the tanks area, then an adjustment in the reg needs to be done, then the new volume has to travel back to the rails. A long trip as it is, plus the added 6'. You can put a temp fuel pressure gauge hooked up to line in engine bay and tie wrap to the wipers to watch. You will likely see a drop in pressure at activation, then it will recover to normal pressure and this indicates that the reg needs to be at the rails, it just can't keep up, or respond fast enough. You can do a few things besides a standalone to address this issue as well as running out of pump, which you will see as a pressure drop at highest load, like towards red line and/or at the end of a ¼ run. Check my personal tuning web site for some options on upgrading the fuel system. even though the first write is directed towards a Vette, it certainly applies to the F-bodies as well. One other thing, an A/F gauge can also be used to determine the fuel system abilites, going lean then recovering is reg, going lean at end of run is capacity.
Robert

SY732

Hmm I thought the extra volume would help should I move the noid back to the fuel rail?

I have a dynotune LM1 the longer I spray the richer it gets I have loged it all the way to 180 06 C6 6l80

One quick (.3-.5sec) spike to 17-20 but no KR wideband is in the drivers side collector

860 Performance

iTrader: (1)

Check out this thread, it worked great on a direct port, but I never tried it on a single fogger system, it might be over-kill for that.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...744&highlight=

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

Maybe try upping the fuel jet? Had to do that with my plate kit...

SY732

I am jetted for 11.0 since I do standing mile

SY732

So do I need to add a second FPSS or can I move mine?

And I need to rewire it so the nitrous noids ground goes through it? then to my progressive controller?

860 Performance

iTrader: (1)

Oh, I just noticed you have a progressive controller. Unfortunetly, you can't do that with a progressive controller.
If you ditch the progressive, and wire it like this, I'm sure you lean spike will be eliminated though.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I would dump the 6' line and make the line after the noid as short as possible also. You can also get rid of the lean spike by overwhelming system with dual in tank pumps, it's enough that you won't fall off at activation. Getting richer is an indicate that your fuel system is catching up and fuel pump is currently adequate. generally, if the lean Spike is less than 1/2 second no worry, but getting rid of it would be better. Myself, I tuned mine like Vinnies, except a different route, to get rid of spike all together.
Robert

SY732

Thanks for all the input I may leanghthen the N20 line first and see if that helps, if it does I will move the Noids closer to the Plate.

If the Fuel line 20" how long should the N20 line be 26-30"? so that the N and F get there at close to the same time?

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

So you have 6' between the rail and the noid, and 3.5' after the noid? That's pretty ridiculous sounding. I can't see there being any reason at all for that.

Why not run normal length lines and not try to reinvent the wheel or whatever it is you're trying to do? And if need be, purge both the nitrous and the fuel before the run. I used to spray the kit for a few seconds rolling out of the burnout. That way the fuel and nitrous is at the solenoids and ready to go. No lean spike.