How to decrease my lean condition on the initial hit?
#1
How to decrease my lean condition on the initial hit?
I get a quick lean condition when the spray first comes on, the main problem I think is the leangth of my lines form the noids to the Plate
N20 is 4'
Fuel is 3.5'
I do not want to shorten the Fuel side anymore, any other Ideas?
I just installed a progressive controller which makes it worse???
N20 is 4'
Fuel is 3.5'
I do not want to shorten the Fuel side anymore, any other Ideas?
I just installed a progressive controller which makes it worse???
#4
Details 57/32 jets 1000psi 103's and 100 octane
Last edited by SY732; 04-26-2008 at 06:23 PM.
#5
Just FYI too...If the car goes overly rich the wideband will read dead lean...Which could explain why it goes dead lean but doesn't have any KR or anything.
Ever check the plugs for detonation? Does the car smoke bad on the initial hit?
Ever check the plugs for detonation? Does the car smoke bad on the initial hit?
#6
But I think it's the line length.
You have 950-1000 psi of liquid/gas racing 58 psi of fuel. Not only that, but the nitrous orfice(jet) has a bigger area and flows more...So not only do you have 16 times the pressure, the jet is allowing it to flow through that line quicker than the fuel side.
I think you need to go back to some ~9" lines. I've never seen a solenoid get too hot from being in that area. I've run mine on my carb'd car right above the intake. I've seen LS1 cars with solenoids all around the TB area, with brackets mounted to the front of the head, etc.
But with ~9" lines not only will it hit quicker and harder, but in the event you get a lean spike it'll be much quicker and more minute.
You have 950-1000 psi of liquid/gas racing 58 psi of fuel. Not only that, but the nitrous orfice(jet) has a bigger area and flows more...So not only do you have 16 times the pressure, the jet is allowing it to flow through that line quicker than the fuel side.
I think you need to go back to some ~9" lines. I've never seen a solenoid get too hot from being in that area. I've run mine on my carb'd car right above the intake. I've seen LS1 cars with solenoids all around the TB area, with brackets mounted to the front of the head, etc.
But with ~9" lines not only will it hit quicker and harder, but in the event you get a lean spike it'll be much quicker and more minute.
#7
I get a quick lean condition when the spray first comes on, the main problem I think is the leangth of my lines form the noids to the Plate
N20 is 4'
Fuel is 3.5'
I do not want to shorten the Fuel side anymore, any other Ideas?
I just installed a progressive controller which makes it worse???
N20 is 4'
Fuel is 3.5'
I do not want to shorten the Fuel side anymore, any other Ideas?
I just installed a progressive controller which makes it worse???
The problem is the regulator is at the back in the tank and needs to be up front. Your draining the rails on the initial hit because of this. Buy a standalone and use that to feed the fuel noid or do a return style fuel system.
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#8
#9
I think you need to go back to some ~9" lines. I've never seen a solenoid get too hot from being in that area. I've run mine on my carb'd car right above the intake. I've seen LS1 cars with solenoids all around the TB area, with brackets mounted to the front of the head, etc.
How can I test if it is lack of pressure vs length of the lines?
I would love a stand alone but I dont want to cut the car up, and its $$$ for the C6.
If I ran a stand alone what octane would I need with 91 in the main tank?
#10
Plugs look good to me and no bad smoke.
But I have fuel rail covers that keep the heat in, I never had a problem with them removed.
I have a 6' feed line from the rail to the fuel noid thought that would be enough extra volume?
How can I test if it is lack of pressure vs length of the lines?
I would love a stand alone but I dont want to cut the car up, and its $$$ for the C6.
If I ran a stand alone what octane would I need with 91 in the main tank?
But I have fuel rail covers that keep the heat in, I never had a problem with them removed.
I have a 6' feed line from the rail to the fuel noid thought that would be enough extra volume?
How can I test if it is lack of pressure vs length of the lines?
I would love a stand alone but I dont want to cut the car up, and its $$$ for the C6.
If I ran a stand alone what octane would I need with 91 in the main tank?
#11
I have a 6' feed line from the rail to the fuel noid thought that would be enough extra volume?
How can I test if it is lack of pressure vs length of the lines?
I would love a stand alone but I dont want to cut the car up, and its $$$ for the C6.
If I ran a stand alone what octane would I need with 91 in the main tank?
How can I test if it is lack of pressure vs length of the lines?
I would love a stand alone but I dont want to cut the car up, and its $$$ for the C6.
If I ran a stand alone what octane would I need with 91 in the main tank?
Robert
#12
I have a dynotune LM1 the longer I spray the richer it gets I have loged it all the way to 180 06 C6 6l80
One quick (.3-.5sec) spike to 17-20 but no KR wideband is in the drivers side collector
Last edited by SY732; 04-28-2008 at 11:26 PM.
#13
Check out this thread, it worked great on a direct port, but I never tried it on a single fogger system, it might be over-kill for that.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...744&highlight=
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...744&highlight=
#16
Check out this thread, it worked great on a direct port, but I never tried it on a single fogger system, it might be over-kill for that.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...744&highlight=
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...744&highlight=
And I need to rewire it so the nitrous noids ground goes through it? then to my progressive controller?
#17
Oh, I just noticed you have a progressive controller. Unfortunetly, you can't do that with a progressive controller.
If you ditch the progressive, and wire it like this, I'm sure you lean spike will be eliminated though.
#18
Hmm I thought the extra volume would help should I move the noid back to the fuel rail?
I have a dynotune LM1 the longer I spray the richer it gets I have loged it all the way to 180 06 C6 6l80
One quick (.3-.5sec) spike to 17-20 but no KR wideband is in the drivers side collector
I have a dynotune LM1 the longer I spray the richer it gets I have loged it all the way to 180 06 C6 6l80
One quick (.3-.5sec) spike to 17-20 but no KR wideband is in the drivers side collector
Robert
#19
Yea, I would dump the 6' line and make the line after the noid as short as possible also. You can also get rid of the lean spike by overwhelming system with dual in tank pumps, it's enough that you won't fall off at activation. Getting richer is an indicate that your fuel system is catching up and fuel pump is currently adequate. generally, if the lean Spike is less than 1/2 second no worry, but getting rid of it would be better. Myself, I tuned mine like Vinnies, except a different route, to get rid of spike all together.
Robert
Robert
If the Fuel line 20" how long should the N20 line be 26-30"? so that the N and F get there at close to the same time?
#20
So you have 6' between the rail and the noid, and 3.5' after the noid? That's pretty ridiculous sounding. I can't see there being any reason at all for that.
Why not run normal length lines and not try to reinvent the wheel or whatever it is you're trying to do? And if need be, purge both the nitrous and the fuel before the run. I used to spray the kit for a few seconds rolling out of the burnout. That way the fuel and nitrous is at the solenoids and ready to go. No lean spike.
Why not run normal length lines and not try to reinvent the wheel or whatever it is you're trying to do? And if need be, purge both the nitrous and the fuel before the run. I used to spray the kit for a few seconds rolling out of the burnout. That way the fuel and nitrous is at the solenoids and ready to go. No lean spike.