P0300 on dry
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So, I finished my dry nitrous install...new TR6 plugs gapped at .35, new spark plug wires, new fuel filter.
After my car cools down, I'm gonna pull the plugs and see what they look like. But my car is obviously not running right on the juice. I had my Predator hooked up and monitoring knock retard...getting 0.00. (no, I did not use the Predator to tune it)
No air fuel ratio yet, I have a dyno appointment tomorrow.
But what would be causing the code P0300 Random multiple misfires? Going lean and detonating?
It only throws it on the nitrous..and there is an obvious misfire/power loss.
After my car cools down, I'm gonna pull the plugs and see what they look like. But my car is obviously not running right on the juice. I had my Predator hooked up and monitoring knock retard...getting 0.00. (no, I did not use the Predator to tune it)
No air fuel ratio yet, I have a dyno appointment tomorrow.
But what would be causing the code P0300 Random multiple misfires? Going lean and detonating?
It only throws it on the nitrous..and there is an obvious misfire/power loss.
Last edited by jetlag; Jun 18, 2008 at 11:02 PM.
it could also be your coils. I had that code last year and I swapped plugs first, wires second, and coils last which fixed my problem. Make sure you have no exhaust leaks ESPECIALLY at the plugs or in front of the o2 sensors.
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Well...I'm pretty sure my problem is caused by being lean cause my plugs were white.
Last edited by jetlag; Jun 19, 2008 at 04:15 PM.
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I changed my nozzle position..used a can of compressed air into the nozzle to feel if it was hitting the MAF wires, and it seems to be aimed right at it.
What is causing the lean condition and misfires???
What is causing the lean condition and misfires???
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jetlag since you cannot monitor your AFR you shouldn't have sprayed it to be quite honest. Let me see if I can get some pictures of my nozzle position for you as it is very similar.
Yes for ultimate safety we should always log the a/f, timing and KR and it really doesn't matter wether it's a wet or dry hit. This is a good example of what can happen. I agree on the above rec to run the interface, then your current nozzle location will be fine. That's what this device was engineered for, dialing in the a/f ratio in a easy to use/understand method that we can all afford. then controlling the timing is just icing on the cake. Get that bad boy tuned and you'll be good to go. If you have a pic of your nozzle post it up, maybe it's something simple like turning the nozzle a bit IE: nozzle tuning.
Robert
Robert
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Yes for ultimate safety we should always log the a/f, timing and KR and it really doesn't matter wether it's a wet or dry hit. This is a good example of what can happen. I agree on the above rec to run the interface, then your current nozzle location will be fine. That's what this device was engineered for, dialing in the a/f ratio in a easy to use/understand method that we can all afford. then controlling the timing is just icing on the cake. Get that bad boy tuned and you'll be good to go. If you have a pic of your nozzle post it up, maybe it's something simple like turning the nozzle a bit IE: nozzle tuning.
Robert
Robert
Robert, in my other post you said the position looked optimal.

Robert
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It's really hard to remember whom all I have spoken to, lol, sorry (105pms and 265 unanswered e-mails just from this site). I hope I also stated that air dynamics per car can vary any given location and thus the need for a/f ratio to be monitored; otherwise no tuning would be needed if there was an absolute guarantee on nozzle position, or for this matter jetting suggestions for wet hits. It's all starting ground and tuning still needs to be done. let me go further and state that nozzle tuning has really been put on the shelf with the advent of the HSW Interface and the NX Dry Kit, along with the dry plate kits and interface. Stick with it, I have faith that you'll get it ironed out and things will be fine. 
Robert

Robert
Well, it was going to go lean either way...so that's why I tested it on my own instead of wasting money on the dyno.. hah.
I'm just going to wait for that NX dry MAF kit thingy...if it ever comes out..
Robert
Last edited by Robert56; Jun 22, 2008 at 03:00 AM.
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Hmmm... Why not utilize the HSW Interface? It will work great with absolutely any nozzle postion, even if you mounted the nozzles after the MAF and got "0" reading it would work. You already have a dry kit installed, and the Interface is about 150 bucks where as the NX kit is set to go for about 780, so it just seems to be better to go with what will work right now (I don't know the exact price on either product). Do you have a link to the other thread where you showed location?
Robert
Robert
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....47&postcount=1
I was under the impression that the NX main unit was going to be sold seperately? And for the HSW interface, how do I actually set it? Would I need a program like EFILive or HPtuners? Then I'd have to buy one of those.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....47&postcount=1
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....47&postcount=1
Robert
Edit: The location you have is a known good spot that can produce a great a/f ratio. Likely what is happening, due to air dynamics or nozzle being out of needed alignment, is the spray is going up and over the wires and missing completely and thus a very poor reading. access to a wide band would be the ticket whether trying to rotate nozzle or just using the interface to compansate.
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No that's the beauty and simplicity of the Interface, no tuner program needed, period. Well, if you want to use the advanced timing pull above and beyond the standard timing pull it offers then having at least access to a tuner program would be needed. But for what your doing, all you need is the knowledge of being able to read the plugs, and/or access to reading the a/f ratio and that's it (you need to be able to do this for any style kit). You just set some dip switches and dial in the exact a/f which will not vary day to day like a wet hits a/f will. I can explain that if you like. Not sure if the NX kit will be broken up or not? I have an 85mm prototype coming for my car, so i will be running both the Interface (have one already) and the NX MAF kit on different stages. Look for the Interface intro thread it has mucho insight and info on the unit, if ya can't find it I can link it.
Robert
Robert
I was misinformed on the HSW interface..learn something new everyday. I'm going to definitely be investing in a wideband so I won't have to reply on a dyno all the time. 383 said in another thread that the maf unit would be available seperately, so that's what I was going on??
The HSW interface does seem like a perfect solution to my problem and seems simple enough like you say. But IMO, the NX maf kit seems even more simple...No wires to hook up, just install and go..twist a ****. So I'd definitely be willing to wait and pay extra for it.
I guess only time will tell.

