ibex37

iTrader: (6)

Here is a diagram i made for my simple dry shot im going to run. Can someone double check my work and make sure my wiring is right? i may change where the wot switch is and put it between the arm switch and the 86 pin on the relay. i dont think there is any difference but thats why im asking lol. anyone have a recommendation for the fuse? i was going to use a 10 amp, that should be enough.



im not going to purge the system. i have maybe $100 in the whole setup, most of the cost came from the new dynotune solenoid. i have two bottles for the neon so one got donated to the firebird.

TwistedSS

iTrader: (3)

Looks fine. I'd run the power to 30 on the relays instead of 87 though. Thats the way I have always done it.

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

30 is the common and if the relay has an 87a terminal could be an issue if he's not careful. I would strongly suggest getting a window switch for the nitrous control. Otherwise looks fine to me, except you forgot the heater pressure switch if there is one.

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

doesnt look bad...also i did away with my WOT switch and ram a wire from my arming switch to the push button and then back to the silenoid...also what i did was put a inline fuse to each button just to be safe.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

I have a seperate power wire for the relay on my heater.

ibex37

iTrader: (6)

my relays do not have 87a pins. but just out of curiousity why would i be in trouble? im still trying to learn.

nitrous direct has it the way i do with the power wire to pin 87 and pin 30 to the heater. http://nitrousdirect.com/relayswitchforheater.pdf

but dyno tune has power to 30 and 87 to the heater,
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...R%20WARMER.pdf

my relays are radio shack special, the wiring diagram on the back of the package has pin 87 as 12V in, and 30 to the accessory.

im a little confused as to why, different companies use different pins? maybe its just different relay companies designs?

im not going to use a bottle heater pressure switch. i have a bottle gauge and im just going to monitor the bottle pressure. im not running a big shot yet. i have plans for the car later with a two stage set up. but for now i just want a small shot to get me in the mid 12s.

Todd157k

iTrader: (5)

it really doesn't matter which wire (30 & 87) you run it to. The point was made that it's just.. physically, 87a (if you had one) is close and could touch a hot wire. Since you don't have it, don't worry about it.
Since it's obvious you're building this on a budget, spend $25 and get a FPSS. It may save your motor.

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

Exactly

TwistedSS

iTrader: (3)

Yep. Agreed.

ibex37

iTrader: (6)

OK guys need some more help!!! after starting the project im thinking of changing the wiring around some. the biggest thing would be moving the wot switch from the 85 pin on the relay to the ground side of the solenoid? i have the "zippy" brand wot switch from an old NX kit. on the side of the switch it says its rated to 10amps. is there any difference or reason i should not run the switch there? the reason for the move is because the relays are going to be inside the car and the wot is getting mounted to the throttle body. so if i run the switch to the relay i have to run another wire all through the engine bay.

heres the diagram.

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

IMO that is a half-*** way to do it. Also if the switch contact can survive the solenoid load. The WOT switch should be on the control side and not the load side. So it is only one wire, is it really that hard to do? Again IMO

Todd157k

iTrader: (5)

I agree.

The WOT switch won't hold that load. It may work once or twice but then the contacts will be burnt.

ibex37

iTrader: (6)

ok ok ill stop being lazy...