WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

So, knowing what I'm going to do (meaning strap on an 8lb Procharger with reworked 6L heads & a custom cam) which way would you go? (provided I can get lower cr pistons with the 1st choice) And it's my $ so don't worry about that part....

Iron 402 Super Sale!!

We have decided that the month of July is as good of time as any to offer an iron 402 at a special price! Here is what you get.

*New GM 6.0 iron block
*Eagle 4.000 (4340 steel) crank
*Callies 6.125 H beam comp star rods
*Diamond -14 cc dish pistons
*Diamond chrome moly file fit rings
*Clevite rod & main H bearings
*Durabond cam bearings
**Balanced & blueprinted**

(this short block will include all oil galley plugs, dowel pins, and freeze plugs)

**Also included is the custom shipping crate & stand**
$3,549.00


LS2 Low Compression Features -

Built entirely from brand-new parts.
Sold outright, no cores required!
402 CID displacement
GM LS2 aluminum 6.0-liter block (includes block plugs)
4.000" Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft, balanced to rotating assembly
4.000" Ross 2618 forged alloy pistons with -28.50cc dish (includes new rings and full-float pins)
9:1 compression ratio (nominal; ultimate compression ratio will depend upon heads and gaskets used)
6.125" Eagle H-beam rods
Includes new, factory-installed cam, rod and main bearings.
Comes with everything required to retrofit into an LS1-equipped car or truck
Designed for naturally aspirated use.
Assembled to OEM tolerances and specifications.
Capable of supporting over 700 hp.
Oil pump, camshaft, pans, and plates not included.
ZL402 badges (pair).

The regular price for each of the LS2 short block assemblies is $3949.99. We are able to offer each of them for only $3649.99 through July 31st!

Mark

Tranzor

That's actually similar to what I was looking at for a nitrous application... only I was looking at the iron 408 that Combination Motorsports offers. If you go that route, get yourself a nice blower cam and pump a metric buttload of boost at it, because an iron 402 will take it all day long.

If you got the money, do it... I would.

Tylerb59

Oh ... dang.

slowpokez28

Hmmm you plan on putting custom heads and cam/with your 8# of boost I would go with the ls2 Hmmm then sell me the heads off the ls2 block when it arrives Ya that's it i like that plan Providing they would bolt onto my ls1 i heard rumors they do.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Both of these are short blocks. And I'm not sure which is stronger, the alum LS2, or an iron LS1. Both are better than stroking my LS1. Kinda why I was asking.....

slowpokez28

The ls2 IMHO looks like its stronger as far as internal parts go I think you could play with higher boost pressure with it...Now iron blocks are stronger but your playing with alot of heat build up having it supercharged.I read a article awhile back that prochargers do not like the heat build up.My 2 cents anyways. The groo god will be on later to correctly answer this post LOL

slowpokez28

http://www.kec.com.au/articles.html

Hope this helps in your venture

Tom

Oops sorry the other 2 links were bad so i removed them

strobelite

You gotta cage yet? BTW I would ask Ryan K. He is a pretty smart dude and has made some pretty fast cars so yeah I would take his opinion first and for most

Todd2001SS

My god those are cheaper than a stock ls1. I tell you, getting everything put together and those parts for that price would be the way to go.

I am pretty sure that with the correct cam you should have 500 plus rwhp all day long and not even put stress on that motor. By the time you add labor to your current engine, by new internals you will prob be ahead of the game this way and have a 402. That would be sweet.

Does everything bolt up with the Procharger? New brackets etc can cost thousands...seriously.

sardog46

Mark, the iron block at least in the ls1 world is going to be stronger. In the small block world the block I have is the better than any iron block

For what you are going to do with it the ls2 will be plenty strong. Plus since you are still a full weight car it will save you some.

If you are going to stick with low boost I would say ls2.

If you are going to big or go home I would say iron

Racehead

Mark I'd go with the LS2, it should be good up to 700 rwhp or more and will save you 80 lbs. Like Sardog said, if you were planning on running 9's then the iron block would be the better choice, if not then the aluminum block IMO is the better choice. One more thing .... a 50 shot on top of 8 psi would be a kind of cool too

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys! If you're gonna dream.....

In reality, this turns out to be about the same price when you figure in machine work to my block. So really, if I'm going to do this, WHY NOT? Supercharged 402....kinda has a nice ring to it, dontcha think?

Ryan K

iTrader: (11)

Which Procharger head unit are you running? If its the P1-SC, then I'd stick with a stock displacement. If its the D1-SC then go with a 402ish.

If you are planning on keeping the Knock sensors, then the LS2 is out. There is also a wiring harness change needed to run the LS2, The Cam Position Sensor is in the front of the engine Vs. the rear.

IMO, if you are running the P1sc, I would have a shop build a forged stock displacement LS1 aluminum block. If you are running the D1, then "maybe" switch to the iron block, The block is much stronger.

For me, I have Futral Motorsports building a 370" Iron Block for the Camaro. Forged internals, stock crank, 9:1.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

That's something I didn't think about Ryan...would the P-1SC @ 8psi be a good combo / enough for a 402? THanks! I think I'll call ATI & ask them what they think.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

All thing being equal the Iron block will be a more stable foundation to run high HP.

I would step up to the iron block deal and a D1 or an "XX"

strobelite

what are you doing with the motor in your car ryan?

Ryan K

iTrader: (11)

Its going into a bag and sit under the shelf in my garage.

narcszm

tbyrne is selling LS2 402s for $3300

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

The 2 deals posted above are from sponsors here (the LS2 is from Tbyrne). The iron block has better internals, and as Ryan pointed out & Ellis & I discussed, doesn't have the sensor issues. The LS2 is lighter, and does have an improved oiling system over the LS1 block. So there are trade-offs.

Another point to consider, if I did buy a short block, I could then turn around & sell my current motor complete. I still have the stock cam, intake (W/Boyce at the moment) & valve covers. So there is $1500+ off the top. Which makes this option about the same $ as building my motor into a stroker....

I appreciate the inputs! I have my opinions, but I certainly can't think of everything so any ideas are welcome.

Rokko

iTrader: (2)

think about down the road too, you know the bug, it'll never be fast enough. Look at Chris, he's running upper mid 8's and he says it's slow now that he's used to it.

The iron block will take more abuse over time. Plus like Bill said, a 50 shot on top would be sweet! Peace of mind with the iron block is worth something.........