welding/ sheetmetal question
03-28-2010, 02:29 PM
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welding/ sheetmetal question I had to cut out some of my floorpan and replace it with 22 guage sheetmetal.
I spot welded it all around, there's maybe 3/4"-1" between each weld.
What do I use to fill in the gaps? No way I'm spot welding that thing till it's all sealed, I'm not the best welder to begin with.
Any help appreciated.
-Mark
I spot welded it all around, there's maybe 3/4"-1" between each weld.
What do I use to fill in the gaps? No way I'm spot welding that thing till it's all sealed, I'm not the best welder to begin with.
Any help appreciated.
-Mark
03-29-2010, 12:08 AM
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For you a brushable seamsealer would be best, just lay some tape around the seam on both sides and follow instructions. It's pretty easy to use, and can be painted when dry. Practice with some on some scrap until you get it to layout like you want it to, and after you spread it you can take some water on finger to smooth it out some if it's to rough
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03-30-2010, 09:36 AM
#9
Ive used weld through primer, but never seen weld through seam sealer.. have you used it before?
BTW you should try and add a few more welds if you have them .75-1" apart. Try and get them about half that and it will flex/fatigue much less.
For seam sealers, your auto body supply store will have at least 20 different kinds depending on what you want it to do. There's brush on kind (easiest and cheapest) kind that is applied with a caulking gun, 2 part kind that is applied with a dual-tube automix gun, thick, thin, self leveling, etc. The 2 part kind will actually harden (still flexible) and is the best kind for a permanent seam and is most like the factory. I like the 3M 8236 best.
If youre on a budget get the brush on kind. Just make sure you clean your welds good with a scotchbrite pad first, spray a little primer down, then put the seam sealer on top of the primer once its dry. Then you can paint over top of the seam sealer once it sets.
BTW you should try and add a few more welds if you have them .75-1" apart. Try and get them about half that and it will flex/fatigue much less.
For seam sealers, your auto body supply store will have at least 20 different kinds depending on what you want it to do. There's brush on kind (easiest and cheapest) kind that is applied with a caulking gun, 2 part kind that is applied with a dual-tube automix gun, thick, thin, self leveling, etc. The 2 part kind will actually harden (still flexible) and is the best kind for a permanent seam and is most like the factory. I like the 3M 8236 best.
If youre on a budget get the brush on kind. Just make sure you clean your welds good with a scotchbrite pad first, spray a little primer down, then put the seam sealer on top of the primer once its dry. Then you can paint over top of the seam sealer once it sets.
03-30-2010, 10:21 PM
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22 gauge is pretty thin, your floor pan is going to be around 18-16 gauge. There is no such thing as a weld through seam sealer, it makes no sense and would have no purpose as you would have to seam seal over anything welded anyhow.
Last edited by Marc3.4V6; 03-30-2010 at 10:27 PM.
04-04-2010, 10:53 AM
#12
Ive used weld through primer, but never seen weld through seam sealer.. have you used it before?
BTW you should try and add a few more welds if you have them .75-1" apart. Try and get them about half that and it will flex/fatigue much less.
For seam sealers, your auto body supply store will have at least 20 different kinds depending on what you want it to do. There's brush on kind (easiest and cheapest) kind that is applied with a caulking gun, 2 part kind that is applied with a dual-tube automix gun, thick, thin, self leveling, etc. The 2 part kind will actually harden (still flexible) and is the best kind for a permanent seam and is most like the factory. I like the 3M 8236 best.
If youre on a budget get the brush on kind. Just make sure you clean your welds good with a scotchbrite pad first, spray a little primer down, then put the seam sealer on top of the primer once its dry. Then you can paint over top of the seam sealer once it sets.
BTW you should try and add a few more welds if you have them .75-1" apart. Try and get them about half that and it will flex/fatigue much less.
For seam sealers, your auto body supply store will have at least 20 different kinds depending on what you want it to do. There's brush on kind (easiest and cheapest) kind that is applied with a caulking gun, 2 part kind that is applied with a dual-tube automix gun, thick, thin, self leveling, etc. The 2 part kind will actually harden (still flexible) and is the best kind for a permanent seam and is most like the factory. I like the 3M 8236 best.
If youre on a budget get the brush on kind. Just make sure you clean your welds good with a scotchbrite pad first, spray a little primer down, then put the seam sealer on top of the primer once its dry. Then you can paint over top of the seam sealer once it sets.
3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive .
Can be spot welded when wet.
I have heard of others that can be squeeze welded while drying,I think Lord makes it. They have little glass BBs that will fracture when compressed.
04-04-2010, 11:28 AM
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Seam sealer is good ****. That being said if there are adequate welds for strength, and you are just trying to make the repair air tight. Get some Ultra Black Rtv in a tube from the auto parts store. And smear it on. It will dry firm but not hard. I recently used this on a section of floor plan and it has done fine.
