First, a little background info. I've done a fair amount of automotive paint work in the past few years. I'm not an encyclopedia on the subject, but I can prep and tape damn near anything and ain't too shabby behind the trigger. Am I gonna put out a Chip Foose approved hotrod any time soon? Probably not, but I can get the job done and looking as good as factory, provided I have the materials and resources.

However, I don't have a paint gun, nor do I plan on getting one any time soon. So the rattle can method comes to mind.

I want to paint my truck flat black in the near future. I'm not about to spend a butt-load of money to have a 20 year old vehicle painted though, so I figured I'll do it myself. Krylon has an ultra-flat black that I've used for gun parts before, but what about applying it to a vehicle? This is the stuff I'm talking about...

http://www.krylon.com/products/camou...on_technology/

I figure for around $50 +/- I could have enough to get the job done (its not a very big truck lol). This same paint on gun stuff holds up to regular handling as well as chemicals like CLP. My biggest worry is whether or not it will fade in direct sunlight. Chipping isn't an issue, as long as I properly prep and clean the surface. The final cured product is pretty tough.

So is this a viable option? Perhaps a matte clear coat option?

http://www.krylon.com/products/matte_finish/

Also, no comments regarding how you may not approve of my choice of a matte black finish please. Not trying to sound like an ***, but it is my vehicle and my money, so I have the right to do with it as I please

 

Almost 100 views and zero input? Someone has to have something for me!

 

No way I'd use Krylon to paint the exterior of a car. If you've been around painting that long you should be looking into SEM Hot Rod black. Thats what I'm using on my T/A very soon.

 

Its a 20 year old truck and I'm really not wanting to spend a crapload on a painjob. If I could find a cheap spraygun (that doesn't ultimately suck) and some good/cheap flat black paint, I'll go that route. I don't want to go over $200 or so for a paint job though. Just doesn't seem reasonable for a vehicle that really isn't worth much and will get used daily.

 

i'd probably go the roll-on paint route before i'd rattle can it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...oll-paint.html

links from that thread that explain the process:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...ght=buff+paint

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...job/index.html

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f8/...rustolium.html

http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...e/detail/61860

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

this will probably be cheaper than rattle cans and probably yield better results. a can of the kyrlon is around $4, and you would need several cans per panel. i'd assume at least around:

-3-4 cans for front bumper
-2-3 cans for each front fender (4-6 total)
-4-6 cans per door (8-12 total)
-4-6 cans per side of truck bed (8-12 total)
-4-6 cans for tail gate
-5-7 cans for top of truck

each can of paint may not cost too much, but when you're doing such a large project, it adds up quick

 

IF you want to be cheap and you want it to look good then do this:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376442


I think he spent $120 wrapping his BMW and it looks pretty good.

 

^thats the winner right there. and its 100% reversible whenever you choose. and it actually came out really good.

 

The SEM paint is only $78 for the kit & it comes with everything you need. Pick up a cheapo spray gun for another $100 or so & get a good paint job.

 

+1 to the roll on method.. read up on the moparts.org link.. sick job..

 

Agreed

 

i did the same thing with my truck. bought a $40 paint gun that worked great. just bought black primer and turned out pretty good. i had full intentions of painting it, but i was happy with how it turned out and everyone that saw it said they'd leave it flat black. had like 200 bucks in materials and primer

 

Hmm, I'm really digging that wrap job.

I appreciate all the feedback guys. And I'm sorry if I may have come off as coarse- I'm not trying to be

EDIT: One thing about the vinyl wrap- I'm not sure, but from what I'm reading, you have to have a nice shiny paint job to start with? Can anyone confirm this?

 

78$ for a quart maybe, not even close to being enough to paint a truck, you will need about four or five.

 

Its for a gallon kit & its just a single stage kit. Comes with all the reducer/hardener needed as well. If your only doin a basic single stage system you dont need as much paint as a more expensive glossy paint job.

 

Post the link to that deal, ill buy some right now. The last time i bought it it was close to 90$ for the quart kit. Close to six months ago when i did my intake. With that price ill respray my car.

 

My bad, it is a quart size. But this place has the kit even cheaper, LOL. Only $56, LOL

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd-sem-...-paint-kit.cfm

 

After reading that BMW vinyl wrap thread further, I've come to the conclusion that it may not be the best option. Alot of vinyl pros are commenting on how it will crack, peel, and ultimately fail after only a short while, as the type of vinyl used isn't automotive quality (which is around $500-$800 per roll). So that may not be an option.

I'm thinking about ordering a paint gun from harbor freight, but I'm not sure yet. I've only used good quality guns before (SATA 2000 and 3000 w/ 1.3 tips), so I don't know if they "spoiled" me or not.

EDIT: This looks like a pretty good deal, but I don't know what size tip it has...

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...gun-66222.html

Then there's this kit and it has 2 tips for the full size and one tip for the touch up, but doesn't come with regulators...

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...kit-94572.html

 

people over here do the vinyl wrap thingy and honestly if its done right no1 would notice it and it wont leave any mark when removed...

 

the first one is what i bought. works great. not the best, but definately gets the job done

 

That SEM stuff apparently sprays best through 1.3 or 1.4mm heads. Is that what yours has?

Also- the SEM: is it a satin black or a matte/flat black? I'm not a fan of satin- the "kinda" shiny "kinda" flat appearance. Just looks like a half-assed Makko job IMHO. I like either completely flat or very glossy. No in between