l 95 Trans Am l

iTrader: (5)

My paints in need of some attention, the usual scuffs and hair scratches all over it. I have a good black and decker 10" buffer. My question is what wax and pads should i use? I heard clay bar works wonders. I know its going to take alot of work, so if you guys might have a process or list that you follow, please post, thanks

Black94Z28

iTrader: (12)

wash the car and leave it all soapy. Then take the clay bar and rub it all over the car until there is no friction between the clay and paint. Then dry the car 100% (dont want water getting on the buffing pads) 1st. use a whool pad with low rpms and cutting compound. Pay special attention to deep scratches as these can be worked out in this step. Some may need wetsanding with 2000 grit. Then take a yellow pad with some swirl remover compound to remove the swirls from the cutting compound. Next take a blue pad and some polishing compound to bring back the deep shine then follow with some carnuba wax and enjoy! Any other questions PM me. Kinda kept it short and sweet.

AuggieStyle

if you use a clay bar dont use Cutting compound go straight to polish compound, most clay bars(clay magic blue- mothers) are 2200 grit, so if you use a Cutting compound depending on the brand start at 1200 and go to about 2000 grit, therfore if you used a clay bar before Cutting Compound you would be going backwards and may burn thru the clear easier.
clay bar polish and hand glaze or machine glaze will do wonders

the whole buffing process is a lot more detailed than some people think but basic paint restoration can be done easily.

detailed; i mean do you know clear melts at 110degrees and do you know if your compound selection is made for buffing to shine or buffing to get scratches out

Joshu

iTrader: (1)

What? That makes no sense (the order)
You clay to remove impurities, the compound levels out the marks in the clear.

This is what I do and the results were INCREDIBLE!
- Wash with very light amount of dish soap
- Clay bar the bitch
- Wash with normal water
- Polish with Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (SIP)
* First pass with the orange cutting pad
* Second pass with a white finishing pad
- Wash
- Finish with Zaino-CS (Z-CS)
* I do not use a wax since my car only sees 2K a year in fantastic weather. That's an argument for another thread.

2000ssowner

I Agree with the post above^^

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

Dude, if that was correct the "clear would melt off our cars" on a hot summer day damn near anywhere in the country...

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

+1 And he is from Texas

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

Yeah lol my car wouldn't have clear left and I'm in northern ohio lol,what about the m105,m205 combo,most detailing guys I talk to on here say that's the biggest bang for the buck?

808z28camaro

NEGATIVE to all of the above. Not saying its bad stuff. I have a suggestion to an easier/ fool proof method/ product. I use this for my detailing business. Nothing but VERY satisfied customers. OUTSTANDING RESULTS!! I have never burned paint!! It removes, swirls, water spots, minor key marks, minor scratches (on clear coat). Also restores "yellowed" headlight lenses.

ADAMS POLISHES

http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-14-po...polishing.aspx

bowtiebuilder

iTrader: (18)

Clay bar is not sand paper... It is clay. If you don't clay bar it, 1) You will never get a great buff on it. Just a good one. 2) Your going to work 10x harder to get the new scratches out that you just put in it by swirling dirt at 3000 rpm's. The only thing I will input is be very careful with wool pads on factory paint. With no experience, it is pretty damn easy to burn through with wool. There is foam cutting pads, use those. I am a 3m guy. 3m is fool proof and will not steer you wrong. It's not the cheapest, but you get what you pay for. And lastly, I use filtered water to wash after the clay bar. Just way easier to dry up, and no water spots. Hope I helped... PM me if you need specifics.

Blackhawk777

This guy has it on the money. I use a combo of 3m and meguiars when I buff out a car, but I ALWAYS use foam, I'm not a big fan of wool.

CL2000

iTrader: (1)

I have worked at a body shop for 14 years.If you are going to buff there is no need to clay. First off is your buffer a dual action? I would use a wool pad and 3m Perfect-It Rubbing Compound, 06085. I really like to buff with low speed like 1000rpm-1200rpm. I would next use a black foam pad 3M Perfect-It Machine Polish, 06064.You shouldnt need to go anything more if it was black I would do one more step. Work small areas and then from one end of the panel to the other it will help with swirls. The best wax I have ever used on red is Klasse all in one. I would do one panel at a time when waxing it with klasse.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

what exactly do you do in preparation for buffing then CL2000? I'm asking that sincerely because if you come look at the amount of dirt and crap stuck in the paint on the top of my rear bumper after washing but before claying, and tell me it's safe to go ahead and put a buffer to it as-is, I'd have to say you're out of your mind

CL2000

iTrader: (1)

I have had the clay cause more damage with dirt .I would take a buffer to it. How long have you been dealing with detailing and refinishing paint if I could ask?

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

I am a complete novice with refinishing which is why I asked

it's just that in my head I'd think even if you cause minor marring by claying it, it would be removed along with the swirls and scratches when buffing afterward, rather than skipping the clay and having the dirt dislodge itself and rub around on the paint at 1200rpm, but I suppose in your experience this is not the case

bowtiebuilder

iTrader: (18)

I would never in my life buff without claying. If you see a BIG chunk of dirt, press the clay on it rather than swiping over it. The clay bar is designed to get the smaller particles of dirt and such. Not no.2 gravel pieces. As I stated before, a novice should steer clear from a wool pad, and stay at low RPM's. Porter cable has an incredible dual action buffer. It helps the novice to keep away swirl marks, and also makes it nearly impossible to burn through. Just my.2!

SinisterZ28

iTrader: (4)

Wet sand any deeper scratches n dirt w 2000 since your a beginner get some 3000 trizack da pads n u use those wet,over the whole thing,then buff with yellow foam pad w yellow 3M compound,then a blue polishing pad with 3M ultrafina blue polish,then wax this is how we do it at the body shop I work at