I just started painting my car ...PROBLEM SOLVED!!
#41
But he agreed to replace the wasted materials so that's somewhat of a relief. When I get home tonight I'm going to check how much more material I'll need and give it to him. The only thing left to take care of is sanding the damaged paint off. The hardest part is going to be the engine bay BUT the guy @ Sherwin Williams said to use paint striper and that'll be a lot easier. So maybe I'll go that route instead. Because sanding the damaged paint off the spoiler took me hrs and hrs using 220 wet sand paper.
I'll keep you guys updated on the final results.
#45
Yesterday I went ahead and sprayed some paint remover that I got from Sherwin Williams. It works pretty good. The clear came right off. I think it needs another coat and it'll be set. I hope I can shoot some paint this wknd.
#47
Ya I know what you mean. I'm pretty much done stripping all the paint off the engine bay and the driver side door jam. As soon as I'm done with the psgr side I'm going to wash everything down with a 3M scuffing pad and some Dawn detergant soap. Then I'll sand it all down smooth with 320 and wash it once more with soap and let it dry for a few days before I apply the adhesive promotor and primer. I'm not going to use paint stipper on the 1/4 panels since it has a tendency of getting into the filler and lifting it. So I'm just going to take a DA sander to it and then reblock it.
Here's a updated pic of the stripped engine bay and LH door jam.
As for the paint supplies...
The good news is the paint store replaced all the wasted supplies free of charge.
The bad news is that they're now telling me that the paint was made with the "correct" binder this time and I can go ahead and reduce it 1:1 and do not add hardener, just like they originally told me the first time. I asked if they can just mix it like the way they did the first batch since I already know how to work with it, but they said no. They said they had already sent back the old binder to the manufacture. So now I'm worried about this happening all over again if I use the mixing ratio they're giving me.
Questions....
1. What would happen if I reduce it 2:1 and add hardener instead of 1:1 and no hardener???
Here's a updated pic of the stripped engine bay and LH door jam.
As for the paint supplies...
The good news is the paint store replaced all the wasted supplies free of charge.
The bad news is that they're now telling me that the paint was made with the "correct" binder this time and I can go ahead and reduce it 1:1 and do not add hardener, just like they originally told me the first time. I asked if they can just mix it like the way they did the first batch since I already know how to work with it, but they said no. They said they had already sent back the old binder to the manufacture. So now I'm worried about this happening all over again if I use the mixing ratio they're giving me.
Questions....
1. What would happen if I reduce it 2:1 and add hardener instead of 1:1 and no hardener???
#48
Dan, this really pisses me off when I hear of so-called "paint stores" selling people auto paint and have no clue what they are doing...I've sold DuPont paint for a living at a local parts store for 17 years and have been spraying for 20...If I ever have a question of any kind, I don't hesitate to call the tech line or my rep...These asshat pukes behind the counter of your local store obviously don't know how to hold a spray gun or they would understand how big of a ****-off it is when you have a huuuuge issue like you did...I think you are being VERY kind in just asking for a reimbursement and not taking their dumb asses to small claims...Give me a call in NW Ohio on the next one...I'll fix you up...I think your car will look great!!...Best of luck!!!
#49
Dan, this really pisses me off when I hear of so-called "paint stores" selling people auto paint and have no clue what they are doing...I've sold DuPont paint for a living at a local parts store for 17 years and have been spraying for 20...If I ever have a question of any kind, I don't hesitate to call the tech line or my rep...These asshat pukes behind the counter of your local store obviously don't know how to hold a spray gun or they would understand how big of a ****-off it is when you have a huuuuge issue like you did...I think you are being VERY kind in just asking for a reimbursement and not taking their dumb asses to small claims...Give me a call in NW Ohio on the next one...I'll fix you up...I think your car will look great!!...Best of luck!!!
Small claims court sounds like a good idea but I just don't have time right now, especially with my new born son. Plus I would've had to wait for that whole process to go through before I could finish my car. If it wasn't for that, I would've been take them to court and filed a complaint with the BBB.
Any idea on what would happen if I reduced the paint 2:1 instead of 1:1 and add the 3% hardener???
#50
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After going through all of this I'd spray a test piece to make sure it all works like it should. It'll hold you back from doing the car for another day or two, but it could save you the time stripping it down again if it goes wrong.
I'd also check with the manufacturer again and see what they say in relation to what you were told. Hell, even if they tell you the same thing I'd spray a test panel.
I'd also check with the manufacturer again and see what they say in relation to what you were told. Hell, even if they tell you the same thing I'd spray a test panel.
#51
After going through all of this I'd spray a test piece to make sure it all works like it should. It'll hold you back from doing the car for another day or two, but it could save you the time stripping it down again if it goes wrong.
I'd also check with the manufacturer again and see what they say in relation to what you were told. Hell, even if they tell you the same thing I'd spray a test panel.
I'd also check with the manufacturer again and see what they say in relation to what you were told. Hell, even if they tell you the same thing I'd spray a test panel.
I guess I'll sand down the spoiler for the 3rd time and test the new paint. It's better than having to strip the entire car again if it goes wrong.
Thanks to all the guys here who helped out. I'll be sure and post pics of the car once it's all done. I'm thinking I'll spray the engine bay, all the jambs and rocker panels one wknd and spray the rest of the car the next wknd.
#54
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ok found couple of things.first i looked at the Dimension Basecoat Product Data Sheets.and it says mixing ratio is 2:1.not 1:1..and this is the reducers for it:
Reducer Selection Chart
DR631 50°-60°F
DR632 60°-70°F
DR633 70°-80°F
DR634 80°-100°F
DR635 100°F and above
which reducer are you using?
doesn't say anything abt adding hardener to it.i don't understand why they want u to add hardener.like mentioned above do a test panel first.
Reducer Selection Chart
DR631 50°-60°F
DR632 60°-70°F
DR633 70°-80°F
DR634 80°-100°F
DR635 100°F and above
which reducer are you using?
doesn't say anything abt adding hardener to it.i don't understand why they want u to add hardener.like mentioned above do a test panel first.
#55
ok found couple of things.first i looked at the Dimension Basecoat Product Data Sheets.and it says mixing ratio is 2:1.not 1:1..and this is the reducers for it:
Reducer Selection Chart
DR631 50°-60°F
DR632 60°-70°F
DR633 70°-80°F
DR634 80°-100°F
DR635 100°F and above
which reducer are you using?
doesn't say anything abt adding hardener to it.i don't understand why they want u to add hardener.like mentioned above do a test panel first.
Reducer Selection Chart
DR631 50°-60°F
DR632 60°-70°F
DR633 70°-80°F
DR634 80°-100°F
DR635 100°F and above
which reducer are you using?
doesn't say anything abt adding hardener to it.i don't understand why they want u to add hardener.like mentioned above do a test panel first.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/me...ish/W10454.pdf
Also, this data sheet applies to the basecoat the way that Sherwin Williams mixes it. Since the paint shop uses a different "binder" which have different requirements this data sheet no longer applies. According to the guy at Sherwin Williams the way the paint is mixed at the paint shop it may already have the hardener in it and when you add the reducer it activates the hardener. Of course, this is just an assumption.
Last edited by Danny; 09-26-2012 at 10:25 AM.
#56
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Are you sure you're looking at the correct data sheet. This one says it requires 3% hardener...
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/me...ish/W10454.pdf
Also, this data sheet applies to the basecoat the way that Sherwin Williams mixes it. Since the paint shop uses a different "binder" which have different requirements this data sheet no longer applies. According to the guy at Sherwin Williams the way the paint is mixed at the paint shop it may already have the hardener in it and when you add the reducer it activates the hardener. Of course, this is just an assumption.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/me...ish/W10454.pdf
Also, this data sheet applies to the basecoat the way that Sherwin Williams mixes it. Since the paint shop uses a different "binder" which have different requirements this data sheet no longer applies. According to the guy at Sherwin Williams the way the paint is mixed at the paint shop it may already have the hardener in it and when you add the reducer it activates the hardener. Of course, this is just an assumption.
3.5 VOC BASECOAT
3B INTERMIX PREFIX.
is tht wht u using?.becuse i saw 5B - 4th Dimension B/C gallon in your previous pictures.so i though u were using tht.but if your using the 3.5 voc basecoat then tht is the right mixing ratio.
#57
The picture is kinda hazy but it says 3B 3.5 VOC.
What would happen if instead of reducing the paint 1:1 like the paint shop said, I reduce it 2:1 and add the hardener? I would imagine the paint will just be heavier? Or does the reducer help dry the paint?
What would happen if instead of reducing the paint 1:1 like the paint shop said, I reduce it 2:1 and add the hardener? I would imagine the paint will just be heavier? Or does the reducer help dry the paint?
#59
That's what I want to do but what worries me is that the guy at the paint shop said that they used the correct "binder" this time and this one does require the paint to be mixed 1:1 and no hardener. If this is true and I go ahead and reduce the paint 2:1 and add the hardener, will something happen to the basecoat? If nothing will happen then I rather go with the Sherwin Williams directions.
Now remember, the data sheet that Sherwin Williams posted is based on the basecoat the way that Sherwin Williams mixes it, with their binders and all. Since my basecoat is made with different binders then this data sheet no longer applies...at least that's what the Sherwin Williams rep told me...which makes sense.
Body work sucks. Now I remember why I prefer mechanic work or body work anyday.
Now remember, the data sheet that Sherwin Williams posted is based on the basecoat the way that Sherwin Williams mixes it, with their binders and all. Since my basecoat is made with different binders then this data sheet no longer applies...at least that's what the Sherwin Williams rep told me...which makes sense.
Body work sucks. Now I remember why I prefer mechanic work or body work anyday.