Paint Removal
12-25-2014, 02:10 PM
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Paint Removal Okay so I finally have time to start body work since im on xmas vacation. I got to sanding on my car, I know the car had a cheap paint job. But I'm starting to think now maybe it was rattlecanned. Let me know what you guys think.
I know the car had to be white before, even kinda looks to me like it was just painted over.
I know the car had to be white before, even kinda looks to me like it was just painted over.
12-25-2014, 06:58 PM
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looks like a wammer of a job been done. I worked at a body shop. we would strip the car just because it may react to what you spray on it. alot of work for you to get it nice but take your time with good prep. without good prep you"ll see everything you dont want. take car to somebody to see in person for advice.
12-25-2014, 07:30 PM
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The body work I can do, I've just never run into this. That was my worry is laying primer or paint then it not sticking due to this. What should I do? Completey strip and primer and paint? It's only a drag car but I also want it to look half decent.
12-27-2014, 03:49 AM
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I would strip it to bare metal, epoxy prime, then use your 2k primer over that. I did that with my 1990 Ranger, it had that wonderful paint on it from the late 80's-to early 90's where it started peeling. It's simple, to get a good paint job, the base must be good to accept the new paint. Strip it.
I prefer to strip mechanically, sanding. I don't like chemical strippers, if there is any residue, you are screwed.
I prefer to strip mechanically, sanding. I don't like chemical strippers, if there is any residue, you are screwed.
12-28-2014, 03:31 AM
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I like to get my metel to 80 grit for the epoxy. Most epoxy manufacturers recommend 80. With 80 grit on a DA, the paint will come off fairly quickly. The tight corners are a pain in the ***.
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12-30-2014, 08:50 AM
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Yeah its very tedious but call me crazy I like doing this work a lot. Just something about seeing a car in these stages is like a work of art to me.
12-30-2014, 04:31 PM
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This is where I'm at now. As you can tell the car is not an arrow but it's not bad for 30 years old. So what should I do filler to take care of the small low spots or just go to primer and hope blocking will take care of it?
12-30-2014, 06:58 PM
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lookin like your getting there. now if you want inspiration you put the tv in the garage ha ha. figured out the color going yet? not orange, don't look good on that style Camaro. I had a orange red 77 nova, neighbors 5 year old kept asking if it was general lee. that was funny.
12-30-2014, 10:49 PM
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that's cool, get a thicker primer to spray on it. it will help sand some of waviness out when block sanding it. use some guide coat as well to help even it out.
12-31-2014, 03:40 AM
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I use SPI products. The regular build primer they sell is as heavy as most others heavy build. If you really want to do some heavy filling, i have used Featherfill G2. It really fills. Normally i would use some filler on the obvious low spots, sand those, then follow up with 4 coats of primer. Block that down, repeat if needed.
I like to seal the entire body first with 2 coats of epoxy primer, before anything else.
I like to seal the entire body first with 2 coats of epoxy primer, before anything else.
01-01-2015, 05:45 PM
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Well New Years Eve I got no work done, spent all day putting batteries in my truck so I had to be driven all across town to get that accomplished. Today I started work on the doors. Didn't like what I seen, wavy like an ocean. Lucky I have a set of doors off another 3rd gen that I already started to lighten for racing. Started to sand on those and liked what I seen way better. So I gutted the driver door and got it to where I had only one bolt holding the door on. And off course its stuck. So tomorrow I'll fight with that. Also decided I'm going to get rid of the ground effects.
