new paint not smooth?
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If they did everything right, then it should be smooth. I got mine back about three weeks ago and it is absolute GLASS. Also, I dont know what clear they used but I was told by my guys to NOT wax the car for at least a month. He said the Dupont clear that they use takes 1 month to get as hard as it is going to get.
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Sounds like a crappy paint job, the only time we wet sand a new finish is to remove minor imperfections. The only time you should collor sand a panel slick is if your a crappy painter and cant lay it down right or if that is the finish you preffer. I allways do my best to match the factory texture of the rest of the car where you cant tell anything has been done to it.
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Originally Posted by Jeremiah
Sounds like a crappy paint job, the only time we wet sand a new finish is to remove minor imperfections. The only time you should collor sand a panel slick is if your a crappy painter and cant lay it down right or if that is the finish you preffer. I allways do my best to match the factory texture of the rest of the car where you cant tell anything has been done to it.
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Originally Posted by SpdFrk1990
Crappy painter wth are you talking about? Im sry but you cannot lay down a glass like paint job with out wet sanding. I agree that if its bad enough for him to notice it is prob a shitty *** paint job. If you are not painting the whole car and just trying to match factory paint then you will not need to wet sand unless there is imperfections like said.
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Sounds like you have a "dry finish" which can result from the clearcoat being sprayed on with too much air pressure so the clearcoat was atomized too much before hitting the surface of the car.
I disagree that a glass surface can't be achieved without wetsanding. IF the painter knows what he is doing and adjusts his gun and technique for the environment and conditions, ie. temp, humidity, etc. and technique being gun speed, air adjustment, overlap and reducer in the clear, then YES a great surface can be achieved.
It sounds as though we have a lot of folks in this forum giving advice who have never even lifted a paint gun
OH yea, by the way, if you put wax on that new paint job already then you messed up and better get if off right away. Your painter should have told you yet. Even though the paint may be dry and hard it takes a minimum of 30-60 days for the paint to fully cure and all the solvents to be released. Otherwise the wax will hold in the solvents and prevent the proper venting. This will lead to problems down the road such as delamination, lifting, etc.
Bryan
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I disagree that a glass surface can't be achieved without wetsanding. IF the painter knows what he is doing and adjusts his gun and technique for the environment and conditions, ie. temp, humidity, etc. and technique being gun speed, air adjustment, overlap and reducer in the clear, then YES a great surface can be achieved.
It sounds as though we have a lot of folks in this forum giving advice who have never even lifted a paint gun
OH yea, by the way, if you put wax on that new paint job already then you messed up and better get if off right away. Your painter should have told you yet. Even though the paint may be dry and hard it takes a minimum of 30-60 days for the paint to fully cure and all the solvents to be released. Otherwise the wax will hold in the solvents and prevent the proper venting. This will lead to problems down the road such as delamination, lifting, etc.
Bryan
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Originally Posted by parbreak
Sounds like you have a "dry finish" which can result from the clearcoat being sprayed on with too much air pressure so the clearcoat was atomized too much before hitting the surface of the car.
I disagree that a glass surface can't be achieved without wetsanding. IF the painter knows what he is doing and adjusts his gun and technique for the environment and conditions, ie. temp, humidity, etc. and technique being gun speed, air adjustment, overlap and reducer in the clear, then YES a great surface can be achieved.
It sounds as though we have a lot of folks in this forum giving advice who have never even lifted a paint gun
I disagree that a glass surface can't be achieved without wetsanding. IF the painter knows what he is doing and adjusts his gun and technique for the environment and conditions, ie. temp, humidity, etc. and technique being gun speed, air adjustment, overlap and reducer in the clear, then YES a great surface can be achieved.
It sounds as though we have a lot of folks in this forum giving advice who have never even lifted a paint gun
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Originally Posted by SpdFrk1990
I do restoration and have painted many cars sooo not sure what folk you are talking about. You always get some orange peel just some inexperienced people dont notice it as much. A smooth paint job to me is when you paint black and it just looks like you are looking into a mirror if you dont wet sand you always see some orange peel to it altho sometimes barely any at all.
I don't think I was addressing you specifically so don't be parenoid. I was addressing the fact that I've already seen a lot of bad advice given by people who have obviously not painted anything before. Your definition of a smooth paint job is one that costs $15000-$20000 vs. one that cost $5000-$8000 and most people won't know the difference.
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Its cool just checkin lol like you said what is really smooth 2 someone might not be as smooth to someone else. I knew someone that bought a new ford truck and the hood looked like total **** strait from the factory as bad as the actually skin of an orange. My friend said he pointed it out to him and he never even noticed it.
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Originally Posted by parbreak
OH yea, by the way, if you put wax on that new paint job already then you messed up and better get if off right away. Your painter should have told you yet. Even though the paint may be dry and hard it takes a minimum of 30-60 days for the paint to fully cure and all the solvents to be released. Otherwise the wax will hold in the solvents and prevent the proper venting. This will lead to problems down the road such as delamination, lifting, etc.
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I have seen this a few times. I would ask them to go over the car with a rotary, and use an moderately aggressive polish, like from one of Menzerna's line or 3M or Megs #80. Follow the polish with a finishing polish either by rotary or pc. The finish should be as smooth as glass.
Waxes or lsps (Last Step Products) will never remove particles in your paint. What you could also do if you feel like taking a risk, is to try using a claybar with a solution of car wash and water, spray a small area of your surface, and go over it with the clay to see whether it will lift the particles off of the surface. Many times just claying (with the lube solution) will work wonders in getting the paint smooth as opposed to cutting layers off of the surface.
Good luck in any event.
Waxes or lsps (Last Step Products) will never remove particles in your paint. What you could also do if you feel like taking a risk, is to try using a claybar with a solution of car wash and water, spray a small area of your surface, and go over it with the clay to see whether it will lift the particles off of the surface. Many times just claying (with the lube solution) will work wonders in getting the paint smooth as opposed to cutting layers off of the surface.
Good luck in any event.
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I do both paint and body and have worked on or restored some very high profile cars in my past, two of the most memorable being Carrol Shelbys personal GT500 KR Conv. and Boyd Coddingtons Chezoom. My company driver "on nice days" was the 68 GT500 that Madonna gave shawn peen as a wedding gift. There are several things that could lead to a dry finish and any knoledgable seasoned painter knows all of them and knows how avoid them. I personally dont care for the slick sanded polished finish that everyone things is so great. Anyone with little experience can lay down a crappy finish and sand/polish it smooth.