Converted Stealth Ram and Monoblade
#1
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Category: Engine - Intake/Fuel
Price: $700
Location (State): AR
Item Condition: Used
Engine: LT1/LT4
Thanks,
Paul
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#2
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Im in love, bump for a killer price and if I didnt jump ship to go carb I would be all over this. Once again this is a great price you guys, dont be afraid of a little cutting of your cowl as this fix's 90% of the LT1 intake problems. Gives you the much needed plenum volume and a nasty broad power curve for sure. Its not going to make your engine want to peak out at some over the top rev limit so please dont be afraid of tunnel ram style intake's and the old tales of needing to be revved to take advantage of it. If you take a look at what edelbrock did to try and improve the LT1 intake design they screwed up by making the plenum to small but in turn gave you some longer runners to work with. This stealth ram has the runner length and the increased plenum volume and Im sure the OP picked up power every where in the curve. I have a edelbrock on the porting bench as of yesterday and I can assure you guys its a disaster out of the box compared to a well ported stocker or this bad ****, the edelbrock is going to need some much needed love to make it perform against even touched up stock casting. Im finishing this book off with "This thing will stomp a mud hole in any of my custom ported LT1 castings and will look great doing it"
Josh
Josh
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Thanks. I hate to see it go but its time for bigger and better. I figuring on a tough sale, most people are scrared of it lol. I need to reach out to the impala crowd as well. Everywhere I went people loved this intake when I opened the hood.
#4
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Guys this is pretty much what that GPCC or whatever that company came in here trying to sell these cut down to clear the stock hoods and bailed on us. This is a great chance to pickup a proven intake, just lookup some of the 3rd gen site's and look at the results they are getting as its really a popular intake with that crowd. Good luck on it though!
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How much of the cowl needs to be cut to make this work? Just wondering because while it's mainly a track car, I do drive my car on the road as well, and live in the rainy northwest, so I can't delete my wipers.
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I cut to much when I did it. I really think you could cut just enough and retain the wipers. The biggest problem is having to cut enough to be able to get to the 2 bolts for the back that mate the top and bottom together. I had thought about welding the upper and lower together as gpcc did on thier shorten versions.
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Can you email me a few pics of where you had to cut? I'll print them out and compare them to my car to see if it'll be work-able with the wipers.
How long did you run this setup on your car? Were you running it when you got the times in your sig? Mind if I ask why you decided to get rid of it?
Thanks,
Amanda
How long did you run this setup on your car? Were you running it when you got the times in your sig? Mind if I ask why you decided to get rid of it?
Thanks,
Amanda
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I built one of these a few years ago. my car picked up serious bottom end and midrange power with it. I did all the converting myself and the parts still cost me almost 500 this is a great deal for someone. good luck with the sale.
Kory
Kory
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Talked with my builder tonight. He thinks the intake would work well for our 383 build. Unfortunately the cam won't work
he's built a lot so far around the hydrolic cam I have
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Last edited by LadyDriven; 04-21-2010 at 10:21 PM.
#19
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I dont know why this wouldnt work great with a hydraulic roller??? This is just a refined version of a LT1 intake but with much better port angles and bigger plenum. Pretty much everything aspect of design I put into my ported LT1 intakes this thing is better at. I could see if your going to a single plane or a sheet metal intake but this would be perfect on a hot 383 build. It will only extend your power curve from off idle because of the large amount of available air that the engine can take as it needs it. And also the extremly efficient throat of the plenum where it mates to the runners. These runners are almost exact in length and design so you are gaining horspower in those jugs that the ported LT1 intake lacks suffecient air flow and proper distribution. Im sure you read or experienced a couple of cylinders that will always run lean or rich, that alone has hurt many pistons running extreme NA builds but mainly nozzle style nitrous kits where distribution sucks.Also it should only pickup your head intake ports cfm at the valve with this intake on since its an extension of the head port along with the highly efficient runner shape. I would look into it more before some one snags this up.
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The INTAKE will work fine. The CAM the original poster has listed in another thread, that he offered me as well, is what wont work
The intake is just pure sex. Even my builder, who regularly builds 800hp + stock cars, was impressed with it. Im scrambling to come up with the money to buy it! It'd be perfect for my build (minus the fact that I'm going to have to butcher my hood, and have it sticking through my hood, and have the cops pull me over for it every second night..)
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The intake is just pure sex. Even my builder, who regularly builds 800hp + stock cars, was impressed with it. Im scrambling to come up with the money to buy it! It'd be perfect for my build (minus the fact that I'm going to have to butcher my hood, and have it sticking through my hood, and have the cops pull me over for it every second night..)