AFR at 14.1. Need suggestion before a tune.
#1
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Well, right around last month, I did a dyno and my car pulled 306rwhp but the AFR ratio was at 14.1 from 3500 to 5000rpm. Now after the dyno, i changed the plugs and wires, and it turns out my plugs were shot to hell, some of them have a gap at .070 or higher. After the plug were changed, the car runs a lot smoother and idle better. So, right now, I really need to make sure that my afr is good, therefore I think a tune is necessary. Current mods: SLP lid and SLP dual/dual.
I am worried driving the car at 14.1 afr, so i am gonna bite the bullet and get a tune to make sure my engine is healthy. I am not planning to add anymore power mods, just suspension mods in the foreseeable future.
Another question: If i get a tune now, and I add more mods in the future and I go back to my original tuner, do I still have to pay full price, assuming I do not do any internal mods? Generally speaking of course.
What do you guys think?
I am worried driving the car at 14.1 afr, so i am gonna bite the bullet and get a tune to make sure my engine is healthy. I am not planning to add anymore power mods, just suspension mods in the foreseeable future.
Another question: If i get a tune now, and I add more mods in the future and I go back to my original tuner, do I still have to pay full price, assuming I do not do any internal mods? Generally speaking of course.
What do you guys think?
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If you're still running the stock tune, then I venture to say that the lean condition was caused by the misfiring spark plugs. Chances are you've already remedied the situation with the new plugs / wires, but another quick dyno run would verify that for you. The stock tunes from the factory have a tendency to tun 'over-rich' for safety purposes and even adding the lid / exhaust, you should still be very safe.
A tune right now would add some power, but to maximize your savings, just wait until you get more mods before you worry about getting a tune.
Bird
A tune right now would add some power, but to maximize your savings, just wait until you get more mods before you worry about getting a tune.
Bird
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Misfires will fake the wideband lean. Overgapping (or
erosion) is one way to get spark blow-out. You would
also like to know that you don't have any kind of fuel
fade or injector imbalance problems, which are also age /
maintenance issues. You should have a clean fuel filter,
air filter, MAF, and maybe even injector service before
you go in for a tune on an older vehicle.
erosion) is one way to get spark blow-out. You would
also like to know that you don't have any kind of fuel
fade or injector imbalance problems, which are also age /
maintenance issues. You should have a clean fuel filter,
air filter, MAF, and maybe even injector service before
you go in for a tune on an older vehicle.
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Couple of things. IF it was really reading a solid 14.1 from 3500 to 5000, then my guess is that there is something wrong with the wideband. I've never seen a wideband not fluctuate at least a couple of tenths in that large of a spread.
14.1 cruising around part throttle is fine.
14.1 cruising around part throttle is fine.
#5
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Couple of things. IF it was really reading a solid 14.1 from 3500 to 5000, then my guess is that there is something wrong with the wideband. I've never seen a wideband not fluctuate at least a couple of tenths in that large of a spread.
14.1 cruising around part throttle is fine.
14.1 cruising around part throttle is fine.
I already replaced the fuel filter and check my fuel pressure and it shows 60psi throughout all rpm.
The only thing I haven't check, which I will this friday, are the injectors. If that checks out, I will wait for the tune on the 30th and hopefully through it, it can be confirmed that my car is healthy while gaining some power in the process.
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Plus, my tuner said that if I do add bolt ons in the future, he will re-tune it for free.
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#6
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That's what I was thinking, the reading looks very odd to me during the dyno.
I already replaced the fuel filter and check my fuel pressure and it shows 60psi throughout all rpm.
The only thing I haven't check, which I will this friday, are the injectors. If that checks out, I will wait for the tune on the 30th and hopefully through it, it can be confirmed that my car is healthy while gaining some power in the process.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Plus, my tuner said that if I do add bolt ons in the future, he will re-tune it for free.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
I already replaced the fuel filter and check my fuel pressure and it shows 60psi throughout all rpm.
The only thing I haven't check, which I will this friday, are the injectors. If that checks out, I will wait for the tune on the 30th and hopefully through it, it can be confirmed that my car is healthy while gaining some power in the process.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Plus, my tuner said that if I do add bolt ons in the future, he will re-tune it for free.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
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If the wideband being used is a sniffer up the tail pipe type, you could have an exhaust leak. In a free flowing exhaust system, a leak can actually draw fresh air in depending on the location.
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It is actually a sniffer in the exhaust pipe, and I will post my dyno graph later on today to show that AFR was at 14.1 and does not change at all throughout 3500rpm to about 5200rpm or so.
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Ok, I checked my injectors and at warm (not hot) the ohm was between 14.5-14.7 for all injectors, I checked a few when cold and it pegged between 12.4 - 12.6 for all injectors. I guess I'll wait until the tune to see if my car still runs lean. I hope not.
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