93octane

I am throwing a p0327 code.

What all do I need to replace the knock sensor? Do I need the wires as well?

From research, I need these part numbers:

10456603 - knock sensor

12575869 - wires to knock sensor

Thanks!

horist

I had this same code ...

Realistically you probably only need the knock sensor ... (there are 2 knock sensors, you're only setting a code for 1 of them... bank1 is the one closest to the cylinders 1/2 i believe)

However, new wires wouldn't hurt ... if you do a search in this section you'll find some talk about a TSB about water gettig in under the intake manifold and killing the sensor... they basically suggest a bunch of RTV around the sensor

as far as changing the sensor... it's pretty easy... just pop the intake manifold off (be careful that you don't break your oil sensor... there's a big vacuum line in back for hte brake booster, it wraps behind the tall oil pressure sensor, make sure it clears and don't pull hard on hte intake) and you'll see the sensors right there in the lifter valley cover.

I'm pretty sure bank 1 is the front sensor but could be mistaken... if you can swing it then replace the wires at the same time but you probably will not have to (I replaced my wires and both knock sensors because I got tired of popping my intake changing 1 part and still having problems)

93octane

Thanks for the reply. From the research I have done, this is bank one, the front knock sensor, closest to the front of the car.

I went ahead and ordered 2 sensors and 2 wires. It was $100 bucks through a GM discount. Do I really need the wires?

Also, I was reading the write-up for a valley cover swap and it said that I need to remove a fuel line. Will I need to remove a fuel line to get to both knock sensors? I says I need a 3/8" fuel line tool to remove it, and I want to make sure I have all the tools before I start.

Thanks again.

horist

yes you will need the fuel line tool... they're like 5 bux ... cheap plastic tools... I dont think you need any other special tools...

You really probably don't need the wires... especially not 2 sets (i made the same mistake, I ordered 2 sets thinking it was 1 wire per sensor... but instead both sensors use the same harness that then connects in back of the intake manifold... so w/2 sets you'll have an extra set of wire ...)

93octane

Okay, well thanks for the info again. I know the guy getting me the parts, so I'll just have him take one set of wires off my invoice. I'll try to "knock" this out tomorrow night.

93octane

I'm reading the write-up and it doesn't mention a fuel line disconnect tool. Do I really need it or not?

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...e6afefdf97ce9a

Team ZR-1

You do not need to remove fuel lines, you can move the fuel rail with the line still connected out of the way to pop manifold off.
I would replace the wires since it only takes a minute for the old ones could have been pinched or dryed out.
Do not over torque them when installing, I would build the silicon dam around the knock openings to reduce water getting down there.

Make sure the vaccum hoses get properly installed at the back of intake by the MAP sensor before bolting intake in.

93octane

I got a new wire, and I already have some RTV. I read that the manifold bolts need 7 ft./lbs. to seal the manifold. I have a tq. wrench as well.

Thanks again.

Team ZR-1

After about 1 day I would go back and recheck torque after engine/intake has gone through a few heat cycles.