LS2 Engine won't rev up
When we took the car to the track it ran well for 3 laps and then lost power. We let the engine cool, checked fuel pressure was ok. and a local tuner checked for codes, etc. We took the car out again same thing. Lost power when warm.
Took the car to a local tuner who put the car on a Dyno, troubleshoot wiring, coils, etc. Replace fuel injectors with larger ones, etc.
Took the car to the track. Same thing. Soon as engine warms up it wont rev over 3000 RPM.
Back to the shop. Took the car to a different tuner. He checked & reprogramed ECU. We re-routed the fuel lines to keep cool, replaced the MAF, TPS, Crank, Coolant , O2 sensors, wrapped the headers, replaced coils, changed spark plugs, etc. We again checked fuel pressure, checked & replaced fuel pumps in fuel cell, replaced fuel pressure regulator. Checked fuel cell vent. Changed ignition wires. Still the same thing. The engine starts right up, idles normally, and seems ok when cold.
I guess next to to send the ECU out to be checked or swap one?
Obviously it is not quite as simple as you make it sound, because we have all those elements.
It appears the cars ECU which is in a tube frame race car with fuel cell, 4 speed Tex racing trans, etc, is pulling back the timing as it thinks the engine is in trouble. What we can't figure out is why. I have replaced & added grounds, triple checked all the connections, charged & replaced the battery. So I guess the ECU swap is next?
You should datalog the engine as this happens. May be the engine is picking up a false knock and timing is dropping. Just a guess. I remember at one time solid rollers would do this time to time.
Just my opinion, i wouldnt throw and ecm at it yet. You need to datalog whats going on when the engine gets warmed up. Probably not the answer you want, but, its where you should look first.
The engine is pulling timing for a reason, for all you know there could be a parameter that is set wrong. Or, hopefully not, there may be a knock when the engine is warm and thats why its pulling timing. Is the knock sensor code shut off? What program is being used for tuning?
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Sounds like this is either a off road car, or a modified stock racer. Beating and banging can/will set off the knok sensors.
[Won't help w/ the life span on a MAF, either.]
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I have seen track cars go into limp mode for multiple reasons. If they replaced all of those sensors is it possible that the 5V reference is corrupted either by a short to ground or short to power?
I had to track one of those down - not fun - but an easy way to do it is to disconnect all of the individual sensors one by one, then back probe the individual wires at the ECM one by one. I checked for continuity between the wiring and the ground first and got lucky. We had a wire that was shorting to ground and corrupting the 5V reference. May be possible there is something funky going on in the wiring harness.
The second thing I've seen are issues with the car going into limp mode due to the throttle by wire - they needed to tune in a larger variance between the two throttle position sensor values.
Just some things I've seen in the past with track cars.
Thanks, Dell





