Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

Still troubleshooting my issue, but I've got HPT now. Tried some wot pulls but my trans wouldn't shift from 2nd-3rd causing me to let off. I've also had the trans act up under normal driving, as if it intends to down shift when there isn't a need to, then goes back into gear. Here's my chart.


This is at idle, the b1s1 seems very unstable. That O2 was replaced since this issue started however so what else could it be?

Firecat700RR

iTrader: (1)

What's motor setup? Seems like alotta peak timing to me.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

02 LS1. Stock internally, lid and 3in cut out. The timing at wot was bumped 3* when I tuned out the rear O2's. It was 24* at wot at around the same RPM before the added 3* iirc. That was around 10k miles ago though with no issues at all until now.

The primary issue that started all of this is that the idle will drop when coming to a stop and sometimes die if I don't give it throttle. Sitting at idle after driving I'm hearing what seems to be a misfire. I've replaced all plugs/wires and MAF with no change. The plugs I took out didn't seem unusual. None were wet or oily.

Firecat700RR

iTrader: (1)

Try taking a couple degrees off try a run again. Could be false knock if you can't hear any pinging but I'd take a few off run again.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

That B1S1 O2 look odd too you? It's new so I'm wondering if I have a clogged injector possibly. Would a faulty reading cause all of this?

Firecat700RR

iTrader: (1)

Could but voltage is reading ok at wot it looks. Is it not switching at idle? Should switch for sure not be stuck at that voltage when in close loop.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

That second pic is at idle. that sensor stays rich while the other sensor switches 3 times before it drops, and it's unstable as if it's not getting steady fuel.

Firecat700RR

iTrader: (1)

I'd check harnesses for o2's. Something could be shorted maybe.

joecar

Regarding trans:

make sure the WOT MPH upshift/downshift points are not upside down;

make sure the WOT MPH upshift points are achievable (i.e. rpm is not redlined);

set WOT RPM upshift points lower;

make sure the PT upshift/downshift curves do not cross each other;

set throttle kickdown tables to100% all across.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

Since the car is still basically stock I re flashed the stock tune. Just deleted the rear O2's and changed gear ratio.

No KR now, but bank one is still too rich but in only in one cylinder. I'll upload pics shortly. I'm pretty sure it's the injector not working properly.


This is cruising on the highway. Bank 1 is staying rich.

Cylinder 5 plug, all others were clean. This is after only about 200 miles.

joecar

Also, oil getting sucked into engine via PCV plumbing can cause knock/KR.