Boosted 5.3 Tuner? Which and why?
Now The motor is all stock basically but I just received my torqstorm centrifical supercharger the other day and man is that thing purdy! I should be at about 10-11psi boost max. I have the OEM ECM and harness that I have gone through and slimmed down and added an IAT sensor in the intake. I have the parts to convert to Standalone for the battery and switched 12v hookups.
So before I continue to dump my very limited time into the harness Im considering all options for tuning. I have limited knowledge of tuning with a 383 HSR I did 5 years ago on the stock ECM with moates stuff. So consider myself a newb again lol. I don't mind going with a new setup but budget is tight!
I was planning to go with HPT tuners pro and reuse the OEM ECM since Im all stock minus the boost. Holley systems are just too DAMN expensive. Terminator looked good at $1500 but as soon as I called holley they said boost and Meth requires dominator ECM and then all said and done prob like $3500 so… no thanks.
Guess My options are:
HPT
EFI live
Microsquirt
I think I'm leaning towards HPT pro since i can data log. But for around that price you could go microsquirt but id have to start from scratch.
On the 5.3 I didn't run it in SD 2bar. Basically I changed injector size, bumped the idle, richened WOT A/F, some transient fuel & spark tables, did some MAF/VE tuning & drove it for 6yrs. Never did anything beyond that but change the oil. Using the stock cam really makes it easy. It will obviously limit your power capability but if you want the best plug & play start/run drivability, it is a very viable option.
On the 5.3 I didn't run it in SD 2bar. Basically I changed injector size, bumped the idle, richened WOT A/F, some transient fuel & spark tables, did some MAF/VE tuning & drove it for 6yrs. Never did anything beyond that but change the oil. Using the stock cam really makes it easy. It will obviously limit your power capability but if you want the best plug & play start/run drivability, it is a very viable option.
But I think Im going to go with the 2bar setup. I dont want more than 10-11psi and even then I think its too much and would rather want 8psi but I dont want to pay to ship the unit back to the manufacture to swap a pulley/pay for a new one. Replacing it myself will void the warranty and they use a heated/press fit style pulley with retaining bolt.
I plan to convert to 2bar SD, transfer all the date and have to figure out the MAP/VE tables from the MAF setup, change injector sizing etc and limit timing with boost. Then I have to factor in the METH injection which will run off a boost/vacuum hobb switch which I'll prob inject after 3psi or something.
My reading on the net suggests HPT being a better system so I'm leaning towards it. My issue will be that I never leave anything alone so down the line will prob be a custom boost cam and some head work with a complete refresh with some upgrades like forged pistons etc. I literally didnt do anything so this one is all stock from the bearings to the rings.
Hmm thats interesting. From what Ive read they max out around 10psi. Since I figured I was at the brink it would be easier to delete it and relocate the IAT into the intake and start with the SD 2 bar base OP system. I would hate to waste 2 credits on the MAF operating system just to switch to SD.
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If the compressor side is set up right you will jump into a good efficiency range quickly. Then you can tune to that part of the island & work down. But the range for when you aren't under (add:heavy) load, at various RPM's, aren't impacted the same way. That makes it easy to tune off (add:WOT) throttle because the fueling & ignition tables are closer to an NA motor.
I believe the guy has the log with the 62lb/min reading, I would have to ask him to make sure, if you want to see it. He was running E85. It was spitting out what %/Lambda was supposed to be, pretty close anyway.
Last edited by gtfoxy; Dec 2, 2015 at 03:23 PM. Reason: For clarity
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