Surging when Coasting
I've added a ton of airflow in the follower/cracker, which helped some. But I'm not even sure how to log it. It's a feeling... and it's noticeable when I'm at say 50-55mph in traffic and I left off the gas to speed match the car in front of me so I don't ride the brakes. It's about the only thing left that's not great with the tune. Any pointers on what to look for or even log?
4.8/4l60e/0411/efilive/cos5/olsd
If you can't get it better with that, then log the usual things you'd log but be sure to include IAC counts, MAP, spark and wideband.
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We need to figure out what's causing you to need so much airflow. Your VE table doesn't look quite right to me... maybe a symptom of bad injector data, but I don't know if that's enough to cause this.
See if you can get a log for me.
I added airflow there to take away the bucking. As I said - it used to buck pretty bad (16 degrees of overlap) when locked up. I found that adding airflow took it away and made decel better too. Then adding timing made it even better... but it's not quite right.
I swapped the injectors this year for GM L9H Flex Fuel injectors. Data is from GM. VE table has always been incredibly lean down low. Even when I had Ford 47lbs injectors in to start with. Looked pretty similar.
I haven't had a chance to try this yet since the car is away for the winter. But come springtime I'm gonna do some testing.
Tried to drive normal with a lot of coasting. The bucking is more pronounced and coast-down. But I also have a return to idle bounce around with the SD tune I don't have when I enable the MAF. So I'd like to get that corrected too. Any ideas? Temps were in the 50s... last time I tuned in October for the VE table it was in the 80s. So everything looks off a little.
Drive shows temp at 160 with me driving around. Ok shows as I let it warm up to temp in my neighborhood as I drove slow. Tune attached as well.
Another thing would be in your derivative RPM low table, put a small (0.10000-ish) value in for 0.03 and 0.04 columns. This should anticipate the rpms dropping too far and add a smudge of air preemptively
If this is true, your idle adaptive spark won't work quite right. If you advance spark to gain RPM, you'll actually LOSE torque, resulting in either a drop in RPM or more air needed.
If you're game, try setting your idle spark to 28 degrees instead. Then, in your idle underspeed spark table, go like this:
everything else....-100...-75...-50...-25...0
4.........................4.......3......2.......1 .....0
In your overspeed table, go like this:
0....25...50...75...100...125...150...175...200... everything else
0.....1.....2....3.....4.......5......6.......7... ...8..........8
Darth V8r is right, you need less spark at idle. I'd be inclined to set idle even lower than he recommends... maybe to about 26. Then you'll need more airflow to idle properly, which is a good thing as I think you don't have enough base airflow now which is why you have to throw so much air at it with your cracker table.









