kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone used one of these,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Air-Inta...dYUP90&vxp=mtr

I suspect the setting is similar to a camaro unit. I really don't know how I am going to get exactly 130*F air to blow on it though to test it. Any ideas or known settings is please?

First idea that came to me: hair drier + laser themometer = rough ideas? I suppose it only needs to be kind of close. And ambient temp would be a solid point in the middle. I am starting to think it wont be so bad after all.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

How about connecting it to the car, scanning, and compare at ambient.
Then dunk It in ice water and see what it reads.
Then dunk it in boiling water and check again.
Modify the tune accordingly.
I doubt water would hurt it.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

They are cheap enough to sacrifice I suppose, just in case. Thanks for the suggestion

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

I've tried 3 times to buy aftermarket electronic parts from China off of ebay. Three times I tossed them in the garbage and bought real parts, Good Luck.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Under normal circumstances, it is wise to avoid cheaply made parts from anywhere. Especially important parts. This is good general advice.

An IAT sensor is not necessary in my application. I run and drive the vehicle fine without one currently because I have enough experience and extra careful doing so. To that effect, I am not worried about an IAT failure, because it will not be used to make much if any changes to the fuel or timing (I will not allow it to do much) in my application (it does not get very cold here, and a wideband will alert me if it did. Any high temp changes are negligible as they tend to reduce fueling which is undesirable in the case of IAT failure). It is mainly going to be used for data-logging, and common sense can be used with this type of sensor to ensure accuracy, plus or minus a fair degree.

$0.02

Compsystems

isnt the IAT used by the pcm to calculate air density? (ideal gas law)

without the iat the fueling will never be right.


The GM Cyclone uses a IAT sensor just like that one. you can get it from any auto parts store and it used common GM settings.

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

I bought a eBay idle air control valve and it was the shittiest thing I'd ever seen. It went straight to the garbage. Ended up buying an new oem sensor.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

When the air gets colder, more fuel is required. Modern engines have long intake tracts, and special passages for hot coolant, for example, that help maintain a stable (warm) air temp. On my particular setup, the air entering my air filter is warmed by the compressor, and levels out as it nears the engine, warming by the same traditions as a factory engine would (minus the coolant passage). It would take an incredibly low temperature air to actually reach my intake manifold as anything lower than typical ambient here (Florida: 85 to 100*F). Since air never gets that cold here, the cold aspect of fueling is not going to matter, as the IAT will never see "cold" temperatures where I live and operate my vehicle. And even if it did, lets say I drove to alaska for a day, at sea level, and the air temp entering the engine dropped 40*F or so, it would still be rich enough because I have enough headroom my street tune (it is very conservative, perhaps an 11.2:1 becomes 11.9:1 in alaska at sea level).

So that covers the cold IAT readings. Lets take a brief look at warmer temps:
When the air temp warms, the IAT is traditionally programmed to remove fuel. In a performance application, this is not going to happen (My IAT will never be pulling any fuel, ever. Nor will it be pulling timing or adding timing under any circumstances). Therefore, there will be no warm consderations for hot IAT.

This covers both hot and cold situations, as we see the IAT is useless for my fueling/timing considerations. However, it does help with keeping track (logging) of boost related temperature, which can be dangerous with pump fuel at high temperatures regardless of a/f or timing.

Last, consider that,
If you have a wideband, you can always make sure fueling is correct, and if it isn't, you grab the laptop and make it correct. Some people don't watch all the time, don't have the obsessive desire to constantly adjust their tune, but I do.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

HI ALL, name one thing that is NOT Made In China ?

MOST ALL the MAT, CLT sensors are Made In China.

The buyers, one such is Delphi Purchasing, do "pick" their factories.
There IS a great difference in a quality China factory vs the low cost/low quality China factory.

The China EGO/UEGO Sensors DO NOT WORK.

The TPS sensors (CTS Knight) are Made In China.

The BEST way to check sensor calibration IS to immerse in boiling water.

Lance