HP Tuners - Video Guides
#81
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New video - Base knowledge for advanced tuning. Don't touch that boost controller... Covers pretty much every consideration for tuning boost and high compression.
#82
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i'm starting to close the throttle blade and it is helping my iac counts when hot will go as low as12. I believe I have to continue to close the throttle blade. I have the idle rpm speed set to 950. I did notice it doesn't cold start as easy as before but still doesn't need any throttle input to start. my timming is set at 18 mite try lowering that also
#83
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Follow ALL the tuning guides first, then get back to us. I have been doing this for a long time now, but not professionally, so I still sometimes fall into the trap of skipping steps. If you tune every day, you know what needs to be done, but if you are a sometimes tuner, it pays to follow ALL procedures. As an example, I once spent most of a winter chasing an IAC problem that I thought was an issue with my tune. Turns out you just can't tune out mechanical failure.
sucks u had mechanical issues,but I don't believe its my issue. if anything maybe my Chinese throttle body is the issue.i have not tried to tune the iac yet, I had moved the values way too much over to the right it would not read the full table. I have since moved the table back over to almost stock,i wish I could tune on vechiles all day every day but just not going to happen. I honestly believe that a aftermarket ecm like holley is the best bet for ls swap cars
#84
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Nice to see another YouTuber doing good informative videos!. Goat Rope Garage is another fantastic channel I found.
i been using efi live for ten years. They efilive community and user base is much smaller and getting support or answers to questions is pretty difficult. Everything I have “learned” was learned by trial and error.
Anyways. Good work man 👌 The community appreciates your effort and willingness to share your knowledge. This world needs more people like you!
i been using efi live for ten years. They efilive community and user base is much smaller and getting support or answers to questions is pretty difficult. Everything I have “learned” was learned by trial and error.
Anyways. Good work man 👌 The community appreciates your effort and willingness to share your knowledge. This world needs more people like you!
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kpeters59 (10-15-2019)
#87
Just finished view #9 from start to finish. Just wanted to give feedback - it's a wonderful video that everyone should watch.Most of it I knew, but the formulae I did not. So it helps.
I think IAT's is probably one of the most important factors, it basically governs everything else. I'm excited to bolt on the F1x soon..
Given:
SCR: 9.9:1
91 OCT (stupid Utahrd gas...then again, 4800ft altitude)
I will be driving it to a dyno, but what's the general rule of thumb here in terms of cutting down spark? I'm taking a rough guess here and saying that I'll probably build about 9psi of boost based upon what I have. Are we talking about a percentage cut across the board? maybe cutting about 20%? 30%? 50%?
Lean Cruise Target AFR for a Centri Blower - Are we still okay to target stoich *everywhere* (14.6ish) except WoT? (11.2ish) ?
Thanks,
Andy
I think IAT's is probably one of the most important factors, it basically governs everything else. I'm excited to bolt on the F1x soon..
Given:
SCR: 9.9:1
91 OCT (stupid Utahrd gas...then again, 4800ft altitude)
I will be driving it to a dyno, but what's the general rule of thumb here in terms of cutting down spark? I'm taking a rough guess here and saying that I'll probably build about 9psi of boost based upon what I have. Are we talking about a percentage cut across the board? maybe cutting about 20%? 30%? 50%?
Lean Cruise Target AFR for a Centri Blower - Are we still okay to target stoich *everywhere* (14.6ish) except WoT? (11.2ish) ?
Thanks,
Andy
#88
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Just finished view #9 from start to finish. Just wanted to give feedback - it's a wonderful video that everyone should watch.Most of it I knew, but the formulae I did not. So it helps.
I think IAT's is probably one of the most important factors, it basically governs everything else. I'm excited to bolt on the F1x soon..
Given:
SCR: 9.9:1
91 OCT (stupid Utahrd gas...then again, 4800ft altitude)
I will be driving it to a dyno, but what's the general rule of thumb here in terms of cutting down spark? I'm taking a rough guess here and saying that I'll probably build about 9psi of boost based upon what I have. Are we talking about a percentage cut across the board? maybe cutting about 20%? 30%? 50%?
Lean Cruise Target AFR for a Centri Blower - Are we still okay to target stoich *everywhere* (14.6ish) except WoT? (11.2ish) ?
Thanks,
Andy
I think IAT's is probably one of the most important factors, it basically governs everything else. I'm excited to bolt on the F1x soon..
Given:
SCR: 9.9:1
91 OCT (stupid Utahrd gas...then again, 4800ft altitude)
I will be driving it to a dyno, but what's the general rule of thumb here in terms of cutting down spark? I'm taking a rough guess here and saying that I'll probably build about 9psi of boost based upon what I have. Are we talking about a percentage cut across the board? maybe cutting about 20%? 30%? 50%?
Lean Cruise Target AFR for a Centri Blower - Are we still okay to target stoich *everywhere* (14.6ish) except WoT? (11.2ish) ?
Thanks,
Andy
For spark, start conservative on the WOT areas. I know some guys start around 12 ish and work up from there, depending on boost level that is. Keep in mind its a centri blower, so you do not have to do this everywhere on the table. You can follow the boost curve essentially, which will allow for more spark through the midrange, but reducing as boost increases and all the way up to max boost, where the number should be the lowest. That is something I would go to a dyno for too, to make sure I'm getting the most out of it. Since you are going straight to the dyno, I guess just make sure it has a decent AFR in the cruise areas and show restraint lol.
At low RPM and low boost though you can leave spark pretty high, except through cylinder fill. Look at your completed VE to determine this area. Max fill is the peak on the VE table under N/A.
To give you an idea, I'm running right around 18* WOT on my N/A Camaro, and it shows slight knock at anything above 20. It's 11.81:1 SCR with an ECR of 8.5:1. This is also probably partly caused by high IAT's too though, because of the stock location. Will be fixed at some point later, with true ram air from behind the grill. Yours would be higher, but at your altitude, it may actually be less. I still wouldn't push it past 15 to get it down to the dyno. And if you keep your foot out of it, then you shouldn't even have to worry about the WOT area lol.
#89
Yes for fuel target, simply set PE mode to around 70 kpa or so, below that shouldn't be an issue. Everywhere else should be good. 11.2 is a bit on the richer side, you can target 11.5 using either PE or the BE table. Some guys use the PE table because of the delay in activation of the BE. This seems to be intermittent from car to car, so some use both tables. That I simply know from HPT forums.
For spark, start conservative on the WOT areas. I know some guys start around 12 ish and work up from there, depending on boost level that is. Keep in mind its a centri blower, so you do not have to do this everywhere on the table. You can follow the boost curve essentially, which will allow for more spark through the midrange, but reducing as boost increases and all the way up to max boost, where the number should be the lowest. That is something I would go to a dyno for too, to make sure I'm getting the most out of it. Since you are going straight to the dyno, I guess just make sure it has a decent AFR in the cruise areas and show restraint lol.
At low RPM and low boost though you can leave spark pretty high, except through cylinder fill. Look at your completed VE to determine this area. Max fill is the peak on the VE table under N/A.
To give you an idea, I'm running right around 18* WOT on my N/A Camaro, and it shows slight knock at anything above 20. It's 11.81:1 SCR with an ECR of 8.5:1. This is also probably partly caused by high IAT's too though, because of the stock location. Will be fixed at some point later, with true ram air from behind the grill. Yours would be higher, but at your altitude, it may actually be less. I still wouldn't push it past 15 to get it down to the dyno. And if you keep your foot out of it, then you shouldn't even have to worry about the WOT area lol.
For spark, start conservative on the WOT areas. I know some guys start around 12 ish and work up from there, depending on boost level that is. Keep in mind its a centri blower, so you do not have to do this everywhere on the table. You can follow the boost curve essentially, which will allow for more spark through the midrange, but reducing as boost increases and all the way up to max boost, where the number should be the lowest. That is something I would go to a dyno for too, to make sure I'm getting the most out of it. Since you are going straight to the dyno, I guess just make sure it has a decent AFR in the cruise areas and show restraint lol.
At low RPM and low boost though you can leave spark pretty high, except through cylinder fill. Look at your completed VE to determine this area. Max fill is the peak on the VE table under N/A.
To give you an idea, I'm running right around 18* WOT on my N/A Camaro, and it shows slight knock at anything above 20. It's 11.81:1 SCR with an ECR of 8.5:1. This is also probably partly caused by high IAT's too though, because of the stock location. Will be fixed at some point later, with true ram air from behind the grill. Yours would be higher, but at your altitude, it may actually be less. I still wouldn't push it past 15 to get it down to the dyno. And if you keep your foot out of it, then you shouldn't even have to worry about the WOT area lol.
I'm seriously considering investing in the Plex Knock system and tuning it on a dead road in the middle of no where myself.
But sometimes, the $500 towards a good dyno tune vs $500 towards a Plex monitor system and *still* have to tune it myself... Meh. Might just be easier to pay the dyno-man his/her dues :-)
Thanks again Doc,
Andy
#92
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Spider has you covered, for now... I am assuming you have read his sticky already? https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...er-setups.html This is the best I can do for you at the moment. I have played around with scaled tunes many times with success, but every PCM is a little different, so I'm slightly hesitant to make a full guide on it. I guess I could just make that clear if I did lol. Essentially, you have to scale everything by the same % you scale the injectors. The only place that you can't do this is the spark tables, where it makes it tricky. 50% scaled is much easier than other scale values, however, may be too much as well, as then you lose like half the spark table damn near. Then again, if you have that much fuel going in there, it may actually have to be that much. This all just depends on the size of the injectors. I have a 427 running 80# and I too am on the bottom row very quickly without scaling. I feel your pain here.
Here's what I would do. Take a look at your cylinder airmass max values under WOT on any log. Get an average at that number. In our case it will be much higher than the bottom of the spark table. Let's say it's 1.4 g/cyl or something, and the max is 1.2... In that case then it would be 15% over your table... 1.2/1.4 = 0.85. So scaling by that plus a little more would be what I would do, to keep the spark table resolution (full use). In that case I'd use 20%, or so. Any number can work so long as you are prepared to do the work on the spark tables. The rows have to be shifted by the %. So the 1.2 row now becomes 0.96 on a 20% scale, and so on. (1.2 * 0.8 = 0.96). Copy the 1.2 row directly to the .96. For this, you can use excel or another open tune with the same values and copy everything top to bottom or bottom to top, whichever is easier for you.
Just make sure you retune everything with caution getting the AFR's and verifying everything is good before flooring it lol. I've heard the idle tables don't seem to be affected by scaling all that much, as in they don't respond well to the % change. So the BRAF table you can leave alone, as well as the other idle air tables. All other air tables, anywhere you see something with g/s or the like, select all and multiply it by the scale you want.
Here's what I would do. Take a look at your cylinder airmass max values under WOT on any log. Get an average at that number. In our case it will be much higher than the bottom of the spark table. Let's say it's 1.4 g/cyl or something, and the max is 1.2... In that case then it would be 15% over your table... 1.2/1.4 = 0.85. So scaling by that plus a little more would be what I would do, to keep the spark table resolution (full use). In that case I'd use 20%, or so. Any number can work so long as you are prepared to do the work on the spark tables. The rows have to be shifted by the %. So the 1.2 row now becomes 0.96 on a 20% scale, and so on. (1.2 * 0.8 = 0.96). Copy the 1.2 row directly to the .96. For this, you can use excel or another open tune with the same values and copy everything top to bottom or bottom to top, whichever is easier for you.
Just make sure you retune everything with caution getting the AFR's and verifying everything is good before flooring it lol. I've heard the idle tables don't seem to be affected by scaling all that much, as in they don't respond well to the % change. So the BRAF table you can leave alone, as well as the other idle air tables. All other air tables, anywhere you see something with g/s or the like, select all and multiply it by the scale you want.
#93
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#98
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Well in your defense, your sticky is much more detailed lol. I was just brushing over it real quick lol. But it is beginning to look like a scaling tutorial is in the future. There have been more than a few requests for one. I will probably reference your sticky a few times since it's been a while, and I also cannot actually write a vehicle unless I start messing with my Tahoe, which is issued to me, and not really mine.. LOL. I already kind of did start messing with it, but not to that extent. I also learned a while back that the motorpool here has a Tech II now, so every time I take it for their service I reset it to stock. They haven't said anything, but I think they know.
#100
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Well in your defense, your sticky is much more detailed lol. I was just brushing over it real quick lol. But it is beginning to look like a scaling tutorial is in the future. There have been more than a few requests for one. I will probably reference your sticky a few times since it's been a while, and I also cannot actually write a vehicle unless I start messing with my Tahoe, which is issued to me, and not really mine.. LOL. I already kind of did start messing with it, but not to that extent. I also learned a while back that the motorpool here has a Tech II now, so every time I take it for their service I reset it to stock. They haven't said anything, but I think they know.
YES a scaling video would be much appreciated!