Is this normal for a VE table?
I should have saved the scans so I could go back and review. I might just start over.
Here's my VE table
Here's my VE table
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Keep in mind, when the PCM is in a cell, it's not just reading THAT one particular cell. It's taking reading from the surrounding cells also.
I think that "wonky" shaped VE tables are sometimes OK, if that's what the engine wants, that what it wants. Spikes not so much.
Just my .02.
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If you gather enough data, the noise averages out and you get smoother data.
If you don't get enough data, you can see the noise in the data.
If you use noisy data to edit your tables, the shape of the table reflects the noise in the data.
I smooth stuff out.
How about this... Is there any NEGATIVE effect to smoothing the VE table?
The spots I pointed to are just from bad data, like NSFW said. The first arrow on the left you see 91,77,81 @45kPa which is impossible for the engine to want 91%VE at 2400rpm then at 2800rpm want 77% then want 81% at 3600rpm all at 45kPa. Its a alot easier on a dyno with load cell to get smooth data but it can be on the street with smoother throttle, filters and a higher cell count. Just by adding couple basic filters like 0 tps, below coolant temp 160, paste and multiply by 50%, and minimum cell count 100 it would automatically start smoothing out your ve table. Those filters where examples just to give you an idea. A picture perfect VE where someone clicks the smooth button five time isnt right either IMO.
Now I will say, if your new or newish to tuning, in order to get those cells filled with good data, you need to learn to street tune. You need to be extremely sensitive with the throttle both in and out of the throttle, use good filtering to remove bad data from say, deceleration, or changes in tps greater than "x"%, or big map swings, and also set your minimum amount of cell hits required way up.
It takes a great amount of time, to get a really good, smooth, correct data set. This is why most guys really don't find "good" tuners. People think a $400 or $500 tune is outrageous, but on a modified combo, to get it right, and I mean cold start, tip in, shift points, ECT, it can take days of adjusting, logging, changing, chasing issues.
Now there are tuners who can whack a good number out of a tune, but if you want drivability, good cold starts, crisp tip in ECT, it's time and experience that gets results.
Yep, in AZ. Last time I was home to go was 7 years ago. Changed jobs in Dec so I am not traveling all of the time.
Last edited by FCar2000TA; Feb 26, 2022 at 09:14 AM.
Now I will say, if your new or newish to tuning, in order to get those cells filled with good data, you need to learn to street tune. You need to be extremely sensitive with the throttle both in and out of the throttle, use good filtering to remove bad data from say, deceleration, or changes in tps greater than "x"%, or big map swings, and also set your minimum amount of cell hits required way up.
It takes a great amount of time, to get a really good, smooth, correct data set. This is why most guys really don't find "good" tuners. People think a $400 or $500 tune is outrageous, but on a modified combo, to get it right, and I mean cold start, tip in, shift points, ECT, it can take days of adjusting, logging, changing, chasing issues.
Now there are tuners who can whack a good number out of a tune, but if you want drivability, good cold starts, crisp tip in ECT, it's time and experience that gets results.












