Grave

iTrader: (4)

I've done some searching of this forum for related problems people been having, and have posted some questions on various other theads, but so far I haven't drawn out my whole story on the SES codes I've been having. So I thought I'd create a new thread instead of adding to an older thread that may get overlooked.

I thought I'd post my own story and maybe help out some others who may be having the same problem, as well as getting help myself!

Here's the full, complete, unabridged version...

Back in December 04 I had SLP LT's installed my my Z28. The installers fabricated their own O2 extensions, and used my stock O2 sensors. After the install, my SES light kept coming on for the following codes:

P0135: O2S Heater Curcuit, Bank 1 Sensor 1, Malfunction

P0137: O2S Circuit, Bank1 Sensor 2, low voltage

P0155: O2S Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0157: O2 Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

The I-pipe and Y-pipe were also banging horribly against the floor pan, so I took it back to the shop that installed them and asked them to fix it.

So, they loosened the header bolts, re-adjusted the Y-pipe, re-tightened the header bolts and then tightened all the clamps down on the piping.

Started it up... backfiring! Turns out the rear-most part of the passenger header wasn't seated all the way down, as you could see fire coming from the exhaust port!! So they re-loosened the passenger header, and re-tightened it back down. Fired the car up... everything seemed A-OK.

I asked them about the DTC codes coming up, and they said there wasn't much they could do about it because they didn't have any PCM editing software. They said to just keep clearing it on my Predator, that it should only be temporary, and if it comes back to let them know.

Well, after a few days of driving around, another DTC code started showing up: (in addition to the four codes listed above)

P1153: Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) insufficient switching bank 2 sensor 1

By now, I've heard about the wonders of the Bosch #13111 rear Corvette O2 sensors, and how they seemed to fix alot of problems O2 related with a header install.

I went to an exhaust shop and had them re-work my exhaust, because even after re-adjusting the headers that second time, there was still banging on the floor (although not as much... still, banging is banging, which is ANNOYING). The exhaust shop fixed all my banging problems, piece of cake.

While my car was in the exhaust shop getting worked on, I walked to the local parts store and picked up some of the 13111 sensors, and while my car was up on the lift at the exhaust shop, I had them install the sensors for me.

Got my car back... cleared all the DTC codes, and took it for a spin. So far (knock on wood), the only code that still keeps popping up is:

P1153: Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) insufficient switching bank 2 sensor 1



So, this is where I'm at right now. I've been looking for exhaust leaks on the passenger side, but so far haven't been able to hear anything. I also haven't noticed any unusual soot deposits anywhere. (although that doesn't mean there isn't a leak somewhere I haven't seen yet)

I'm going to have my car scanned today hopefully, and see if the PCM's history has anything to tell. I'm just going to drive around until the SES light pops up, then swing over to the shop and get scanned. Maybe they could tell me what's going on on that side.

But, if it isn't an exhaust leak, what would make the B2S1 throw P1153 and not B1S1?

If it's because the O2's or the exhaust gases aren't heating up fast enough, why would the drivers side be OK, and not the passenger side? And if this is infact the case, and not a leak somewhere... would header wrap take care of this, or at least help?

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I had the same code after LT's. I finally tried the Bosch 13111 O2's and the codes has not come back in over a month. I think the pass side is placed farther back then the drivers side which could be the reason. You sure had a big problem trying to get the headers/Y-Pipe installed right. I did my own with no adjustments needed. I guess I was lucky.

Good luck.

Bill

LSonederfull

The Bosch o2's completely fixed my codes, but i had sealed all header,y-pipe slip connections with hi temp. o2 safe RTV. Mine runs great, does your car run rich especially on bank throwing code?

Grave

iTrader: (4)

I think it was the way my cat-back was set up, it was kind of forcing the Y-pipe up and to the right, making it smack against the floor pan. Basically, my entire exhaust from the mufflers to the cats had to be torn apart, and re-built. But hey, it's not vibrating anymore, and that's what counts!

Man, I wish I was so lucky to have the Bosch sensors fix my problems! I'm thinking it's not working for me because the SLP LT's are a bit longer than regular LT's, and so the O2 bungs sit even further downstream then say, Hooker or Flowtech for example. That's just an amatuer guess though...

Yeah, it does seem to run rich. My exhaust reeks of richness, and my gas mileage SUCKS (I'm guesstimating about 11-12 mpg)

Grave

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE TO MY ONGOING SITUATION:


Well, now I got both sensors tripping codes. Just checked it a few days ago with the Predator and the following codes pop up:

P1153: Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) insufficient switching bank 2 sensor 1

P1133: Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) insufficient switching bank 1 sensor 1


Got the car scanned... nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Apparently the O2's were switching like they should... bouncing from low 80 mV up to 800-900 mV sometimes.

When I look at it myself with the Predator, yes, sometimes it seems a little "lazy", as in it doesn't always switch between high and low fast enough. I'm no expert or anything, but it seems to me that *sometimes* they work, and sometimes they don't.

So far, these are all the suggestions I've got on what to do about it:

1) Delete the codes out of the PCM - To me, that sounds more like a band-aid than a fix. Sure, it'll keep the SES light from popping up, but the PCM will still read the O2's as not switching properly.

2) Use header wrap to warm up the exhaust gases - I called Thunder Racing and asked them about this suggestion and they said that may not be a good idea, considering my headers were already coated. The excessive heat held in from the wraps might bake the coating and eventually warp the metals used in the headers due to heat stress.

3) Check for leaks - I've looked for leaks, and had a few other people look for leaks as well, but so far we haven't found anything

4) Get new O2 sensors - Some people rave about the Denso sensors being the "best", while some have had unsucessful results with them. I guess all brands of O2 sensors are a "hit and miss" in this situation. Maybe I'll try another brand next time I swap O2's with something other than the Bosch 13111 I currently have installed in the pre-cat positions.

5) Burnt wires - That's a negative there. No burnt wires from what I can see.

6) Check the wiring - I may have dirty connectors, or maybe there is a short somewhere. To be honest, I haven't investigated this yet.

I also read in a few places about if you have coated headers, and they're brand new, that sometimes the coating inside the headers bakes off and can screw with your O2 sensors. SLP LT's are coated, so I'm really hoping this is the case for me, because all I have to do ride it out. But knowing my luck, things won't be so easy!

Ah well... the quest continues...

americanmusl

I'm in the same boat 1133 and 1153 but my cat/cats are smelling as well and my car seems to run rich! I have Kooks 1 7/8's, high cats and X...3" to cat backs...same as you: no burnt wires, no exh leaks but did notice fuel leak on pass side tank

by the way my car is Modded C5 lS1!

Any light you can shed...greatly appreciated

Oh, are you gettting any KR?

Ed

2002anniversary

i have question i have the same problem. but doesnt the senser one mean they are your front sensors that are messed up. therefor how does the corvette rear sensors help out replacing the sims.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I used the rear vette sensors on the front. I removed the rear O2's with edit.
They worked for me. I went through a number of things before trying the vette sensors.

Bill

Grave

iTrader: (4)

This may help, for those of you with the same problem.

I posted this same question in my LS1 group on MySpace, and a guy named Alex provided a pretty detailed answer, and it seems to make sense.

Read it here

Matt00SS

iTrader: (5)

Just a word of warning... when my car was throwing the 1153 or 1133 codes it would not stay in closed loop. I would start the car, go through normal warmup, the car would switch to closed loop and then go back to open loop a few minutes later after it detected the o2 sensor malfunction. I was able to see this occur on my ls1 scanmaster. I think I replaced both 02 sensors twice before I stopped getting these codes. I"ve been code free for about a year now. Hope this helps, Matt